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Discussion Starter #1
I have a coyote swap in a 97 mustang GT . DTC code P0012 came up on an OBDII scan . P0012 is the Intake cam bank 1 over retarded .Went to a Ford Roush dealer , they did an IDS scan and confirmed the intake cam bank 1 was showing no activity , other than a tiny bit of mechanical movement .

I checked solenoid circuit, it's good. Replaced the phaser solenoid thinking that was the problem, still pulled P0012. Next fix is to replace the intake cam phaser or plugged screen . Replaced with new intake phaser, and new screens . Put engine back together, still P0012 code. Cleared codes with battery disabled overnite each time . Code is gone until I go WOT, then code pops up

Checked bank 1 cam oil gallery , good volume of oil in a fitted hose and good pressure . filled a quart can in a matter of seconds . Then i blew out the oil gallery with compressed air, could hear the oil blowing out of the cams and air inside the head. There doesn't seem to be a blockage of oil in the gallery and the holes in the cam ends where the screens live were clean , the screens are clean , no debris anywhere .

I can drive in traffic and no code , Go WOT, code pops up, clear code , same code pops up WOT. Only revving to 6800 ,not going into rev limiter.

Engine is a 2012 crate engine new from FFRP in 2012, currently with 2500 miles on it . Driveability can be better at times and WOT power is not all there for a coyote . Still using FFRP tune and PCM has been reflashed with current tune using 94 octane. Hoping some modular guys with phaser savvy can help me . I'm against the wall at the moment , don't know what to do next . Same inquiry has gone to Ford Racing , they said they would run it by an engineer . Nothing so far

Looking for a little help ....... anyone ?


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factory ecu & tune? I would be checking the tune first before mechanical, personally. is the reluctor gear on the back of the camshaft loose or bad? I would change the camshaft position sensor in the back of the cylinder head.
 

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Possible EEC grounding issue? If the solenoids are grounded by bank, perhaps there is a loose/bad connection or a lazy knock sensor on that bank?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It is a crate engine with the FFRP control pack. The tune is not a production tune but a FRPP 91 octane minimum . A little more aggressive than production . I recently had the PCM reflashed with current tune . I just might replace the reluctor sensor , have replaced everything else on that cam , one more part wont hurt . Will end up with lots of spares

The coyote crate engine does have knock sensors, using the FFRP control pack tune the knock sensors are disabled. Minimum octane is 91 , if less ,it will knock. I use 92 or 93
If there is an open in the solenoid circuit , a DTC code will show along with the P0012. Tried the open circuit test and it does show a code . In the final , only one code meaning the circuits are ok, that's why the mechanical phaser and solenoid were replaced .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got a reluctor cam sensor coming overnite ....... If that doesn't fix the code , then the cam is sticking for some reason , either a bad cam or head :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
factory ecu & tune? I would be checking the tune first before mechanical, personally. is the reluctor gear on the back of the camshaft loose or bad? I would change the camshaft position sensor in the back of the cylinder head.

Dang, I wish I had done the CMP at the start as you mentioned . Good news is ,
WOT is coyote 100% and that is nice and no DTC's including the infamous P0012

Got a few spare parts along with the experience of re&re the timing chains and doing
the phasers . If I get bored this winter I might install a forged oil pump gear set.

Thanks to all who made suggestions
 

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AG Jeff is my Hero
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Dang, I wish I had done the CMP at the start as you mentioned . Good news is ,
WOT is coyote 100% and that is nice and no DTC's including the infamous P0012

Got a few spare parts along with the experience of re&re the timing chains and doing
the phasers . If I get bored this winter I might install a forged oil pump gear set.

Thanks to all who made suggestions
Good to see you got her fixed.. I have a set of tss oil pump gears sitting at the house to put in when I get back in town.. Im dreading doing the job
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice .... forged oil pump gears makes you sleep better at nites

Worst part is clearing the clutter over the cam covers and timing chain cover.
the chains and timing is cake

I talked to Michael at L&M recently with the oil gear set and what to do or look out for
he said just to oil them thoroughly and check that they turn freely.

Thinking I'll go ahead and order the gears , then they will find a home this winter.
 

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I think the hardest part of the whole job is pulling the balancer off and putting it back on. Outside of that the job is sort of easy although I'm not certain how easy while doing it with the engine in the car. Way easier when you have it on a stand and can sit down and do it yourself haha.
 

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Balancer wont be a prob.. We have like 4 or 5 sets of pullers lol.. My brother has been a machanic for 14 years and has a stupid amount of tools.. We will get it off lol.. Plus im also replacing the balancer with a sfi one as well as doing the crank gear for the chains for additional peace of mind
 

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Same here IW balancer, TSS Oil pump gears and MPR lower crank gear, it is so stupid simple of a job, just a pain in the butt to get to.
 

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OR you can call JPC Racing. If I remember correctly when last talking to Aaron over there he was saying they had a few in stock but I don't know if it is on their website.
 
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