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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for a good source for a good steady state switch/solenoid that I can use to do a remote battery cut off without having to run 70# of battery cable from the battery up front to the switch in the rear and then back.

Thanks!
 

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Drag Week Survivor
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If the battery is under the hood you do not need a cut off switch.

If you want a switch for safety sake. Just add a switch under the hood and run a morse cable to the rear of the car. The solenoid needed to handle the load would consume a good amount of amps while on.
 

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Looking for a good source for a good steady state switch/solenoid that I can use to do a remote battery cut off without having to run 70# of battery cable from the battery up front to the switch in the rear and then back.

Thanks!
More details of what you are doing would be ......wellll.......pretty damn helpful. Then go find the "does it meet tech" battery cutoff thread
 

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When I had my battery up front (in the stock spot), tech told me I needed a cutoff at 9.99 / 135mph. I didn't have a cut off at that point (didn't think I needed one as Honk mentioned).

I moved it to the back anyway, so I never looked it up. Just sharing what I was told. Take it for what its worth.
 

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Drag Week Survivor
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When I had my battery up front (in the stock spot), tech told me I needed a cutoff at 9.99 / 135mph. I didn't have a cut off at that point (didn't think I needed one as Honk mentioned).

I moved it to the back anyway, so I never looked it up. Just sharing what I was told. Take it for what its worth.
Yes. Just opened the book. 9.99/135 mph.

I'd just use a morse cable to a switch up front.

In my opinion, having a solenoid hot all the time is not a good solution and it introduces another component that can fail at the worst time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Both post 19 and 24 in this thread are doing what I am trying to accomplish I am just wondering what type of continuous duty solenoid they are using and where they got them from.
I would PM the poster and see what he runs.........

I use a 250amp continuous duty solenoid mounted within inches of my battery... (behind cab in bed area)
I ran my battery cable from the battery to the "hot side" of the solenoid, then off the other to my main distribution block inside my truck, where the starter solenoid gets its power from...
I then ran a 10ga wire from the "hot side" to the rear of the the truck to a 50amp push/pull switch mounted in my taillight area, then to inside my cab to my gauge panel to another push/pull switch and back to the solenoid to energize it...
Both switches must be on (pulled) for the truck to have power, but either will kill it...

Saves a lot of weight on battery cable!
I also use RJ Race Cars light weight cable...
The vast majority of continuous duty solenoids have fairly low contact amperage ratings. Part of the reason is the coil itself. Part of a contact rating is the PRESSURE on the contacts. Starter solenoids have more pressure and that in part is why they are NOT rated for continuous.........because they have a "big strong" coil that is not designed for continuously energized.
 

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Call Gil at Speedwire in Canada he sells exactly what u need ,I use them all the time from him
A little pricey but has never failed me yet
I believe these can handle 500 amps continuously and over 1000 amp spikes
Saves a lot in weight
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Call Gil at Speedwire in Canada he sells exactly what u need ,I use them all the time from him
A little pricey but has never failed me yet
I believe these can handle 500 amps continuously and over 1000 amp spikes
Saves a lot in weight

That looks like the piece. Thanks!
 
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