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Kerosene or an after market product?

Anything easy on the seals but good at cleaning out lifters.
 

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My old man taught me back in the 60’s that kerosene or diesel (they are extremely similar) will work, but it’s best to only do in severe cases, as in a sludged engine. About a quart right before an oil change.
In these days of better oils, it shouldn’t be necessary. I stopped doing it in the 80’s...about the same time I gave up on 10w-40! LOL.
 

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Unless it's really sludged up, a quart of transmission fluid. It's high detergent and will clean out minor deposits.
If it's full of Quaker State's paraffin wax, nothing will touch it.
 

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Sea foam if you must.
 

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Unless it's really sludged up, a quart of transmission fluid. It's high detergent and will clean out minor deposits.
If it's full of Quaker State's paraffin wax, nothing will touch it.

Pennzoil was the king of paraffin sludge back in the 70’s and 80’s! Even Consumer Reports did a simple test of heating up oils in a pan to controlled (but high) temps and Pennzoil was the first to turn to varnish and sludge.

Then I think somewhere along the line Quaker State and Pennzoil merged?
 

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Amsoil makes an engine flush that does not have any solvents. So it is easy on seals and gaskets. Works very good and is the only choice for later model vehicles.
 

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Amsoil makes an engine flush that does not have any solvents. So it is easy on seals and gaskets. Works very good and is the only choice for later model vehicles.
“...and is the only choice for later model vehicles”

You drink the kool-aid, stay away from the brown acid.
 

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I've heard of shops draining all the engine oil out and filling it up with diesel fuel and letting it run at an idle for 8 hrs or so for a flush. This was on the newer cylinder drop engines. When it would only pick certain cylinders to drop it would gum up the lifters.
If you decide to do this do not rev it up. Just leave it at idle.

Mike
 

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We all have used and/or tried all of the methods and products described so far at some point in time with varying degrees of success.
Engine oil has changed and improved constantly over the years and the oils that we use today are way different then back in the day when everyone had 10W40 in their street cars and either straight 50W or 20W50 in their race cars.
Just like engine oils have improved so have the products to clean a sledged up engine.
BG Products made a product for VW/Audi for their 1.8 turbo engines that were sludging up and blowing up because they had the oil change interval out to far. The product and the machine BG created for them became a required special tool at every VW and Audi dealership and it worked amazingly well.
BG has since upgraded those chemicals to where now you don't need a machine so this would be the best thing that you can use if you are trying to remove sludge.
https://www.bgprod.com/services/engine-oil-services/dynamic-engine-restoration-service/
Sludge or as Toyota calls it "oil gelling" comes from lack of frequent enough oil changes.
Good Luck
Dave
 

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We all have used and/or tried all of the methods and products described so far at some point in time with varying degrees of success.
Engine oil has changed and improved constantly over the years and the oils that we use today are way different then back in the day when everyone had 10W40 in their street cars and either straight 50W or 20W50 in their race cars.
Just like engine oils have improved so have the products to clean a sledged up engine.
BG Products made a product for VW/Audi for their 1.8 turbo engines that were sludging up and blowing up because they had the oil change interval out to far. The product and the machine BG created for them became a required special tool at every VW and Audi dealership and it worked amazingly well.
BG has since upgraded those chemicals to where now you don't need a machine so this would be the best thing that you can use if you are trying to remove sludge.
https://www.bgprod.com/services/engine-oil-services/dynamic-engine-restoration-service/
Sludge or as Toyota calls it "oil gelling" comes from lack of frequent enough oil changes.
Good Luck
Dave
I agree with everything (and said so in post #6) except “improved constantly” LOL. The cutbacks on ZDDP were far from improvements for us flat tapped crowd!
 

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op loves the cock
 

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Boy did Toyota have a Bigg problem late 90s to early mid 2000s
Kept us very busy. And actually paid as you broke your butt to fix the junk.
 

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Boy did Toyota have a Bigg problem late 90s to early mid 2000s
Kept us very busy. And actually paid as you broke your butt to fix the junk.
The most reliable car I’ve ever owned is a 1997 4 runner. 18 years, 160k, bought as a salvage vehicle for cheap. Got hit again 4 years ago, salvage x2. Still running.

1 starter, 1 pinion bearing, 1 radio antenna. That’s it, other than normal consumables.
Never had the valve covers or intake off.
 

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Was not part of that program.
Camrys, siennas avalons 4 and 6 cylinders.

Earlier 4runners got head gaskets on v6s
Did ton of them. 2 different groupings and eras.
Yours may have been done previous to you getting it.
 
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