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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I need your opinions. I sold my diesel pulling truck. I want to do Drag Week 2013. I was lucky enough to ride along twice during with Mike Wood during Drag Week. I had a blast.

I want to run Daily Driver which 10.8 max ET. Then bump to Street Small Block Power Adder the next year. 8.50 max ET .

I bought a 2003 GMC Sonoma regular cab short bed . It is about as light as they came in 2003. Manual locks, windows, seats, rubber floors.

My plan is to swap to LQ4/4L80e using a Current Performance Harness so I can use a GM LS1B ECM to run the engine and trans while keeping the factory dash, and AC functioning. The GM ECM should be fine for running 10s. Later on I would like to piggy back in a BS3 or Holley Dominator when I switch to SB PA.

My power adder is PTE billet 82MM turbo had made for my puller but did not sell with the truck.

One of first things I will be doing is putting in a 8.50 legal cage. Most likely use a S&W 10 point kit.
I want run a 9 inch rear end. Looking at Moser Bolt in 9 inch setup for S Blazer discs now.
Leaning towards 3.50 gear.
Am also leaning toward MT 275/50R15 for tires but I do have a set of 315s I could try to fit.
To try and keep the sleepy look I was thinking about having the stock steel wheels widened.

My dilemma starts with what to do suspension wise. Cal Tracs/ Assassin Bars and an ARB for sure in the rear. But what spring setup to use? Split monos sound great but I have told the will not hold up to a lot street driving. Also I want to haul my gear in the bed so the weight is some thing to consider also.
What to you guys think about stock two spring packs, sliders, Cal Tracs, and Ranchos?
Would the be a good street /strip setup?
Does some make a good DA shock that would hold up to that many street miles?

Now the front is where I am really uncertain. I have been drooling at the stuff on TRZs website but I am not sure what is fit for the as much street miles as I hope to do. I was thinking Drop Spindles. If I use S Blazer spindles. The ones with unit bearings I can convert to stock 4 piston calipers. I want convert to manual steering. My options are a bolt Flaming River steering box or the TRZ rack setup. Only down side that I have heard to the rack is greater turning radius. This truck is short so I don’t see this being problem. For Drag Week use what Springs and shocks? Moroso Trick Springs and Strange DA shocks.

Now on to brakes. I would like manual brakes so I can click it off at the stripe to do plug checks and still be able to stop and steer. Anybody have advise on what master cylinder to use with 4 piston discs front and rear? Strange 1.125”?

I have helped others with their Drag Week projects. This will be my first try at it. I am open to all your ideas and thoughts.


The victim

 

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On the parts I know anything about: that master cylinder sounds to big to me unless you want all pressure modulation, not pedal travel modulation, meaning you have to push like hell or not with say a 7/8's. Take a peak at new Baer drag brakes. I have added them front and rear, no issue stopping 4150# from 140's MPH.

I run Cal-Trac spli mono's on the street and have no issues for five years. 1900#'s across the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On the parts I know anything about: that master cylinder sounds to big to me unless you want all pressure modulation, not pedal travel modulation, meaning you have to push like hell or not with say a 7/8's. Take a peak at new Baer drag brakes. I have added them front and rear, no issue stopping 4150# from 140's MPH.

I run Cal-Trac spli mono's on the street and have no issues for five years. 1900#'s across the rear.
Thanks for the feed back on split monos. I will check out Baers website.

What shocks are you running in the rear?
 

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I have a $40 90's dodge mini van master from NAPA 24 or 25mm bore which is around 15/16" w/vented rotor Wilwoods all the way around. slot the mounting holes about a 1/8" per side and it bolts on to the Gm firewall and uses gm push rod. i researched a lot before buying brake stuff, my car is extreme street with lots of street miles planned.
 

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I would run mon leaf springs or the Eibach lowering springs, I have had great luch with the latter and they are cheap. I have not heard anything about durability issues with the split mono leafs. As for the front end, get yourself some TRZ arms and a bump steer kit. If you have the money, upgrade to a rack from them. Though your turning circle might suffer a little, the feel and weight savings will be much appreciates and very noticable. My truck with manual steering and all TRZ suspension can be turned with one hand in a parking lot. As for shocks, you can do a bolt in coil over and get matching QA1's for the rear or get some TRZ buckets and do any other brand you like. They all work, some better then others. The factory Blazer discs front and rear are a great upgrade over the truck stuff and are quite durable. You can do all the lowering through the lower arm if you go this route or you can grab a 2 inch belltech spindle for about 329 on ebay. If you really want to do a ton of street driving, this is a ideal set up for cost/ versatility aspect.

I assume if you have money to build the truck from scratch then you have 2 grand to do the front end once and do it right!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.

Yes Mike doing it once is the plan. I sold the truck in my avatar so I funds to do it right. I just want to be sure I am doing right.

Right now I have my list
Belltech 2" drop Blazer spindles
Blazer brakes
Del Alum bushing in uppers and lowers
Bolt in DA shock like QA1, AFCO, or Strange.
TRZ rack setup.
 

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I run TRZ uppers and lowers with a F-body ball joint in them on Drag Week for 5 years no issues at all or the TRZ rack it all works very well.
 

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The 315 will not pass the tire requirement of that class. It no longer says " Any Drag Radial" in the rules.
 

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Thanks for the feed back on split monos. I will check out Baers website.

What shocks are you running in the rear?
I'm running Double adjustable AFCO's with a mid level version of their Big Gun valving that matches the cars weight and power. FWIW the settings at the moment are 18/24 extension, 8/24 compression. The main issue is getting a shock that gives you a good range of adjust ability for your combination. There is no one size fits all shock.

The tire is the Hoosier 325/50 drag radial. I'll likely have to run a narrower tire this year at Drag Week.
 

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Thanks guys.

Yes Mike doing it once is the plan. I sold the truck in my avatar so I funds to do it right. I just want to be sure I am doing right.

Right now I have my list
Belltech 2" drop Blazer spindles
Blazer brakes
Make sure when you pick up the Blazer brakes, you are going with the ones that are two piston, knock of rotors and use the unit bearings. They work great with the factory rear discs too. They will cost you a little more (especially in the spindle, about $150 or so) but if you shop smart, you will find good deals. I have seen the factory disc set up complete for 300 bucks on ebay with spindles and all. Check a seller named s10warehouse.
 

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Johnboy, say it ain't so, switching to a gas powered truck!

I don't really have anything to add, but it sounds like a cool project! I've daydreamed about running Dragweek for a long time, especially when we ended up right there in Topeka for the world finals! If my new race truck works well then I might just put some lights on it and license it. I may also bolt a few goodies onto my Typhoon and try it one of these years.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I run TRZ uppers and lowers with a F-body ball joint in them on Drag Week for 5 years no issues at all or the TRZ rack it all works very well.
JeffMcKC said:
The 315 will not pass the tire requirement of that class. It no longer says " Any Drag Radial" in the rules.
JeffMcKC said:
Thats a VERY heavy Front end set up in that Class.
Thanks Jeff.
I will be staying with stock arms for know. Just good bushings and rack.

As for tires. I have set of 315s. I mocked them up and I did not like the way they fit at all. Much rather a 275.

But the rule reads they are legal. Daily Driver has no mention of tire limits at all. Street Race does mention tires.
STREET RACE CATEGORY.
TIRES
•Street Race cars must use tires on the dragstrip that are no greater than 11.25 inches wide at the tread,
as measured installed and on the ground with a go/no-go gauge. Tire edges may not be shaved or cut to
meet the 11.25-inch maximum. Drag radials with a metric width labeling of no greater than 325 mm may
be used if the tread width is no greater than 11.5 inches.
Mounted on my 9" wide wheel the tread is under 11.5"
But it does really matter as I dont want to use them do to poor fit.


cdmbill said:
I'm running Double adjustable AFCO's with a mid level version of their Big Gun valving that matches the cars weight and power. FWIW the settings at the moment are 18/24 extension, 8/24 compression. The main issue is getting a shock that gives you a good range of adjust ability for your combination. There is no one size fits all shock.

The tire is the Hoosier 325/50 drag radial. I'll likely have to run a narrower tire this year at Drag Week.
Thanks

Firetruck1 said:
Make sure when you pick up the Blazer brakes, you are going with the ones that are two piston, knock of rotors and use the unit bearings. They work great with the factory rear discs too. They will cost you a little more (especially in the spindle, about $150 or so) but if you shop smart, you will find good deals. I have seen the factory disc set up complete for 300 bucks on ebay with spindles and all. Check a seller named s10warehouse. Yesterday 12:07 PM
Thanks I will check that out.

MichaelP said:
Johnboy, say it ain't so, switching to a gas powered truck!

I don't really have anything to add, but it sounds like a cool project! I've daydreamed about running Dragweek for a long time, especially when we ended up right there in Topeka for the world finals! If my new race truck works well then I might just put some lights on it and license it. I may also bolt a few goodies onto my Typhoon and try it one of these years.
I was not really looking to sell the truck. One Sunday this guy showed up wanting to buy it. I never advertised it for sale. I told him what I wanted. He said he would think about it and left. Figured I would never see him again. Two days later he showed back with a truck,trailer, and big pile of cash. So here I am a Gasshole again!:)
 

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I would rethink the wisdom of going with a rack but keeping stock arms. Remember, the arms are not simply for weight but also to attain the geometry you need at speed that the stock stuff just does not give you. The steering if working correctly is quite decent well into the 120+ mph range. My arms gave me immediate and noticeable results at every speed and ever in street driving. Arms bolt on and are good to go, the rack is a fabrication project. Grab yourself a stock manual box and a bump steer kit and your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would rethink the wisdom of going with a rack but keeping stock arms. Remember, the arms are not simply for weight but also to attain the geometry you need at speed that the stock stuff just does not give you. The steering if working correctly is quite decent well into the 120+ mph range. My arms gave me immediate and noticeable results at every speed and ever in street driving. Arms bolt on and are good to go, the rack is a fabrication project. Grab yourself a stock manual box and a bump steer kit and your good to go.
Thanks
Learn something new every day. I need to call TRZ and discuss with them I guess. What your say makes sense.
 
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