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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed brand new Biondo electric shifter with a Shiftnoid solenoid mounted to the shifter and a Biondo RPM-1 digital shift timer. Everything works perfect on jackstands. However, this weekend when at the track it somehow was shifting to 2nd immediately when I left the line! I'm wondering if there is some kind of interference going on with the transbrake, nitrouse system, etc... I have my system wired so that the WOT switch is killed while on the transbrake button and then activated as soon as the button is released. At the line the transbrake works so I know the shifter and trans is in low but as soon as it launches its mysteriously in high gear and makes a high gear only pass. I cannot duplicate this problem while in the shop though. I can activate my nitrous system and activate the WOT switch while on the button. Release button and I hear the nitrous solenoids click but shifter doesn't shift:confused: Anybody got any clue what might be going on??????? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.....
 

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i had a very similar problem caused by spark scatter in my dist,rotor was arcing to 3 screws holding the cap base down,put in nylon screws and the problem went away
 

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Is there a reason that you have your RPM-1 switch on your WOT switch? That unit will not shift until the set point is reached so let it have power all the time. This will also isolate it from the nitrous solenoids and avoid any spike in voltage.
Do you run a MSD 2 step or 3 step rpm control?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a reason that you have your RPM-1 switch on your WOT switch? That unit will not shift until the set point is reached so let it have power all the time. This will also isolate it from the nitrous solenoids and avoid any spike in voltage.
Do you run a MSD 2 step or 3 step rpm control?

I don't have my RPM-1 switch on my WOT switch. I may have not worded everything right. I was just mentioning the WOT switch wondering if maybe it was somehow interfering. I have a switched 12V stud inside the car. The WOT switch, nitrous relays and solenoids, MSD, and electric shifter all branch off of this switched 12V stud. My thoughts were that maybe since I had so much stuff branching off this one stud maybe one of the other components was somehow screwing up the shifter. I'm thinking I might need to wire the RMP-1 box directly to the battery and put it on a toggle switch. I don't know, this whole thing has got me bad confused. I've never run into anything puzzling like this before.......
 

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I had an interference issue when I 1st got an electric shifter. I ran the relay off my 7-3 box.
The engine started running ragged, & the shifter was inconsistent. Also had crank trigger. I ended up buying window switch,
put filter on the power in, so the ignition could not have any effect. Engine ran normal, & shifter shifted exact every time.
Your's sound more like a back feed or wrong circuit since it's consistently shifting at the same spot. Good luck.

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It was the way I read it but it's all good.
Some things to double check.
a. All connections are tight and more importantly have good gound.
b. If you have a good multi-meter check the current load and make sure you have big enough gage wire to handle it. Long runs on small gage = voltage drop.
c. Try a run without the NOS powered, this way you can isolate some things.
d. If it still happens check cap, rotor, plug wires for arcing.
e. voltage during a run, I am not sure about the Biondo box but MDS told me things get crazy if voltage drops under 11 vdc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've checked all that stuff so far and everything is good. I've got 10 guage wire to everything. Haven't checked the voltage with a meter yet but I will. I've got a 16V system so I should be in good shape on voltage. I checked and all the components are compatible with 16V. I will do some testing on a pass with the NOS off sometime. I've got a race this weekend and can't really trial and error test there. Just gonna shift it manually this weekend and hopefully figure something out after that. With only 2 qualifying passes I don't want to have to abort a run if at all possible.
 

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Please keep us updated on this. I'm in the same boat. I went out this weekend for the first time running the Biondo RPM-1 rpm switch and dedenbear electric shift solinoid. It shifted as soon as I released the TB button also. I set it to shift at 3500 and it did perfect in the pit area, but I set it at a 6800 shift point and it shifted when I rev'd it to 5000 in neutral a few times. I assumed it was my OBD2 signal from my PCM since it's on a 2001 Camaro.

I too had to remove it and shift manually.

I'll let you know what I find if I get it figured out also.
 

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I spoke with a guy at Digital Delay, the manufacturer of the RPM 1shift controller and he said my problem was probably due to vibration or shock within the car at the launch since I was using the NC to fire the shift solinoid. He said the contact springs inside the controller are not real rigid and can make contact under a shock load situation like a wheel stand or TB launch.

He recommended using a Bosch relay to reverse the current and use the NO out put to fire the shift solinoid. He said it was a common problem and that has fixed each problem that he has seen.

That's fine and dandy, but I have no inkling how to wire in a Bosch relay like he is describing.

Can someone offer a drawing showing the wiring diagram needed to accomplish this? The original install is cake even for a green horn like myself, but he lost me at relay.lol.

Thanks guys!
 
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