[Leftout]

Just picked up a complete 6.0 cheap and thinking of doing and upgrade from what i have now. Current setup is 6.0 with stock crank, compstar rods, wiseco pistons, heads are TFS as cast 220, its blow thru, thinking close to 1000 to tire at 20 psi. Looking to to make 12-1500 reliably with stock iron block and 4 bolt heads. This is not a full on racecar, more of a street car with ocassional trips to track and some grudge street racing. Talked to Molnar and they claim thier crank and power adder rods will hold up plenty fine, also talked with Callies and they also said the compstar CCW crank will be more than enough but get the ultra h beam rods. Im kinda wanting the CCW crank but the almighty price difference is haunting me. Also new set up will be EFI. Can anyone give some input or thoughts, any would be apreciated. Thanks

 

[skinny chicken]

Molnar is good stuff. I would run what you have now. Should be fine for what your doing.

 

[TurboII]

Run the Callies CCW crank and Molnar power adder rods.

 

[Leftout]

Brian, are you interested in quoting some parts for this? pm me, thanks

 

[badass68]

On a side note, has anyone tested the limits of power adder rods? I’ve been near 1100rwhp for awhile.

 

[Leftout]

thats good to here, ive heard nothing but good things about Tom and his products. going to be purchasing the power adder rods and most likely the compstar ccw crank. ive had no issues with the compstar rods just not sure if i want to push them any harder than i am now. would still like to hear more on these parst if anyone wants to share. thanks

 

[LLLosingit]

Are you going to put any fill in the block? At those power levels you're going to be pushing the stock block.

 

[tblentrprz]

Might want to sonic check cyl wall thicknesses. Some can be pretty thin and vulnerable to split >1100whp. Soft tune might help it live <6K.

 

[Leftout]

no fill, will not be on kill all the time. definately taking all the in all the info. block will be sent off to machine shop and be line honed, bored and honed, sonic tested. possibly only honed if i can get away with .005 over. has twin 366 on it, so it may not make 1500 without pushing it real hard. thnking about 1/2 head stud conversion also.

 

[tblentrprz]

Don't think I would worry about 1/2 studs unless using aftermarket 3/4" deck head and pushing >30psi. I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[Orr89rocz]

Idk about stock block and 4 bolt head stuff but molnar crank and rod will easily handle 1500

 

[Mpac3131]

On a Warhawk block with molnar crank and power adder plus rods we've made 1800 wheel no issues.

 

[Leftout]

Thanks for the replies, more of a street car than race car, so I don't think I'll be filling the block as of yet. The 1/2 studs were just a thought, I have a set of heads drilled for 1/2 studs but they are 317's I bought when first started the turbo deal, never used them. I have twin 366's and I don't think they will support 1500hp. Talking with Jose, he suggested the 371's. I think I may have a little more work before I hit 1500, 1300hp maybe. I appreciate everyone's comments, I've learned a lot by reading and listening here. This go around is going to be fun with switching to efi and some of the changes I'm making to car over the winter.... should make it a fun summer. I'll try and post some pics. All have a great day!!

 

[hemi8]

Wouldn't use a stock block, for any boosted engine over 600hp, doesn't matter the brand, some things are just universal:
Beefy aftermarket block to handle the stress
6 head bolts around each cylinder (an absolute must)
Aftermarket heads with thick decks
Screw-in freeze plugs for block
Forged crank
Molnar rods an excellent choice
Beefy piston pins
Forged pistons
Vacuum pump to pull out the crankcase pressure

An engine builder who has plenty of experience building boosted engines and an expert tuner (learning curve is just too damn steep and expensive)

Mike

 

[94tealGT]

Wouldn't use a stock block, for any boosted engine over 600hp, doesn't matter the brand, some things are just universal:
Beefy aftermarket block to handle the stress
6 head bolts around each cylinder (an absolute must)
Aftermarket heads with thick decks
Screw-in freeze plugs for block
Forged crank
Molnar rods an excellent choice
Beefy piston pins
Forged pistons
Vacuum pump to pull out the crankcase pressure

An engine builder who has plenty of experience building boosted engines and an expert tuner (learning curve is just too damn steep and expensive)

Mike

I don’t think That’s the case anymore these days. Stock block LS, Coyote ,other Mod motors , etc can make 1000whp easily with forced induction on stock blocks and stock heads. Hell coyotes do it with stock cams etc.
Most turbo cars or blower cars don’t run a vacuum pump.

for the budget street/ strip power added guys. Stock block etc is where it’s at.

but I get it. Wanna make huge more reliable power , of course do an LSx block, dart etc. Aftermarket heads.