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Confused Racer
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the black oxide socket heads are usually grade 8. no matter 4 bolts mounted in shear grade 5 should be fine.
 

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Use NAS/AN bolts with a longer shoulder and shorter thread and use fine thread with nylon jam nuts. You dont want the threads of any bolt taking the load, ALWAYS the shoulder. And why use grade 5 crap?? Seriously, its like pennys more to get grade 8 stuff. There isnt a single grade 5 bolt on my car. Dont be a cheap ass on hardware.
 

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Use NAS/AN bolts with a longer shoulder and shorter thread and use fine thread with nylon jam nuts. You dont want the threads of any bolt taking the load, ALWAYS the shoulder. And why use grade 5 crap?? Seriously, its like pennys more to get grade 8 stuff. There isnt a single grade 5 bolt on my car. Dont be a cheap ass on hardware.

What if he is in a pinch ? Grade 5's will do, its not like its on a pro mod
 

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What if he is in a pinch ? Grade 5's will do, its not like its on a pro mod
I dont think hes in a pinch. Skimp on bolts, and reap the consequinces later. Seriously guy, were talking about a few fucking dollars! If you cant spare a few bucks on the right bolts, you have business building a racecar! Either do it right the 1st time, or dont even bother doing it.
 

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I dont think hes in a pinch. Skimp on bolts, and reap the consequinces later. Seriously guy, were talking about a few fucking dollars! If you cant spare a few bucks on the right bolts, you have business building a racecar! Either do it right the 1st time, or dont even bother doing it.

I use grade 8 but have used 5 in a pinch and it does work, at the end of the day its his car right ?
 

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I use grade 8 but have used 5 in a pinch and it does work, at the end of the day its his car right ?
Do you want to be in the lane next to him when those cheap ass bolts fail? His skimp might just cost you your life! I will never understand this shit in the racing/hot rod community. Yes, Ryan, it might work in a pinch, but whos in a pinch when 1st installing a engine plate? Its only holding the engine in place... ya know, nothing really important...
 

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Do you want to be in the lane next to him when those cheap ass bolts fail? His skimp might just cost you your life! I will never understand this shit in the racing/hot rod community. Yes, Ryan, it might work in a pinch, but whos in a pinch when 1st installing a engine plate? Its only holding the engine in place... ya know, nothing really important...
I have looked at a lot worse in the lanes next to me, lets be honest there is a lot wore shit than that some of the cars at the track were built with 2 tools a hammer and vise-grips

A single 7/16-14 grade 5 bolt will support about 6900# at 75% yield strength, a 3/8-16 grade 5 bolt will lift 5300# at 75% yield strength.
 

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waiting to make a pass!
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Use NAS/AN bolts with a longer shoulder and shorter thread and use fine thread with nylon jam nuts. You dont want the threads of any bolt taking the load, ALWAYS the shoulder. And why use grade 5 crap?? Seriously, its like pennys more to get grade 8 stuff. There isnt a single grade 5 bolt on my car. Dont be a cheap ass on hardware.
THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

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In the shop with my Vette
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Discussion Starter #18
Do you want to be in the lane next to him when those cheap ass bolts fail? His skimp might just cost you your life! I will never understand this shit in the racing/hot rod community. Yes, Ryan, it might work in a pinch, but whos in a pinch when 1st installing a engine plate? Its only holding the engine in place... ya know, nothing really important...
I never said shit about me using grade 5. I asked about grade 8 or black oxide bolts. So where is my skimp your talking about?
 

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You guys running front motor plates, are you using grade 8's to mount them to their brackets? Or can you use a black oxide allen head that comes from the hardware store? Thanks...
Allen head or socket head bolts are grade eight at a minimum.

I'm doing mine in stainless socket head, stainless button head and stainless studs throughout. About grade eight too.

Except for rod bolts, head and main studs...:-D
 
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