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I put a chrome molley roll cage in my Chevelle and got my cert yesterday. Thought I would share some of my thoughts for others.

1. I bought a tig welder and thought it would be easy since I can weld. Not so I takes time to master this type of welding.

2. I hired a welder to make the welds it took about 40hrs to install the cage.

3. On the up side tig welding does not throw sparks all over your finished car.

4 The chrome molley eats hole saws I went threw a least 12 of them.

5. We tig welded the plates to the bars then mig welded them to the frame. short of jacking up the body I don't know how you would weld the bars all the way around even using the smallest flex tig torch.

6. I put holes in the frame to slide the main hoop down into the frame for welding. Then welded them up and tiged plates to the main hoop, welded plates to frame

7. I think you could cage a car with mild steel in a weekend. save some weight some where else like seats.

8. Mild steel is the way to go on your first cage.

Thx for all your help
 

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I put a chrome molley roll cage in my Chevelle and got my cert yesterday. Thought I would share some of my thoughts for others.

1. I bought a tig welder and thought it would be easy since I can weld. Not so I takes time to master this type of welding.
TRUE

2. I hired a welder to make the welds it took about 40hrs to install the cage.
Seems about right
3. On the up side tig welding does not throw sparks all over your finished car.
TRUE
4 The chrome molley eats hole saws I went threw a least 12 of them.
if you went thought 12 hole saws your doing it wrong i might go through 2 with a 25.3, mild steel is way worse in my experiance
5. We tig welded the plates to the bars then mig welded them to the frame. short of jacking up the body I don't know how you would weld the bars all the way around even using the smallest flex tig torch.
cut holes in the floor pan to make access.
6. I put holes in the frame to slide the main hoop down into the frame for welding. Then welded them up and tiged plates to the main hoop, welded plates to frame
seems reasonable

7. I think you could cage a car with mild steel in a weekend. save some weight some where else like seats.
probably, but why not save weight with both? most guys do. resale value on a M/S car is shit.

8. Mild steel is the way to go on your first cage.
generally, yes

Thx for all your help
reply's in red
 

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I've done 2 myself and Justin is pretty well spot on. I'll say this Milwaukee holes saws are THE best, I used one True Value branded saw on my 2nd cage which is a hybrid 25.x/10 point. I'm extemely picky (to the point a professional chassis guy would kick me out of his shop) about tight fitment to the body, therefore as an amateur I have closer to 100 hours in this last one but that includes a #1 main crossmember, rear funny car style main hoop, dash bar, some extra rear suspension strengthening and tying g-body suspension into the cage.

Most mild steel cages, MIG welded I've seen need to be cut out of the car and thrown away because they pose a greater threat of impaling the driver than protecting him.
 

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Just a tip guys I was using lenox hole saws worked good then bought some from my Mac tool dealer worked just as well and big plus he said their lifetime warranty replace a couple no questions
 

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For the 6x6 plate that the cage has to land on for a subframe car... Is there anything stating that the 6x6 plate as to be on the interior side of the car?
 

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For the 6x6 plate that the cage has to land on for a subframe car... Is there anything stating that the 6x6 plate as to be on the interior side of the car?
You are talking about a car and chassis that are most likley 30 years old. Chances are that they are not rusted and pitted are not that good.
Using 6" x 6" plates on a chassis car that old is a good idea and extra insurance.And you do not have to cut that tight of a hole to drop the bars down.Good move.
 
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