[The Notch]

Any one using a ford explorer hall effect cam sensor with a dominator efi, I have some clearance issues and this sensor would work great

 

[cam406406]

Try it and let us know

 

[64duece]

If you have one...I'll scope it and see what the waveform looks like.

 

[Danny Cabral]

If it's a single pulse Hall-Effect sensor, it should work fine.
If not, you can modify it, so it is (leave one existing vane/window).
A 12V Hall-Effect cam sync sensor will easily wire into the Ignition connector:
http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/199R10555rev11.pdf (See page 20.)
You can try it, then test it yourself, using the information below.

Crank & Cam Sensor Diagnostics
One of the most frustrating problems that can occur with EFI is crank and cam sensor signal issues. In order for an EFI system to operate properly, it must get proper crank and cam sensor signals. If there is a crank or cam signal issue, such as missing or extra pulses, the Holley EFI systems will show this on a datalog. If you feel that you are experiencing a crank or cam sensor problem, take an internal datalog at 100 samples per second of the problem. Add the “Diag #1” parameter to one of the datalog views and review it in the problem area. Look at the “ones” and “tens” positions of the “Diag #1” parameter. Once the engine is running, these positions should NEVER increment [increase]. If they do, it signals a crank or cam sensor signal problem. If you need help diagnosing this, it is recommended that you contact Holley Technical Support.

The crank sensor is the ones position (1st digit left of decimal point), and the cam sensor is the tens position (2nd digit left of decimal point).
FYI: Digital falling is much preferred. I've datalogged the difference on the same Hall-Effect sensor, and digital rising had errors.
NOTE: Momentary RPM Errors while cranking/starting & turning engine off, are acceptable (per Doug_F).

(Image courtesy of bigd427w @ Modern Speed)

If the data log indicates a cam/crank sensor error, I highly suggest you record a "special log" (.SL suffix) and email it to Holley Tech for analysis, so they can inform you if a sensor is malfunctioning and what it's doing wrong. It's a special high speed data log of the cam/crank signals that only Holley Tech can read with their special oscilloscope software.

With the EFI, we can do what we call a "special log" or .SL log.
This basically gives an "oscilloscope" type high speed logging of the crank and cam signals.

How to record a .SL datalog:
Click on "File" (top left corner of HEFI software) and "Global Folder Properties".
Erase "Blank Global Config" and type this code in the first line 4827KWYD2946WMNF.
Click "Save" (top left). Then record a short internal data log, and download it (key-on, "USB Link" mode).

Obviously, you must "Enable Input for Internal ECU Log" ("Basic I/O" in "System Parameters"), and wire a switch in an inconspicuous location. It can be ground activated, so it's a one wire task. Then you can data log instantaneously at any time, without a laptop in the vehicle. A necessity for diagnosing stubborn spots of a tune and/or instant data acquisition.
FYI: After recording the .SL log, remember to erase the aforementioned code in "Global Folder Properties" (click "Save"), so you can record regular internal data logs the next time you need to.
NOTE: You can simultaneously record an internal .SL data log and a regular PC (laptop) .DL data log, and email them both to Holley Tech. This way, you can review the regular .DL data log to ensure it contains the issue at hand.

 

[Mike Beck]

Danny, a year ago I tried using the GM-type of cam sync setup, not a modified distributor. It idled great in sequential mode, revved great at the trailer, sounded like an import in the burnout box, barely got down the track (20 seconds, couldn't go above 3000).

Anyway, I just looked at the logs from that eventfull pass and do see the cam errors in Diagnostic 1, but these did not always cause an RPM Error. Never saw any crank errors. That was the first and last time I ever tried that setup, it cost me a lot of money that day. It could have been self-inflicted though, like most EFI problems are, I had it set for Digital Rising.............

 

[Danny Cabral]

Personally, I prefer to use a simple single-pulse cam sync sensor type.
It's just too darn easy to convert a distributor to a cam sync:
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9009631&postcount=66

 

[gray86hatch]

Danny, a year ago I tried using the GM-type of cam sync setup, not a modified distributor. It idled great in sequential mode, revved great at the trailer, sounded like an import in the burnout box, barely got down the track (20 seconds, couldn't go above 3000).

Anyway, I just looked at the logs from that eventfull pass and do see the cam errors in Diagnostic 1, but these did not always cause an RPM Error. Never saw any crank errors. That was the first and last time I ever tried that setup, it cost me a lot of money that day. It could have been self-inflicted though, like most EFI problems are, I had it set for Digital Rising.............

Mine was the same way when I first got it going. Ended up killing the ecu. Ran it in batch fire all last year with no issues.

Tim

 

[The Notch]

Thanks Dennis, its on its way

 

[66bowtie]

Danny, a year ago I tried using the GM-type of cam sync setup, not a modified distributor. It idled great in sequential mode, revved great at the trailer, sounded like an import in the burnout box, barely got down the track (20 seconds, couldn't go above 3000).

Anyway, I just looked at the logs from that eventfull pass and do see the cam errors in Diagnostic 1, but these did not always cause an RPM Error. Never saw any crank errors. That was the first and last time I ever tried that setup, it cost me a lot of money that day. It could have been self-inflicted though, like most EFI problems are, I had it set for Digital Rising.............

Hey Mike, I just got my system running and i use the GM type cam sync. I have run it to 8500 rpm so far with no problems. I'm in the process wiring 2 stages of nitrous. Were you using nitrous when you had problems.

 

[Mike Beck]

I had problems with or without nitrous. I have too much runout in my trigger wheel and also think it may have vibrated from time to time which caused problems due to the large gap I had to run. So, if your stuff is stable to 8500 then you will have no issues.

 

[cam406406]

Got any pics of th gm part? Or part numbers. Am interested in this

 

[66bowtie]

Got any pics of th gm part? Or part numbers. Am interested in this

Correction, I'm using the efi connection unit.
1x Cam Sync Distributor

 

[66bowtie]

Part #120-00003, $125.00 at this time.

 

[Mike Beck]

That is the same piece I have. I had a hel of a time modifying it for my raised-runner heads. They have a whacky square section on it. We had to put it in a lathe to turn it down for the slip collar.

 

[66bowtie]

That is the same piece I have. I had a hel of a time modifying it for my raised-runner heads. They have a whacky square section on it. We had to put it in a lathe to turn it down for the slip collar.

I had to shim it about 1/4 in, replace the gear, and the square bracket works great

 

[Mike Beck]

You had to lift yours, I had to lower mine. I actually ordered the billet piece so I could turn it to where I needed to. The pickup plug was hitting a nitrous solenoid that couldn't be moved.

 

[66bowtie]

My block has a raised cam. Question Mike, how do you time your plate system fuel if its dry?

 

[Mike Beck]

I have a 100mS delay for my nitrous fuel delivery, seems to work perfect. No delay and you will have a rich spike, that fuel gets there instantly compared to the nitrous, especially with a direct port. If you have a really short line between the solenoid and the plate you won't need to delay the fuel as much. I have about a 10" hose.

 

[66bowtie]

Thanks for the info. I'm considering adding a plate to run ultra street.

 

[Mike Beck]

I actually setup both tubes in the place. The "fuel" side has a .047N jet in it, the "nitrous" side has a .063N jet in it. I use one or the other, never used both. I use the Direct Port in addition to the plate when I need the power for 8.90 stuff.