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My trailer is setup with a storage cabinet in the front corner with a pair tool boxes mounted next to it. In the cabinet I have my pancake compressor along with a few other items. Instead of having to connect a line to the compressor and run it out one of the doors, I was thinking about putting in some piping underneath the trailer. And since in my area racing is almost at a standstill, looks like a good time to do it. I have used 1/2" Schedule 40 in my garages for years (30+) and never had any trouble with it. Garages have never been cooled or heated so I don't think temperature is a big factor. The compressor has two quick connect outlets on it so I figured I would use a short connecting hose to the piping, drop down under the floor and run to the rear of the trailer. I would bring it up in the rear corner and mount another quick connect fitting there. This way the only thing exposed would be the piping run. Anyone done the same on their trailer?
 

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T/S 368E
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Exactly, I took a damaged air line and I'm planning to use one of these.
I was planning to use a weather proof outlet box, but worried it would be too small??

I didn't like the look of just leaving the outlet showing??



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My trailer is setup with a storage cabinet in the front corner with a pair tool boxes mounted next to it. In the cabinet I have my pancake compressor along with a few other items. Instead of having to connect a line to the compressor and run it out one of the doors, I was thinking about putting in some piping underneath the trailer. And since in my area racing is almost at a standstill, looks like a good time to do it. I have used 1/2" Schedule 40 in my garages for years (30+) and never had any trouble with it. Garages have never been cooled or heated so I don't think temperature is a big factor. The compressor has two quick connect outlets on it so I figured I would use a short connecting hose to the piping, drop down under the floor and run to the rear of the trailer. I would bring it up in the rear corner and mount another quick connect fitting there. This way the only thing exposed would be the piping run. Anyone done the same on their trailer?
Mine is that way. I am in Florida so no freezing weather here. Schedule 80 is even tougher
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why not just run an air hose under it ?
I think over time a hose would eventually deteriorate and fail. Plus at least on my trailer I think it would be harder to install. Keeping it from drooping would mean fastening it probably to every c-channel under the trailer. I am thinking with pipe it might only be every 3 or so that I would have to clamp it in place.
 

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Tractor trailers use nylon line with compression style fittings, fast fun and easy. I wouldn't hesitate to use PEX, I've used it in my shop air line as an experiment and it works great. PVC is good for waste lines, I'll never use it again for anything with pressure.
 

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We bought a tank to let the pancake compressor fill then set it up to mount under the trailer. It was going to provide a lot larger volume of air and be routed out the side. The guy that actually owned that trailer lost it in the divorce before we finished it. With all of the battery powered impacts and tools I doubt there is the need for that volume of air any longer.

I'd be concerned with PEX rubbing on something.Maybe mounting it in insulated clamps would be enough. Is it susceptible to vibration problems? Maybe use semi air brake lines like this that you can buy by the roll. These guys have a lot of stuff for that.


 

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We mounted a 50' hose reel, and a 50' triple tap 12ga extension cord reel just inside the front side compartment door on the goose neck. No more rolling up the air hose or extension cord anymore. Just give them a tug and they roll themselves up. Can't believe we didn't do it a long time ago. Works perfect. Best part is that its inside, so you don't have to worry about it getting damaged or corroded at all. Remember, if its under the trailer, it can get damaged pretty easy. Especially pvc pipe.
 

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We mounted a 50' hose reel, and a 50' triple tap 12ga extension cord reel just inside the front side compartment door on the goose neck. No more rolling up the air hose or extension cord anymore. Just give them a tug and they roll themselves up. Can't believe we didn't do it a long time ago. Works perfect. Best part is that its inside, so you don't have to worry about it getting damaged or corroded at all. Remember, if its under the trailer, it can get damaged pretty easy. Especially pvc pipe.
I have two 50 foot reels in my Gooseneck, one up front by the landing gear so I can put air in the truck tires and air bags if I need to, and one in the rear for the race car. My 30TAG has one reel in the back. My Gooseneck is plumbed with normal air hose zip tied all the way back so it doesn't sag. The TAG was plumbed in copper. No problems with either one.
 

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I've seen sch40 pvc air line run in a shop that exploded, looked like a grenade went off. I wouldn't use pvc if it were me especially since it will be under the trailer. I'd look at semi truck air line or hard pipe with 1/2" stainless tubing like they use for instrument air in industrial plants if I were going to be doing it myself. Against OSHA regs to plumb air in pvc pipe.
 

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Just use DOT flexible air brake line and the push on connectors. You can get whatever adapters you want and install the whole thing in little time. Lasts forever and easy to fix if it does get damaged.
 

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I've got two ports near the bench that are run with quality rubber hose, and one in the side step at the door and another up top just inside the doors that is run with nylon DOT air brake line. - All has been in use since '14 when we bought and rigged the trailer out, no issues.

The one at the top of the doors I connect to a short whip hose the clips on an awning post and has a poly coil hose hanging down in center of the car when in the pits.

As others have noted, we really only use it for airing up tires and occasionally a blow gun or something. Have moved all the tools over to lithium stuff, even down sized the compressor a year or so ago accordingly.
 

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Is the DOT flexible lines a good idea for regular shop air piping?
I don't know if it is offered in a large enough size for use in a shop. I would think you want at least 1/2 ID or 3/4 for a shop. I thought that type of hose was small diameter, could certainly be wrong!
 

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My trailer was built in 2004 with sch 40 pipe underneath it like the op wants to do, i only now replaced it because the asswipes did a shitty job and barely glued the couplings... It'll last a really long time for a race car trailer. Just take your time, do it right, don't put any added stress on it mounting it and it'll be fine.
I have a coupling outside behind my rear tires, and one inside at the rear.
 

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My only concern would be constant trailer flexing and a hard line = metal fatigue.


I would use air line (rubber or plastic) and hose clamps.

 
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