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Discussion Starter #1
looking at using a ls2 block and 4.8 crank I picked up a while back. I was wondering how these have been holding up. High winding small block with some nitrous for added fun. It will be in my 99 6spd trans am.
Where did you get your pistons from? Where did you find wear when torn down? I would probably be using the lunati voodoo 6.300 connecting rods.
 

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Define high winding RPM's? What intake manifold do you plan to run?

A 3.622 stroke crank will spin to 9000rpm..... all you are doing with the 3.27" crank is giving up torque.

I bought a 358ci motor that was 4.185" bore with 3.27" stroke used in a Bonneville Salt flats top speed S10 pickup and it spun to 9000rpm+ built by Kurt Urban/Kixmiller Racing. You better have a killer set of heads and intake manifold plus oiling system to take advantage of those RPM's.

https://www.lsxmag.com/features/interviews/lsx-powered-gmc-sonoma-runs-222-mph-at-bonneville/

If you want the 3.27" stroke Magnum crank and Howard rods PM me. I put in a 4" stroke to make it a 441ci and spin it to 7500-8000rpm and gained probably 80rwtq+ in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
8000-8500 is where I was wanting to spin it. Intake I have had my eye on the Brian Tooley Racung cast intake. As for heads I have a set of ported 243s I was going to use but may get a set of AFR or TFS instead.
You sir have some amazing builds
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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if your going to do it put ported rec ports or have a set of ls7 heads redone with smaller exh valves.then id use the cid intake on it..ive thought about doing this myself but like most mention a 6.0 can turn 8k no issue if you have the right valve train and oiling system..
 

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Between us I think the Liberty Ls3 heads are the deal of the yr. $400 each 11 degrees and a good casting. The SPS haymaker .....same casting with a CNC port.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Between us I think the Liberty Ls3 heads are the deal of the yr. $400 each 11 degrees and a good casting. The SPS haymaker .....same casting with a CNC port.
Sure beats the Frankenstein heads for 4K. My ported ls6 heads flow about 315 cfm at .600 and it still amazes me how much these factory castings flow. I wish I could fit one of the CID or nice Mast intakes within my engine bay and without cutting the cowl and ditching the wipers. But that’s what I’m working with.

Is there any difference in longevity by using a h-beam vs I-beam connecting rod?
I talked with my machinist and I might be putting some 4.125 sleeves in the block too.
 

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If your engine is out, you can carefully cut out the cowl in one piece.. by making a cut across the top and continuing it underneath, then fab some brackets to it so it can bolt back in. And the wipers go back in all like standard, and work, if you ever want. I did it to my 4th gen so i can work on the engine easier when needed. Plus if i decide to run a CID intake i can un bolt the cowl and wipers and do so, but the car isn't permanently butchered and without wipers.
 

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2 years later in 2018....... cowl and wipers bolted back in and working 100%



.

Just earlier this year, cowl/wipers removed again to fit tall valve covers ..

 

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Also the cowl piece and all the wipers stuff removes a good bit of weight for when you want to race the car.

I just need a glass hood and my car should sit under 3000lbs going off of what i've removed so far. But our aussie dollar is shit and the gst/taxes and shipping something that big, make a glass hood end up 2k here, maybe even a bit over, so i'll stick to engine mods because amazon and others can ship some of the parts and they don't charge overly ridiculous.

Using eBay USA now is gone. They're adding 25% tax for aussies with their global shipping on some items, to the item price, then shipping cost on top of that. They're just conning us all.. and there's no law against it. They call it extra fees for collecting GST. GTFO. Fuck you ebay, never again unless it's a major one off impossible to purchase elsewhere item. And even then i'll think twice.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you Launch I just found where you had posted about the wipers on another forum. Looks like I can probably keep the wipers functional and run the CID so that’s the best of both for me. Now I need to tear the car down and get to performing surgery. But that’s going to be a little bit since it’s still running good with the current combo.
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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no way you will keep the wipers and run a cid intake..the cid intake is 10" tall from valley to the carb flange..they list it as 9.5" but mine was 10"



heres what a mast intake thats almost 8" tall looks like on a 4th gen.
 

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no way you will keep the wipers and run a cid intake..
Yeah the entire cowl has to go up to the windscreen for most single plane intakes.

The only way to not kill the car permanently, is like i did cut the cowl out one piece and fab it so it can bolt back in if you ever need.

But yeah you wont have the r/h wiper functional and a CID intake at the same time.

What you can do maybe ( i haven't tried this) is leave the l/h side wiper in there only which is your drivers side and figure out a way how to hook up a wiper motor to turn it. The one wiper will give enough vision for the driver. I can't remember off hand how the linkages are setup now between the two wipers i'd have to go look to see if the l/h wiper can function with the other one removed and disconnected. But from memory i think it can't, i think the linkage goes from the motor to the r/h wiper first, then back again to the l/h wiper is how i remember it. So if you remove the r/h wiper and linkages, the l/h wiper can't work by itself. Unless you do a custom linkage to it which i think could be possible with enough messing around but it wouldn't be easy.
 

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Only way to have your cake and eat it too is rig up some opposed arm wipers. Perhaps with motors out of a vehicle that is like this from factory.



The opposed-arm format actually provides better wiping coverage, but it requires two motors—one on each side—which presents its own challenges. "You need more high-level electronics to make sure the two motors are synchronized, or else your blades are going to hit each other," said Matt Gausden, director of engineering design and materials at Hyundai.

"Also, a dual motor means there are twice as many things that can go wrong. But you get a benefit in terms of packaging, because the motors are farther out on the edges of the car, where there's more space."

https://arstechnica.com/cars/2017/02/have-you-looked-at-your-windshield-wipers-lately/
 

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Going off on a tangent now LOL... Bosch has direct drive wiper motors if anyone is keen enough. Video of them working below. I have no idea how you'd synch them but a motor from one of the vehicles that has this could at least work one side so the driver can always see.



Heres one potential source of wiper motors...

 

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What you can do maybe ( i haven't tried this) is leave the l/h side wiper in there only which is your drivers side and figure out a way how to hook up a wiper motor to turn it. The one wiper will give enough vision for the driver. I can't remember off hand how the linkages are setup now between the two wipers i'd have to go look to see if the l/h wiper can function with the other one removed and disconnected. But from memory i think it can't, i think the linkage goes from the motor to the r/h wiper first, then back again to the l/h wiper is how i remember it. So if you remove the r/h wiper and linkages, the l/h wiper can't work by itself. Unless you do a custom linkage to it which i think could be possible with enough messing around but it wouldn't be easy.
Im thinking out loud here... well through the keyboard... Ford focus wiper motor wont need a linkage

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FOCUS-2012-WIPER-MOTOR-FRONT-RH-SIDE-LW-05-11-08-15-11-12-13-14-15/401795962529

 

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Not a bad idea. It looks like one of those direct drive wipers or the one above can work on the left hand side of a 4th gen straight up if you custom mount it in there. The r/h side would need lots more fab work as the cowl isn't cut out for a wiper motor.
 

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Not a bad idea. It looks like one of those direct drive wipers or the one above can work on the left hand side of a 4th gen straight up if you custom mount it in there. The r/h side would need lots more fab work as the cowl isn't cut out for a wiper motor.
This will fit on the left, looks easy to mount too, 2 bolt holes.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UTV-Electric-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Kit-for-Polaris-Ranger-RZR-900-Can-Am-Honda/352866690788

And it states the following

*This universal wiper motor kit can be made to work on nearly any application.

*Additionally, these wiper motors can be wired together in tandem using an external switch if your project requires a dual wiper system.


...if you can get one in on the right side also, youre almost legal in straya. And even if you cant synch em to overlap, shorten the blade that isnt on the drivers side and vision will still be decent in the rain
 

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Im spamming the thread with wipers now, if the edit window was longer id be adding this shit to my previous posts.

cable driven wiper system might work on these cars with the cowl cut and tall intake, could run that thin cable and tube from one side to the other behind the intake.

what I like about this kit is the adjustment, 2 speeds, and it has a park position. Looks light enough. Maybe first step to ditching the heavy steering column eventually too in these cars as you wont need the wiper stalk. :cool:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOT-ROD-WIPER-KITS-REMOTE-2-SPEED-CABLE-DRIVEN-SELF-PARK-SUIT-FORD-CHEV-HOLDEN/162752828479
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I really wouldn’t mind only one wiper. I do rain x the glass regularly but it’s some classes that require to have a functional wiper is why I want to keep at least one.

Thank you for the information on the actual height of the CID intake. All great information keep it coming.
 
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