[gregcreech]

Whos flare tool are you guys using to plumb foggers? The ones I am getting from the parts store aren't cutting it.

 

[jester]

ridgid 37 degree tool. I forgot the part number though, its a bit over $100. Nice tool!

 

[BBCStang]

I would just buy a "replumb" kit then the flares are already done for you.

Did you get that delay re-installed?

 

[onefast68]

i use a parker..go to hydraulic hose company and they can order you one.over 100bucks for sure

 

[Kayzen]

you don't need a double flare. you need a single flare 45*, double flare fucks everything up.

 

[racurass]

i have a hydralic one that i bought off the matco truck, nice piece, but pricey.will make all kinds of fuel line fitting, flares, etc. makes flareing the annealed stainless alot easier. x2 on the one flare.

 

[Wolf]

Get the Rigid....37*

 

[gregcreech]

Yea Kev,

I hooked my n20 back to my 7531 so that I can delay the hit. I am also installing the fogger.

What are your plans this weekend? London is racing if you wanna come up.

 

[jester]

a single flare 45.

its the wrong flare for AN. AN is 37*

 

[jester]

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Ratchet-Flaring-Tool/EN/index.htm

 

[Mod]

I use the Craftsman double flair kit, works good. the Dies are cut closer and with more precision. The trick is to thin the end of tubing with emery or a sanding wheel so that it can fold over without splitting or laying off to one side.

The 37 deg flair kits work pretty good for tight spaces,,allows for some sealing crush, use a couple wraps of teflon tape up under the flair so that when it sinches down it pulls the tape up and helps to seal better




Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.

 

[John Lowe]

Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.[/quote]

When ever I want something to be accurate with any hole saw. I drill a pilot hole first,then I install a transfer punch where the drill bit goes into the hole saw.

 

[899 coupe]

If you are using stainless steel lines then there is no need for a double flair. Just buy a quality 37 degree flair tool and single flare the lines.

 

[mike gerlach]

The 37 deg flair kits work pretty good for tight spaces,,allows for some sealing crush, use a couple wraps of teflon tape up under the flair so that when it sinches down it pulls the tape up and helps to seal better
.

WHAT? your going to use teflon tape for nitrous ? Not worried about that stuff getting into the nozzle/jet etc...??

 

[LSCMK7]

I use the rigid part# 377.
$102.00 at toolup.com

 

[Mod]

Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.

When ever I want something to be accurate with any hole saw. I drill a pilot hole first,then I install a transfer punch where the drill bit goes into the hole saw.[/quote]


The Arbor bit spun straight, the saw was wobbling,,,bad weld where they joined the saw piece to the hex piece that chucks to the arbor. Home Depot kit that gives you 5 different saws. When you plunge down to begin the saw cutting, the bit is not fluted all the way down, so it ends up being just like a transfer punch when the saw starts to cut. but with a crappy welded saw piece that wobbles, it makes no difference.