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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, curious how you do a break in on the dyno? Never had one of my engines on the dyno, much less broke one in on the dyno, curious what your procedure is?

How long do you run on initial start?
Do you cut filter apart after initial heat phase?
Dump oil before making any hard pulls?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks
Kevin
 

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I like IceCream
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Kevin.............who's dyno are you running on??? I think you are just down the road.
 

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Does he have a program that he runs to break in engines. This last one that Tom in NC did for me, I took some video of the break in, if you'd like I can send it to you, but really it is just lower rpm loading and unloading.

I used to dyno down in Middleton Wi.........real nice setup Stuska. Take care fella.........looks like 1/8 mile racing at WIR again for a little while.......:(
 

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Every time I get one done after a freshen up or new build they fire it up, warm it up a little and hit it. Reher's drains the oil afterwards so I wind up with new oil after dyno time but I've had other places leave it in and I change it after the first weekend of racing. Otherwise nothing special.
 

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In the shop I help out in we normally fire a motor up, #1 check for good oil pressure then check for leaks and set the timing. If it is a hydraulic or flat tappet cam we run a break process. If a roller we run it till the oil is warm, then let it cool down and start pulling from there.
On every motor we do what we call a get aquainted pull meaning we run short pull version by lowing the final yupper RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys.

So you don't dump the oil after 1st heat phase?

I know when we broke the last one in at home, we heat cycled in garage, then went to track and made a handful of passes before changing oil...

Kevin
 

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We start them up, check that all is good, and set timing. Get oil and water temp to 160+ and make a short pull. If everything is cool we start making tuning pulls from there. We will ship it with the break in oil for the first weekend of racing. We have a Oberg on the return and we check the filter too.
 

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Thanks guys.

So you don't dump the oil after 1st heat phase?

I know when we broke the last one in at home, we heat cycled in garage, then went to track and made a handful of passes before changing oil...

Kevin
If you run a System One oil filter and feel more comfortable, drop the filter and look inside then just add make up oil. We normally don't drain the oil till we are done.
 

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Beer me!!
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Every time we've had one on the dyno, we just bring the RPM up to about 2000, and let it run for 15 to 20 minutes, just like you would in a car. I've never heard of loading the motor while breaking in on the dyno. Not to say it isn't good, I've just never heard of people doing that. We usually run some kind of break in oil, remove inner spring on dual valve springs, and run it. Then after the break in, drain oil, put springs back in, and sometimes cut the oil filter apart to see what it looks like. We've had pretty good luck doing this, I suppose everyone has their own ideas on how to do it. No "wrong" way I guess.
 

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On every motor we have had on the dyno we normally start it up check for leaks, timing, and what not. Then bring it up to around 2500 rpm and load it untill it falls about 500 rpm give or take, hold it for a few seconds then unload it. We repeat this for the better part of 15 min. We then kill the motor and let it cool down and make a series of short pulls to verify every thing is in good working order. We usually check the filter, and lash, after the short pulls while letting it cool once again. Its your descretion weither you change the oil at this point or not but we then start making full pulls. Quite lengthy process and im sure their are many other methods but this is what we have used for all of our engines for years and has worked well for us. Hope this helps.
 

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Similar to others. I usually get it running and use the 20 minute cam break in - or warm up for rollers - to set timing, look for leaks, check oil pressure, listen for bad noises, and generally stress out. I try to get some moderate load on the engine to seat rings, and vary the RPM every so often.

After to 20 minutes is up we'll do a little "kissy" pull just to see if it'll take an acceration load and if the fuel is going to be safe - maybe 2500-4000 RPM. After that we shut it down. Change/add springs, set lash, fix & adjust anything we saw funky, and cut the filter. Back together & we go for an intermediate warm up pull just to verify that life is still good - then we beat the snot out of it.
 

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I've never heard of loading the motor while breaking in on the dyno. Not to say it isn't good, I've just never heard of people doing that.
Loading the engine during the process helps break-in the rings. During normal cam/lifter break-in procedures, the rings get run time but no actual "break-in". Really no different that break-in while in the vehicle. The car/truck should be taken out and driven "spiritedly" but not as if it were stolen. This is to help seat the rings.
 

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Dynoed a friends 588 bbc yesterday,cranked it checked timing. Varied the rpm from 1800 to 2500 until oil and water temp were up, loaded the motor a few times and started making pulls.Not a max effort piece basically a bracket motor,profiler heads and intake,pro systems carb, and cam under 800 lift it made 962hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the information guys. I have to speak with the guy running the show and see what his program is. I just like to at least have an idea of what the process is before going in.

I'm switching to synthetic oil after break in, and I've often heard it's best to leave the conventional oil in for a bit before making that switch?

Kevin
 

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I have taken many motors off Steve Schmidt's dyno over the years--he makes dyno pulls with normal oil--we then usually make one pass on the racetrack before we put in race oil--Royal Purple.
 

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I'm switching to synthetic oil after break in, and I've often heard it's best to leave the conventional oil in for a bit before making that switch?

Kevin
I've done that several times...no less than 8. I've never switched with less than 8 power pulls on the engine. For some reason I like 10-12 pulls on the engine, just feels better to me.

I've never seen less than 8 hp going to syn the most I've seen is 15. Typcall has been 10-12 hp. ( 20-50 to 20-50 oil )

G-
 
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