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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if one of our manufacturers here can answer me a couple of questions:

Do the coyote and Conventional modular engines have the same tooth count on the crank trigger wheels? I doubt they are the same wheel? If not what is the tooth count for each?
I know ford racing makes a replacement wheel for the coyote...is this the same tooth count or did they alter that for extended RPMs ?
Considering a coyote with a mechanical fuel injection setup. Thinking about a crankshaft belt drive distributor vs. The MSD mod motor controller for COP's but if the tooth count on the trigger wheel is different I don't know if that will work.
P.s. I'm okay with fab work. Have access to nearly any type of equipment or expertise to get the job done.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anybody got a coyote crank trigger wheel they can count? Have the count on regular mod motor wheels.
 

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This the same Spyder of "spydershaft" fame?
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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U may have better luck back at S197forum for this question
 

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Discussion Starter #6
U may have better luck back at S197forum for this question
Yeah thought id give it shot...I figured some of the same guys go back and forth between forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FYI
Coyote and Moduals both have the same tooth count ...
35 teeth and the wide space
36-1 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Correct, crank wheel is a 36-1. Cam wheel is a bit more complicated than the 1 tooth design on previous V8s.
Here's what I'm thinking...if I lock the vvt/vct it's basically just another mod motor which I can control with any type ECM or aftermarket ignition system like the MSD mod6 ...problem is that cam sensor system has like seven pick ups vs. Older mod motors had one. Why would the mod6 require a signal from the camshaft and crankshaft when it only controls ignition? Can I modify the cam so that only one tooth is picked up?
I'll call MSD in the am.
I really want to simplify the electronics but still have the great flowing heads and excellent engine design. If I can get past the cam sensor hurdle it should be easy from that point.
 

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Here's what I'm thinking...if I lock the vvt/vct it's basically just another mod motor which I can control with any type ECM or aftermarket ignition system like the MSD mod6 ...problem is that cam sensor system has like seven pick ups vs. Older mod motors had one. Why would the mod6 require a signal from the camshaft and crankshaft when it only controls ignition? Can I modify the cam so that only one tooth is picked up?
I'll call MSD in the am.
I really want to simplify the electronics but still have the great flowing heads and excellent engine design. If I can get past the cam sensor hurdle it should be easy from that point.
Most decent ecu's would allow the use of full VVT if you needed or wanted it. Likewise they should be configurable for your cam trigger without modification

Some more basic systems seem to prefer a single tooth. If you will never use VVT and never use the OEM ecu again, yes you can remove teeth to leave just a single tooth.
Ask your ecu supplier/maker if there is a preferred position within the 720deg rotation where they would want to see this tooth.

This tooth identifies cylinder 1 at TDC. Without this identification there will always be 2 cylinders at TDC at this same time and the ecu will not know which is which, and could only fire in a wasted spark mode.

If you're using a dizzy based ignition system, that wont really matter, if using coil packs or coil on/near plug then it is usually preferred to have full sequential firing.
Depends on rpm's, coil dwell times etc though. Below 7-7500rpm it shouldnt be an issue as most coils will have plenty of time to charge between firing even on wasted spark.
 

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To answer your question in simple terms you can do exactly what you are looking to do, the cam input signal is used for a true reference of TDC, the driver bank has a trigger tooth in the same exact location as the 2V/4V , you simply cut the other teeth off (at the end of the cam) and you are good to go. This is the way we run our coyote with the BS3, this can be done for both COP style systems and IPU/sequential systems.

Best of Luck

MMR
www.modularmotorsportsracing.com
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To answer your question in simple terms you can do exactly what you are looking to do, the cam input signal is used for a true reference of TDC, the driver bank has a trigger tooth in the same exact location as the 2V/4V , you simply cut the other teeth off (at the end of the cam) and you are good to go. This is the way we run our coyote with the BS3, this can be done for both COP style systems and IPU/sequential systems.

Best of Luck

MMR
www.modularmotorsportsracing.com
Awesome...that's exactly what I wanted to know...
Should I use intake cam? And do you have any pics re: which tooth is the one I need?
If you are familiar with the mod6...I imagine it is internally set up for the regular mod motor firing order? I should be able to just switch the wires around to correct for the coyotes firing order? .... Or can you program it for a custom firing order?

BTW I just found your belt drive distributor and man that's sweet...just a little bit out of my price range. It would make everything so much easier
 

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1-877-MOD-POWR
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Awesome...that's exactly what I wanted to know...
Should I use intake cam? And do you have any pics re: which tooth is the one I need?
If you are familiar with the mod6...I imagine it is internally set up for the regular mod motor firing order? I should be able to just switch the wires around to correct for the coyotes firing order? .... Or can you program it for a custom firing order?

BTW I just found your belt drive distributor and man that's sweet...just a little bit out of my price range. It would make everything so much easier
The Intake cam on the passenger side works with the BS3 system, the driver intake cam works with the mod6 and stock style earlier ecu's (once you trim off the other teeth of course)

For the firing order you simply need to switch the COP wires around.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Intake cam on the passenger side works with the BS3 system, the driver intake cam works with the mod6 and stock style earlier ecu's (once you trim off the other teeth of course)

For the firing order you simply need to switch the COP wires around.
Do you have a diagram or know which tooth I need to use as the reference for the mod6?
Also when using your belt drive dizzy... How does the mandrel mount on the crank? And ...can you still run a lower pulley for an alternator?
This car came with an MSD dig6 and coil so I'm seriously thinking about going the distributor route since I would never need to upgrade after that.
 
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