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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all....

Would appreciate some help, cause Im stumped.

Figured out my overly rich situation and fixed it...now the engine wont stay running.

Engine will fire quickly, before I let off the button even, but wont stay running at all...wont take throttle and I cant keep it running by feathering the throttle.

Checked for vacuum leaks(none), power valves are good as best as I can tell, timing has been tried and checked from 38 btc to 54 btc...Ive got fuel pressure, spark, and air...valves are all set at .019 on the intake and .021 on the exhaust...poly locks are not coming loose.

Tried the idle mixture screws in every configuration.

Have full power and voltage, good body/frame/engine grounds in 2ga wire....everything else crimped/soldered/heat shrinked.

Plugs where wet from a previous rich condition...dried off, re-gapped to .040, and reinstalled.

Im stumped...tried it all....This car does NOT want to be on the road this year for some reason....I would appreciate any and all insight.

Combo has run before I tore it apart and is as follows:

-331ci
-9.5-10:1 comp ratio
-Herbert solid cam @.50 235/245, .501/.510
-Pro-topline heads 2.02/1.60/ 200cc/ 64cc
-Edelbrock street tunnel ram w/ felpro 1206 gaskets.
-2X Holley 1850 carbs with connected vac sec, 66 main jets, 50cc pumps, 34 nozzles.
-1 3/4 hooker super comp headers w/ junk flowmasters
- -8 fuel lines with victor fuel pump regulated to 5.5 psi.
-MSD 7al2 ignition with mallory unilite dizzy

Please and thank you
God bless
-Shred
 

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X2 on the coil/distributor. Also sure does sound like may be a vacuum leak as well. I know you said you checked it but I'm not sure you can be truly positive that it doesn't have one since it won't run very long.
 

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even with a HUGE vacumm leak he should be able to keep it running, unless it has a HUGE hole in the intake......

Maybe coil or you are losing 12 volts to the ingition when you let off the button......you using a msd box???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright....So the engine runs now..apparently you can blow a power valve without a backfire....or they where just leaky from sitting...So I plugged em just in case...gotta get an actual vacuum reading too.

Got that fixed...got the timing set to 38...Now it overheats suddenly!!!....WTF!.

At least it started...gonna yank the Stat....plugs look great now, exhaust stopped glowing red too...Still got a LOUD backfire on the passenger side 3 seconds after the engine is off.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Im no expert but that seems like a couple degrees too much timing. Maybe back it down a couple degrees and see how the motor likes it?
 

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Am i reading this correct "2x 1850 holley carbs".....on a 331?!?!
 

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most sbf ive worked on like yours really only like 31-34 degrees of timing , even 2 600 carbs i feel is alot of induction for this type of motor, i think a single 750 would be way better off but thats my 2 cents
 

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DESCRIBE WONT STAY RUNNING.
You say it will start, but wont stay running. Will it idle if you just spin it over? When/how does it die? Are you pumping pedal then start button? or no pedal then start button? Do you have to give alot of pumps to make it start?

what is the light on the 7al 2 doing when it starts and when it dies?

I could go on, but it would be easier if you gave some more clues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Engine runs now but overheats

Engine will run and stay running now..plugs look great...but another problem has come up.

Engine temperature suddenly spikes after about 3 minutes of running...maintaisn thermostat temp (180) until it spikes to 260 like the gauge was grounded out and pukes all the coolant out (within 10 seconds).

Ive got bypass holes drilled in the thermostat, coils in the upper and lower hoses, 60/40 water/afz mix, Taurus cooling fan, 2 core aluminum radiator, 16psi cap, 1:1 pulley ratio.

Gonna pull the thermostat when i get a chance and run it with just a restrictor and see if that helps....I did boil that stat before i put it in and it opened...but I have bad luck with thermostats.

Also gotta chase a few gushing oil leaks.

Thanks for the advice.

God bless
-Shred
 

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Also, you mentioned earlier that you plugged the power valve(assuming you did both carbs) off. With the timing at 38 and no power valves I gotta believe that you might be very lean. I know you said the plugs looked good but I'm still wondering about how lean it might be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Plugs have a light carbon ring around the base of the plug, the ground strap shows no errosion or wear and the ceramic insulator is white...almost like new...maybe a slight cream color to it...no speckling or spots to indicate detonation...although Ive never had it under a load....cant hear alot over the lifters and the exhaust.

I am going to put power valves back in as soon as I can get it to run reliably enough to take a consistent vacuum reading.

Gotta fix the overheating and oil leaks first though...probably am lean...do have a bit of a stumble on throttle....probably because I have so much throttle opening at the moment to keep the idle up.

On a brighter note...the headers quit glowing red.

Never had an air pocket problem in a SBC, thought they had an internal bypass...?...it does sound like air though.

God bless
-Shred
 
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