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Ok well i put a 45° drain on, added a catch can under the turbo and she still smokes... so ive ordered another core for this ebay gt42 which ill try this weekend. Damn smoke is stopping me from actually testing this thing.
 

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Quick fyi for anyone thinking of using a qsv on your lp turbo, it doesn't work. It stops your hp turbo from spooling as quick as it normally would.
 

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Ok well i put a 45° drain on, added a catch can under the turbo and she still smokes... so ive ordered another core for this ebay gt42 which ill try this weekend. Damn smoke is stopping me from actually testing this thing.

Was it a forged fitting or a 45* hose end?? The forged angled fittings should be avoided anytime flow rate needs to me maximized. They have much worse flow than a standard hose end of the same size.
 

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That sounds like a hill climb 240 I had on the dyno some time ago, with a straight 6 mercedes diesel. It had what looked like a wastegate actuator hooked up to the fuel pump for boost fueling. I think that made around 600 whp, it was pretty sweet. Aside from cleaning soot out of the shop for 8 hours the next day, lol!

I do use the AEM X series wideband, connected to the AQ1 over AEMnet. Works great. I also have their 4 channel WB of course for individual cylinder stuff. I believe all of the x series gauges are AEMnet enabled, which could be handy if you want/need a bunch of gauges.
Yes it is the OM606. I assume the car on your dyno was a 240sx, and not a 240D =:)

I am running it in a street car with an he451w and an hx30. 67mm/44mm compressors. They are about 0.7 area ratio so maybe it will be OK. The whole point of the thing is to keep it from smoking by widening the compressor map to include lower rpm e.g. 1500.

You are getting better performance from your A/W setup by using ice. I never thought about it until lately, but if each heat exchanger has a minimum temp delta of 20 degrees or so to ambient (or to the exchange medium), then you have one 20 degree delta at the IC core and another at the water to air radiator, so your best net delta to ambient is twice as high with A/W as with A/A.

Good luck with your new track! If I am ever out there I will definitely come and make a pass.
 

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Minor update on my shitbox. My buddy Nick Stack (4g63 S10 that was compound turbo for a few years, I'm sure I posted it above somewhere) got a new head built for my car. I never would have found the time or the energy to deal with it, so I'm really glad he did. I should have that very soon. I even found my spare copper gasket in my storage unit yesterday which will save some time. And then it should just be a one day deal to swap that head out. And I know of a place close by I can do some testing. :D This one has the deck reinforced, so I'm hoping I can get to 70-75 psi without any trouble. The new converter showed some promise too, but we'll see how that looks on a full pull. So at long last, some new data coming soon.
 

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Cool. Glad to hear it is closer to being back in action. What compression ratio do you run? I would think it would be low with all that boost in order to keep peak cylinder pressures down?

Minor update on my shitbox. My buddy Nick Stack (4g63 S10 that was compound turbo for a few years, I'm sure I posted it above somewhere) got a new head built for my car. I never would have found the time or the energy to deal with it, so I'm really glad he did. I should have that very soon. I even found my spare copper gasket in my storage unit yesterday which will save some time. And then it should just be a one day deal to swap that head out. And I know of a place close by I can do some testing.
This one has the deck reinforced, so I'm hoping I can get to 70-75 psi without any trouble. The new converter showed some promise too, but we'll see how that looks on a full pull. So at long last, some new data coming soon.
 

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Ok it turns out my turbo isnt smoking it was my drain from the lp joining one of my hp drains in the sump that causes the smoke. Im currently building a standalone oil system to fix that issue.

I have a question i need to ask you guys, if your HP wastegates are creeping for example 7psi to 12psi by redline would that cause additional lag to the lp due to all the exhaust energy not being available to it? Because ive tested from 11psi to 22psi on the hp stage and the lp doesnt come onto boost any quicker.
 

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I've been running a standalone oil system in the trunk (for my "GT35s" that live there, lol) this year. I'm on version 3 "oil pump" and it seems to be working. I'd love to hear what you are thinking of running!
 

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Thank you! But wow, that is a very elaborate looking setup, and very loud with those types of pumps. I used one of that style pumps on my 1st version setup, and it had lots of issues.

My 3rd version is working quite well at this point, is much less expensive, and much quieter than that setup. My setup relies on being able to gravity drain back to the reservoir though. If you are able to, possibly a similar setup might work well for you. My single pump is quiet, doesn't pull a lot of amps when pumping oil, and I think it was less than $40.
 

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I already have one of those pumps being used for my rearmount so its working fine and the cars loud enough that the pump noise doesnt bother me. My rearmount GT42 sits very low and its impossible to gravity drain.
 

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Looking back at my pre-DSM Shootout update, things didn't go according to plan. :D First pass it chucked a rod at ~300 feet. The rod exiting stage left took out the steering shaft and things got interesting, but it lives to race another day. Boost was low at 46 psi, timing, AFR, and everything else in the data looks great. Bearing looked fine. Big end was still bolted together in my containment pan and the small end is still in the piston sitting happily at the top of the bore. Seems to have just been a rod failure. I picked up a Callies 6 bolt crank and steel rods to try out in the next motor. I have a block in storage that should be usable. We just recently got the temporary shop building put up with a lift and my dyno, so I've got somewhere to work again. I'll get something together this off season with any luck, before we open the track in the spring and my spare time drops to 0. No changes at all planned to the turbo/intercooler setup, it's still working very well IMO. I'm left in the same position I was last year, which is to get the converter working better so I can get some ET out of this shitbox. I think I'm on the right track finally. Time will tell!
 

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Do you have any specific suspicions about the aluminum rods, or just trying a set of steel rods just to see how things change? I gather you don't think you really need the cushioning effect of the aluminum rods to take care of your bearings at this point?
 

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I'm just starting to feel like aluminum rods solve a problem I just don't have (never hurt a bearing on this car in 11 years), and they're not worth the liability. I'm making a little more power now, but even at 1000 whp I had no issues with steel rods. As far as I can tell I've broken two pistons and one rod, so it's not always the rods fault. The next motor will have a nice strong rotating assembly, everything will be new/different.

The track did great this year! We ran for 30 weeks, only two rainouts, and we had some great turnouts, particularly in our no prep events. We put a lot of cars down this track this year though, and it shows. Really pushing to resurface at least the whole shutdown and return road as soon as possible. This old track won't take another busy year like this, and we already have a lot more racing lined up for next year than we did this year. I recently got a new temporary shop building put up and got the dyno set up in it, so we're still doing dyno and track rentals, but it's winding down as the weather starts to go to shit. It's gonna be a busy off season, so much to do.
 

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Hi all, I've just signed up to say thank you all for the really valuable info in this thread. It took a couple of days on and off to get through it all.
I'm currently building a compound turbo setup for my little 1.8 vw golf that I plan on racing in the VWDRC.

The HP turbo is a mamba gtx2863r with the LP being a HX50(apparently it has HX55 internals) ideally I'd eventually like to see 60psi of boost at the manifold. I'm using 3x 44mm wastegates, 2 for the HP bypass and 1 for the LP.
I've still got loads of fab work to do, but I'm getting through it bit by bit.











I plan on using 99 octane pump fuel along with WMI as E85 is pretty much non existent in the UK unless you want to pay £70 for 19 Litres.

I want to say it'll be ready for mid season next year but in all honesty I think it'll be pushing it abit
 

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i have a 1200cc 4 cylinder motorcycle, using a gtx35r, alcohol fuel, 3 speed transmission, runs mid 6's at 210 plus, however needs 10,000 to build sufficient boost to launch - no anti-lag, I think that is too hard on the equipment (read $$$$), contemplating going compound with smaller turbo, .48 exhaust not sure of the rest. I want to be able to get the boost up and the rpm down for using a slider or rpm activated clutch, will need to make 15+ at 5k, is this the right way to go?

TIA

s.r.
 

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i have a 1200cc 4 cylinder motorcycle, using a gtx35r, alcohol fuel, 3 speed transmission, runs mid 6's at 210 plus, however needs 10,000 to build sufficient boost to launch - no anti-lag, I think that is too hard on the equipment (read $$$$), contemplating going compound with smaller turbo, .48 exhaust not sure of the rest. I want to be able to get the boost up and the rpm down for using a slider or rpm activated clutch, will need to make 15+ at 5k, is this the right way to go?

TIA

s.r.
This might interest you. UK team running a compound turbo drag bike

 
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