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Discussion Starter #21
I haven't looked closely at the head yet. I did wonder if there was any water in that area. I didn't notice water in that hole, and you are right, the threads don't seem rusty. I did consider that it is a sealing issue, but I don't see evidence of that on the gasket at first look. I shall do some more observing/looking
 

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Could you pressure check the block with water in it?
The left and, right banks are not connected coolant wise so, you only need to seal up one side.

My local machine shop has a metal plate with a rubber layer on it to check block's, head's.

I would call up whoever made the block, see what they have to say about this.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Their thought on it was that often those cracks are caused by over torquing the shoulder of the stud into the block. But sometimes the head is trying to lift, and it can cause a stress crack. If it doesn't go to the cylinder, get bb's in the bottoms of the holes, seal the studs, rtv around the bolts top and bottom of the gasket, torque carefully and retorque later. With a mls with no sealant on it anyhow. Worth trying for what it costs.
 

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Speaking of BBs for keeping the head stud from bottoming out and stressing the block. What is the material of a "BB" and what diameter is common? Are we talking gun BBs or bearing balls or? Soft material or hard like a ball bearing? Lead shot?
 

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The RA on that deck does not look like it's MLS worthy. Curious what Dart would say about that. If you don't find any issues with head contributing to leak and you reassemble, pressurize cooling system to 20psi without coolant and listen with hose in cylinder through plug opening.
 

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I hear that.
should there be water present from this crack? It’s on the right of the hole and not easy to see. I think this is the culprit because the gasket shares the line View attachment 115207
I had an old cup block that came in the shop from Richard Childress all cylinder had a composite flange type sleeves and every head bolt hole was cracked to the sleeve. Even with a MLS gaskets I have always used Copper head gasket spray over the years I have seen many old cup engines with MLS gaskets and copper spray.

Some times on big bore blocks its not a good idea to sleeve them as trying to keep the adjacent cylinders round can be challenging to say the least.
 

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T/S 368E
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Hey MR. CNC, since you're in here, how would you fix the outer starter hole being cracked.
I've gotten all kinds of opinions, including throwing it away with only 27 runs on it:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Thanks for your posts, learning a lot.

.
 

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Hey MR. CNC, since you're in here, how would you fix the outer starter hole being cracked.
I've gotten all kinds of opinions, including throwing it away with only 27 runs on it:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Thanks for your posts, learning a lot.

.
Those can be spray welded and remachined, Seen a lot of blocks that have been repaired and still running.
 

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T/S 368E
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Thanks, like I said, I've heard everything under the sun.
I know I'm a cheap ass, but I can't see throwing it away for this!!

.
 

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Dart Little M. I have some small cracks starting from the head stud holes toward #7 cylinder. I'm getting water in that cylinder. Is there any way to repair these cracks? It’s on the right of the hole and not easy to see. I think this is the culprit because the gasket shares the line View attachment 115207
This should be easily repairable using the Lock-n-Stitch FFT thread insert. Once repaired, it will be stronger than the original block and watertight. You can send them the block or you may buy the kit from them and repair it yourself.
 

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Thanks, like I said, I've heard everything under the sun.
I know I'm a cheap ass, but I can't see throwing it away for this!!

.
If it is a threaded hole for the starter. Personally I would brace it and retap the threads in the hole.
 

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T/S 368E
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What I did was drilled & helicoiled it, but the crack is still scaring the hell out of me.
It's no longer being used in the T/S car, but I'm too cheap to throw it away, so I want it fixed for the no-box car.

.
 

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What I did was drilled & helicoiled it, but the crack is still scaring the hell out of me.
It's no longer being used in the T/S car, but I'm too cheap to throw it away, so I want it fixed for the no-box car.

.
LoL,
When's the last time you actually raced a car if any down any track?
 

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According to Dart, Little M blocks have blind head bolt holes.
 
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T/S 368E
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If it is a threaded hole for the starter. Personally I would brace it and retap the threads in the hole.

Finally got the block back and dropped it at my engine guys shop.
He's going to bore the cam tunnel & lifter bores, so now's the time to get the crack fixed also.
He's going to drill it all the way through & retap the threads.
I have 5 mini starters, but they are all 2 bolt, so I'm going to grab 2 more, but get the 3 bolt models!!

Thanks for the help!!

.
 

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Exactly my thoughts. Not the finish for a mls gasket. In a blind hole always make sure the bottom of the hole is clear of anything like oil. If the oils trapped it will not compress, it acts like a hydraulic cylinder. Once you get a crack in cast iron you just about are force to live with it
 

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Had 2 pretty bad cracks between one stud and the bore on my SBC Little M and a flanged sleeve fixed it up. Been running it like this since 2011 with no issues. Currently making more than 1500hp
 
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