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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've bought a lot if new sheet metal from Real Deal Steel, which is all from Golden Star. The parts all come with the black EDP coating.

I'm not too concerned about the surfaces that are hidden, or not exposed to the elements, but can I scuff the exterior surfaces and go directly over it with a 2K primer or epoxy, or should I take it down to the bare metal?

I'm not running inner fenders on the front, and really didn't want to spend a lot of time on the inside surfaces of the front fenders. Was thinking I would scuff them, prep them and spray the insides with DP90 and leave it at that.

Thanks
 

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1968 Camaro Z28, 1933 Chevy Coupe, 2004 Silverado Z71, 1946 Chevy PU, 2000 Custom Harley Davidson
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The first question to be asked is is it truly actual E Coat?

True Electrostatic Coating is a rust inhibiting coating and it sticks to bare metal extremely well. It is what you are trying to mimic when you spray your bare metal surfaces with epoxy primers.

The test is to use a urethane grade reducer and wipe a spot. True E Coat will not soften and end up on your rag. If it does, it should be removed and the panel should be epoxied.
 

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1968 Camaro Z28, 1933 Chevy Coupe, 2004 Silverado Z71, 1946 Chevy PU, 2000 Custom Harley Davidson
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As far as whether or not to sand/scuff the E Coat prior to applying your 2K urethane primer, that depends on the primer manufacturer's recommendations.

Most will recommend scuffing but Spies Hecker will tell you "absolutely not", because any sanding or scuffing of the E Coat compromises the coating and destroys the rust inhibiting aspects of the coating.

They require just a good cleaning with wax and silicone remover (Pre-Clean Solvent), then apply the primer directly over it. It took me some convincing when I started using Spies products, but sure enough, it sticks like glue, never peels, even when taped on after painting to do two tones or graphics, and we've never had a comeback from adhesion issues.

Most other paint manufactures will suggest scuffing the E Coat, even though it compromises the integrity of the coating, because their primers will not adhere completely without the abraded surface.

Another note is, no paint manufacturer will recommend sanding E Coat and painting directly over it without priming first. E Coat is simply a shipping primer, that sticks extremely well to bare metal and inhibits rust,...paints do not stick to it, no matter how it's sanded or prepared. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds great, guys. As I was saying, I really didn't want to take the inner side of the fenders down to metal. The inner surfaces around the headlights are not going to be easy to prep.
 
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