I drilled out steel wheels using a stepped bit for 5/8 studs. I'm wondering if you could use the stepped bit as a shallow starter hole so it does not rattle at the top of the hole. I did try using a bit for wheel spacers, and that was the problem I had.
Bumping this up to see if anyone else has drilled wheels out. Looking at changing wheels for a more Nostalgia look and the wheels are conical seat. Would like to drill for .500 length shank and 1/2 lug nuts. Thinking of using a reamer on a mill.
I've drilled rims for 11/16 shank lug nuts, I use a .703 drill. You can use a reamer too but you should drill 1/32 under finish size first, reamers are not intended to remove large amounts of material, just finish the hole accurately and smooth. Mill is the hot setup to drill them with the large table and abilty to run slower rpm. Really easy to chatter the drill and end up with an oblong and oversize hole if you try to open up an existing hole with a drill running to much rpm. Run under 250 rpm,
Definitely possible but first I would figure out how thick the wheel would be after machining for the washer and look at the thicknesses of other wheels to compare it to first. JMO
Aukai; I have wondered about this as well but have been hesitant to because the backside is not typically flat as I believe this is to provide somewhat of a spring to keep it tight; I could be wrong on that tho but it makes sense when you look at lug nut torque differences between steel and aluminum wheels. Also, what did you do to the front side of the wheel for the washer to seat against; possibly machine the washer for clearance?
NovaMan, I’m using I believe Wheel Vintiques steel wheels meant for 7/16” studs with 1/2” studs with no modifications. More bearing surface for the conical lug nuts would be great but no issues and they don’t appear too compromised. FWIW right or wrong...
I dont know the reason that you want to drill the wheels out, but on a set of aluminum wheels I had, I used lug nuts that are called ET Conical seat lug nuts. They have a mag shank and a conical seat. The shank helps to center the wheel, and give move thread engagement.
I have just had to swap from the pbr 29.5x10.5 to the Hoosier 29.5x10.5 CO7 due to no new pbr 's in Australia .
I have retained the same shock settings , and found the Hoosier likes more psi . Gone from 19 1/4 (pbr) to 24psi , stopped improving @ 24
The issue I have is the Hoosier is simply...
I’m about switch from Hoosier 275/60/15 DR2s to the captioned 28x10.5/15 biased ply slicks and wanted to hear from anyone who may have ran this slick on their C6 or if anyone has done a comparison of them to a 28” drag radial on an auto trans car.
The reason for the switch is that traction is...
From a strictly traction standpoint on a 12" rim which is the better tire? From my research it seems they are the same compound and construction but with the R having more tread cuts. My initial thought is that it's larger size would more than make up for the additional tread voids. Thoughts?