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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 3 year old house and my rear entrance door into the mud room has gone out of square. I can see day light at the top and bottom corners on the door handle side. If I put a square on the frame, its defenately out of square. My question is this. I'm looking at new prehung doors. What the difference between the Home Depot 6 9/16 prehung door @ $208.00, and the prehung door where all the rest of the doors and windows ( local door and window manufacturer) in my house came from @ $500.00? I don't have an issue paying a little more for a better quality product, but 2 1/2X more? Also, the insulation that seals to the door when its closed is like a foam type product, but I have seen them with a magnetic style insulation the latchs onto the door when it closes. Is the magnetic style better? Thanks guys

Rob
 

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We've installed literally hundreds of the home depot pre hung entry doors, both steel and fiberglass. The HD steel units are a good middle of the road entry door, they install easy, seal well and are a good value.

When money/budget was not an issue on the cheap, we would upgrade to a Taylor or Triton. Frame wise they seem to be constructed stronger, better joints. Sealing they have the magnetic strips built in so it pulls the seal to the door and holds it there. The threshold is also much better. The more expensive doors always seemed to want to push "we have the most adjustiment on our thresholds", and my question to the salespukes, well if the door is constructed properly and the opening is corrent/level-plumb-square, why do I care if I have 3/8" of an inch +/- on the thresold, I should only need an 1/8" worst case scenario.

But having done 99.9% of our work on existing/older homes, there were times that added threshold adjustiment did make things better. Being as your home is newer, the opening should be fine, sounds like it was either a very inexpensive builder door that was installed along with a poor overall installation...you should be getting decades out of the door, not 3yrs.

Construction, like most anything...you can give a guy the best product on the market, and if he dont know what he's doing, it will be deemed garbage....BUT you can give a half assed product to a great installer and you will be telling all your friends how great it is and will get in arguements of why they spent $1500 on their door and your $300 performs just as good.

I have Tritons installed in my own home, but would not be at all afraid to install a Jeld Wen door from HD off the shelf so long as it had an adjustible threshold.
 

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Oh, and FWIW, stay away...far far far away from the Mastercraft entry doors they carry at Menards. Granted we did on average $150-250K annually with our local menards, but I learned decades ago to never ever try and install their doors....then the mastercrafts really seemed to have taken a dive once menards bought their factory, we've had nothing but bad problems with getting the doors to install and seal correctly all the way around the perimeter seal, and that is why I stay away. time is money and if we're devoting an additional 30 minutes per door to get it to install and seal correctly vs other doors on the market, I'm losing money...so big picture, we've never had any luck with them and I was done giving them a shot years ago.

I like Menards for some things, esspecially when most of the jobs I bid people wanted material and labor for free, not giving two shits that spending even a few hundred more will save them thousands in the long run...so menards really helped us cater these cheap fockers and keep the guys working. IMO as well as anybody else that's in the trades and cares about what they leave behind when they're done....menards is basically the goodwill/wal-mart of the homecenters. They carry cheap garbage because from a corporate business standpoint, they understand 80-90% of today's homeowners have no idea what quality is and why it costs more...the new consumer mentality is "it's better than what I've got now, and I'll worry about it later....or I'll get this for now and then later I'll somehow have more money and THEN I'll upgrade...

Essentially spending money twice on the same thing, and then they fail to understand the how and why they're in such a shitty financial spot to being with...it's because they're spending $20 to save $1....but folks dont get it, and at this point, it may be a looong time before they start to understand what quality really is and can do for them.
 

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You get what you pay for...HD is cheaper b/ they are CHEAPLY made..usually made with lesser quality materials..the HD door is probably thinner metal with much less insulation inside the door..I've installed plenty of each(HD and local lumberyard) and I can tell you that the lumberyard doors have held up much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
See. Theres my thought. I believe its just a shit installation job. I'm not a construction guy, but I can't wee any reason why a door frame should go out of square in 3 years. Fixing what I have? How do I get this apart to resquare it, without destroying the frame? I'm not a fan of spending money on something I just payed for 3 years ago, but I don't see any way of getting this thing apart with ruining it.
 

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I have a 3 year old house and my rear entrance door into the mud room has gone out of square. I can see day light at the top and bottom corners on the door handle side. If I put a square on the frame, its defenately out of square. My question is this. I'm looking at new prehung doors. What the difference between the Home Depot 6 9/16 prehung door @ $208.00, and the prehung door where all the rest of the doors and windows ( local door and window manufacturer) in my house came from @ $500.00? I don't have an issue paying a little more for a better quality product, but 2 1/2X more? Also, the insulation that seals to the door when its closed is like a foam type product, but I have seen them with a magnetic style insulation the latchs onto the door when it closes. Is the magnetic style better? Thanks guys

Rob
If your house is 3 years old and the Door Frame is truely out of square you have bigger problems.

Somethimg tells me it just some lose or missing screws in the hinges.

Try installing longer screws 2.5" in the top hinge.
 

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pist'n Broke
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See. Theres my thought. I believe its just a shit installation job. I'm not a construction guy, but I can't wee any reason why a door frame should go out of square in 3 years. Fixing what I have? How do I get this apart to resquare it, without destroying the frame? I'm not a fan of spending money on something I just payed for 3 years ago, but I don't see any way of getting this thing apart with ruining it.
it sounds like a bad install....if u could get someone to help u remove the inside and outside trim and square it up.... u could pry under the bottom and watch the gap dissapear... also look to see if they used long screws in the hinges ( could be part of problem...if the weather seal is still good just fix that door and save some $$$$

do u have a friend that is a carpenter ? just some advise if i was close i would help...
 

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I'm not a construction guy, but I can't wee any reason why a door frame should go out of square in 3 years.

Fixing what I have? How do I get this apart to resquare it, without destroying the frame? I'm not a fan of spending money on something I just payed for 3 years ago, but I don't see any way of getting this thing apart with ruining it.
Either the house settled and you have bigger problems or a lazy guy did a shlock job installing it.

Very carefully, remove the trim and re square the door. You'll see how it is attached when you pull the trim. If necessary, use a sawzall to cut the screws/nails. A search of youtube videos could give you some pointers on proper installation. Or you could just bag a carpenter friend with a nice bribe.:D Either way, it doesn't make a lot of sense to replace a $500 door with a $200 one "to save money".:p
 

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If you know who the Home Builder was/is give him a call. He might be upstanding enough to stand behind his work come over and spend 30 minutes fixing the door properly.

Friday a client of mine called me at 4:45 and said 2 of the Pella replacement windows I installed 3 years ago on a 80 year old house wouldn't close. I told him what he could try and he said he already done that. It's about an 10 mile/15 minute ride. I told him I would be there in 15 minutes. Two screws (Each window) on the bottom of the tracks were some how slightly protruding. I removed them and all is well. It took all of 5 minutes with a screwdriver. He asked me how things were going and I told him badly, very little work out there and he said he still wanted me to replace his roof when it was needed. We mostly talked about Duck Hunting for about a hour.

BTW: Although this was not a workmanship issue I didn't charge him a penny.
 

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Rob either it is a bad instal or something shifted big time. probably a bad install. remove the interior trim and look and see of there are screw going thru the shims,if he missed the shims they can move and throw the door out of alignment. It will probably be cheaper to find a carpenter to fix your door than to buy a new one.
 

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pist'n Broke
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if u decide to remove the trim and check it out, it should be against the framing on the hinge side and shimed on the lock side..... if it isn't thats a big part of your problem..... make sure the framing on the hinge side is level...
 

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Either the house settled and you have bigger problems or a lazy guy did a shlock job installing it.

Very carefully, remove the trim and re square the door. You'll see how it is attached when you pull the trim. If necessary, use a sawzall to cut the screws/nails. A search of youtube videos could give you some pointers on proper installation. Or you could just bag a carpenter friend with a nice bribe.:D Either way, it doesn't make a lot of sense to replace a $500 door with a $200 one "to save money".:p
X2 on the sawzall,re shim,and remember a door closes best the season it was installed.
 

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If it's new construct and the door has shifted I'd be willing to bet there is no shims/jamb nails or screws what so ever. I'd be willing to bet they got a door with the nailing flange, centered it, nailed to the wall. At most if he's lucky there will be some hinge screws removed and longer ones that go into the jamb, but given what's been told here...I would'nt ever expect that.

Resetting the door will probably eat up a day if you've never done it before, they take some time to get just right, but the worst part is undoing everything...which will most likely involve removing exterior siding/trim to get the flashing pulled off the nailing hem and then remove the nails from the nailing hem.

We use SS 3 1/2" screws through the hinge, through shims and into the rough opening studs....you DO NOT want the door tight against the hinge side rough opening jamb...how are you going to reinsulate it??? Center the door in the opening, use/make shims as necessary. I have been using low expansion foam for insulating around the door frames for years with very good results. Only tip for using that stuff...latex gloves to keep the shit off your fingers, and paper towel handy to clean the tip of the gun or tube and catch any oozing out...makes for a nice air tight seal/barrier and also adds a bit of structure support once it's set up..not alot, but better than nothing.
 

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X2 on the sawzall,re shim,and remember a door closes best the season it was installed.
If a decent door is used and gaps are kept uniform it will close like a brand new for years to come, no matter what season it is...if it does'nt, 100% installation issue coupled with inferior product.
 

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If a decent door is used and gaps are kept uniform it will close like a brand new for years to come, no matter what season it is...if it does'nt, 100% installation issue coupled with inferior product.
You Clearly don't live in the South.
 

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You Clearly don't live in the South.
We get the same heat and humidity you boys get...maybe not 8months at a time, but 80-105 with 70-90% humidity is nothing out of the norm....then come winter we shift down to -20F so we cover the complete spectrum and huge temp shifts....I'm yet to install, live in a personal home that has any issues with doors, weather interior/exterior not shutting properly, and there is a reason my installation prices were $100 higher than the local markets "going rate".

Nobody on here will convince me region has anything to do with it...the only thing in IA we dont experience is salt water, but temp and humidty...we get the same shit you southern fellas get.
 

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A dark colored East Facing Door during the summer may work percectly fine @7:00am but by 10:00am may not open or close easily. Then by 3:00pm work perfectly fine again. There is not a lot you can do with that.
 

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I didn't say the door closes improperly,I said it closes best, it will become a little loser in the summer to a nice tight seal in the winter.
 
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