Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whos flare tool are you guys using to plumb foggers? The ones I am getting from the parts store aren't cutting it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,064 Posts
ridgid 37 degree tool. I forgot the part number though, its a bit over $100. Nice tool!
 

·
TRZ Rocks!
Joined
·
3,737 Posts
I would just buy a "replumb" kit then the flares are already done for you.

Did you get that delay re-installed?
 

·
RED ROCKET
Joined
·
8,635 Posts
i use a parker..go to hydraulic hose company and they can order you one.over 100bucks for sure
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,533 Posts
i have a hydralic one that i bought off the matco truck, nice piece, but pricey.will make all kinds of fuel line fitting, flares, etc. makes flareing the annealed stainless alot easier. x2 on the one flare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
Get the Rigid....37*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea Kev,

I hooked my n20 back to my 7531 so that I can delay the hit. I am also installing the fogger.

What are your plans this weekend? London is racing if you wanna come up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,888 Posts
I use the Craftsman double flair kit, works good. the Dies are cut closer and with more precision. The trick is to thin the end of tubing with emery or a sanding wheel so that it can fold over without splitting or laying off to one side.

The 37 deg flair kits work pretty good for tight spaces,,allows for some sealing crush, use a couple wraps of teflon tape up under the flair so that when it sinches down it pulls the tape up and helps to seal better




Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
702 Posts
Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.[/quote]

When ever I want something to be accurate with any hole saw. I drill a pilot hole first,then I install a transfer punch where the drill bit goes into the hole saw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
If you are using stainless steel lines then there is no need for a double flair. Just buy a quality 37 degree flair tool and single flare the lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,968 Posts
The 37 deg flair kits work pretty good for tight spaces,,allows for some sealing crush, use a couple wraps of teflon tape up under the flair so that when it sinches down it pulls the tape up and helps to seal better
.
WHAT? your going to use teflon tape for nitrous ? Not worried about that stuff getting into the nozzle/jet etc...??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,888 Posts
Ridgd hole saws suck ass, dont buys those,,they wobble bigtime on the arbor. Fucked up a set of new alum valve covers with those saws.
When ever I want something to be accurate with any hole saw. I drill a pilot hole first,then I install a transfer punch where the drill bit goes into the hole saw.[/quote]


The Arbor bit spun straight, the saw was wobbling,,,bad weld where they joined the saw piece to the hex piece that chucks to the arbor. Home Depot kit that gives you 5 different saws. When you plunge down to begin the saw cutting, the bit is not fluted all the way down, so it ends up being just like a transfer punch when the saw starts to cut. but with a crappy welded saw piece that wobbles, it makes no difference.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top