Yeah , Exactly what Scot said. Pressure cant go up if you dont have the volume to make it. Having said that, if your oil pressure doesn't come down as revs go up, you probably have the right size pump. Your oil pressure will go up with revs only because the pump is too big and the clearances/leaks in the engine cant allow more flow of oil so pressure must go up which only beats up and heats the oil more than necessary.Adding a higher pressure spring isn't going to accomplish anything if the pump isn't making bypass pressure now. There's too much loss in the system for the pump's volume. Increase the volume and the pressure will go up.
Moving the remote closer probably made more difference than changing the size of the lines but that didn't hurt either. You eliminated 18-20" of line. That's a lot of additional demand on the pump you eliminated. Between that and the oilers, now hopefully your pump can keep up! Keep an eye on the pressure during a run.just an update
I took oilers off for now and was seeing mid 40’s psi cold start idle pressure as of a month or so ago.
Took oil cooler off and saw 50-52 psi cold idle. Did some wot pulls to 7k. Rock solid pressure at 49-50 psi. 52-54 ish going down the road cruise. So it was up a bit from before. Was low mid 40’s wot.
Just now upgraded my remote oil filter lines from -10 to -12 and moved filter mount around 9-10” closer to eliminate some line length. I see 58 psi cold idle now, slight rev to 1600-1800 rpm it was 65. So now shall see what it does when warm at wot. Hopefully its nearer 60-65 in wot now.
So it seems bbc really wants -12 large line for coolers or remote filters. My sbc didnt seem to have such issues with -10
53-55 hot at rpm is plenty of pressure. Run it. If it starts dropping ~7000, it's most likely cavitating.Reason i did the -12 was cuz i made a 18” loop of -10 to just connect the out/in connection at the oil filter adapter boss on the block. Quick fire it was in the low 60’s psi, so the 8-9 ft of -10 brought that down to low 50’s. Figured -12 would decrease losses from pumping that far. Seemed to work
Did a quick hit, saw 57-58 psi during the pull that lasted very shortly. Went down the road abit further and did another hit saw 53-55 psi. Oil was well hot by this point. So its up more than before but not as high as i would like.
Thats as good as its gonna be with this pump im afraid. I’ll live with it til i have to take motor out for inspection. Maybe i’ll do high volume then. Lifters and cam bearings probably bleeding off alot. No idea how guys claim to have 80-90 cold start pressures
This a street rod?. Only guys i know that run oilers are at 800 CI plus. Better pump is an understatement. More lines the more chances of leaks.I got a fresh 555 dart big m going and noticed oil pressure is lower than expected
I have valve spring oilers and remote oil filter with bar/plate style b&m cooler
Engine is in a 3rd gen camaro, Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin so we have filter adapter in the block that has 1/2 npt to -10 outlet running 4 ft of -10 line to cooler mounted at radiator in front of car then 1 ft of line to remote filter housing behind driver headlights basically, thru filter then back to motor thru another 4 ft of -10.
Also from remote filter i have a -6 line takeoff to feed a distribution block near firewall, 4ft away from filter. Distribution block has my oil pressure sender for stock camaro oil gauge and a -4 takeoff to feed the valvespring oilers in the covers.
Two oil pressure sensors. One in the back bellhousing area. One in distribution block off the remote filter housing. Both read about the same
Engine has .0025 rods and .0029 main clearance. It has bushed lifter bores with howards/morel solid roller lifters and it does not appear to drop below or above oil band hole in the bore. Not sure of the exact lifter bore clearance however but they were sized
Melling 10774 std pressure std volume pump
Had lucas 30w break in oil and then moved to 15w40 rotella to see if it changed pressure. It did help hot idle but wot was same
Its idled in the mid 30’s to near 40 cold (80 deg ambient) and hot idled in the 20’s psi at 1000-1100 rpm. At wot up to 6500 its only seeing 43 psi but flat and stable and gets to that pressure immediately on the hit.
It almost seems like i have alot of line and bleed off from the oilers which would drop prssure and the pump is on the bypass spring. Do i just need to swap out to high pressure spring?
Yeah a street car. Lots of street time planned but no super long trips so oilers were probably never needed but i thought they would be a good idea and plus i needed the extra spacer for the valve coverThis a street rod?. Only guys i know that run oilers are at 800 CI plus. Better pump is an understatement. More lines the more chances of leaks.
Where did you get the data on the fittings? If that were the case, you'd have almost zero oil pressure on top of the engine.....Basic hydraulics says that's not true....It's called Pascal's Law......Old rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm hot. Every 90 degree fitting reduced oil pressure by 5 psi - check your routing and fittings - try to eliminate as many 90’s as possible. Then there’s always an Accusump if you’re seriously worried about momentary loss of pressure. Definitely need a High volume pump to make up for extended oil galleys.