For those running a dump valve: Is this a kit from a trans builder? Or did you create your own? Care to share how these are plumbed? I have heard of some that don't dump much, and others that really allow the engine to spool quickly.
I have two, one that dumps all the cooler circuit to the pan that if needed would help spool. And another that has a regulator from Hutch that keeps the cooler pressure at 75psi or lower. The one with the regulator is on from the burnout until the return road.
Great to know. Thank you!
I don't think the dump valve will help me build additional boost with this converter, as I come right up to the two step quickly anyhow. But this might be a future addition. The money that some of the kits cost is kinda crazy.
Another question about using these for stall spooling: Are the lights more consistent if you stop dumping BEFORE you release the trans brake? I am wondering if the changing fluid flow could introduce inconsistencies in the leave and reaction time if you don't get that out of the way before tb release? I guess I am more interested in the dump valve than I thought!
Yes, as soon as it's making enough power to get up on the converter kill the solenoid. While it's dumping you are creating heat and reduced lubrication in the converter.
Yes, as soon as it's making enough power to get up on the converter kill the solenoid. While it's dumping you are creating heat and reduced lubrication in the converter.
They are dumping on the cooler side so converter flow isn't affected, up if anything from the greater delta across the converter when it is open
They are wasting primary lube oil to the pan though. And if on the pre cooler side, dumping nuclear oil out of the converter into the pan without cooling
I understand that the cooler line dump is on the outlet side of the converter. However if they are not starving the converter how is it going to loosen up the stall speed??
Putting it on the cooler line isn't changing the charging circuit, it is changing the exhaust circuit
Glide converter fluid path=
Valve body > case > pump > converter (between converter snout ID and pump stator tube OD) > out converter to pump ( between stator tube ID and input shaft OD) > cooler outlet on case > cooler > cooler return on case > pump > rear of input (at this point it is your primary lube circuit
The actual converter feed is a fixed orifice at a fixed line pressure
The lube circuit after coming back from the cooler is a restriction.....
The dump on the cooler line is making a parallel dump directly back to the pan..... Removing the restriction
Hence converter pressure drops .... But actual flow through converter increases
Tighter converter in, and now refining my staging and starting line method. I have the mentioned solenoid above. What size hoses are appropriate? It looks like we dump back to the pan. Do I T into one of the trans cooler lines? Which one?
Or, anyone have a picture or diagram?
I have a set of D3 heads that I'm looking to use in a turbo build. The heads were a test set for an offroad team. Originally set up for a hyd roller with solid steel non adjustable rockers. The intake valves are 7mm and the exhaust valves are 5/16. Will these valves live in a boosted combination?
Just ordered a new set of heads for my setup and swapping over from hydraulic to a solid setup with T&D shaft rockers.. Was going to get a set of Black Mambas, but they don't make them in .875.. What would be a good lifter for a high rpm, twin turbo setup? What are you guys using?
Here's the...
A forum community dedicated to drag racing drivers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about racing, builds, pro mods, hot rods, events, turbos, nitrous, superchargers, and more!
AndreesZ · updated 
chevyguy3 · updated 
AZradialcrew13 · updated 
Growler · updated 
