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If flow bench number is your only concern ,why not blow whole chamber out to head gasket edge and make sure it's lower than the seat ? Its stuff like this that send guys in wrong direction.Way more to be learned on proper mixture motion in dynamic state with fuel and cyl pressure. Once a guy learns a flow bench is better in the corner collecting dust and studies what a running engine has to show them, by far off will their learning curve develope.
 

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Or hide behind a screen name because your a scared bitch....

Your not that special..... But you are 100% a dick head.
Who taught you that burr finish garbage? Michael j fox? Does your cutter fly out of your grinder allot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Burr finish works. Been doing it since 1993 , track tested, dyno tested. I've never seen it lose power or seen a car slow down.
I did work with a non believing dyno operator once that blamed my burr finished manifold for the fact that his bad cam choice was the reason that his engine wasn't making power. He pulled the manifold off and made me sand it smooth, I told him he was on the wrong track because the BSAC was as whacked as the BSFC. Brought it back the next morning and bolted it on. Horsepower dropped and the BSFC got even worse.
Burr finish is too smooth for most plenum floors.
I prefer burr finish because the resin that gets impregnated into the ports from the cartridge rolls is almost impossible to get out. No matter how much you clean them they are still filthy. Cant be good for rings and bores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If flow bench number is your only concern ,why not blow whole chamber out to head gasket edge and make sure it's lower than the seat ? Its stuff like this that send guys in wrong direction.Way more to be learned on proper mixture motion in dynamic state with fuel and cyl pressure. Once a guy learns a flow bench is better in the corner collecting dust and studies what a running engine has to show them, by far off will their learning curve develope.
You must be pretty sharp ,2250 lb car running 4.57 1/8 mile with an N/A 407 cu/in is kind of impressive. Not as quick as Australian Pro Stock but pretty damn good.
 

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I prefer burr finish because the resin that gets impregnated into the ports from the cartridge rolls is almost impossible to get out. No matter how much you clean them they are still filthy. Cant be good for rings and bores.
If the resin is so impregnated that it's almost impossible to get out no matter how much you clean (which I completely disagree with)...then it shouldn't be a problem. Just sayin...
Burr finish is one thing. I agree; in areas where there is wet fuel, especially floors, it can be beneficial. Just arbitrarily burr finishing an entire intake is not. Smoke and mirrors IMO.
 

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If flow bench number is your only concern ,why not blow whole chamber out to head gasket edge and make sure it's lower than the seat ? Its stuff like this that send guys in wrong direction.Way more to be learned on proper mixture motion in dynamic state with fuel and cyl pressure. Once a guy learns a flow bench is better in the corner collecting dust and studies what a running engine has to show them, by far off will their learning curve develope.
Or maybe you should put a chain saw finish in comb chamber like v fucktor does because that fixes everything!
Who taught you that burr finish garbage? Michael j fox? Does your cutter fly out of your grinder allot?
I see you are successful in racing, and have good knowledge to add. However, even if you DO have something valid to say, nobody is going to want to listen if you come off like an asshole. Try speaking with a woman using that tone, and see how far you get. lol

Let me smooth this out for you...

Nice job is seeing where the last person who ported the chamber missed a spot that needed unshrouded. It definitely helps to look at all 360 around the valve.

I've been very successful without relying on a burr finish. The shape is FAR more important than the finish. Doesn't seem like a lot of return on the investment. I can see where it may help in some spots, but I have my doubts about a wholesale burr finish just for the sake of having it.

It's often not only what you say, but how you say it. Getting in the habit of saying things like you did above often leads to a lonely existence. Please share your experiences. Just try not to be so hateful when doing so.
 

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With these low floor high angle heads even if the air makes the turn over the short turn the fuel uses the SSR hump to "ski jump" to the back of the bowl and why you see a lot of guys put a burr finish just above the valve job and in the bowl as well as in the runner, helps keep the fuel in suspension. Big drops cost you horsepower.
 

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If anyone sees where someone has said burr is the only way, please point it out! I can give my customer a TON of value in porting and then finishing in burr over making him pay for a smooth finish in a manifold. IF I burr a chamber it's because he isn't paying for that and it's just something I would do.

I have N E V E R seen it hurt a manifold.

Such a retarded thing to argue over.

However, ask Chris Cobb if it works.

Ask Timothy Stickles and his SS/KA Super Stocker if it works.

I have more...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
If the resin is so impregnated that it's almost impossible to get out no matter how much you clean (which I completely disagree with)...then it shouldn't be a problem. Just sayin...
Burr finish is one thing. I agree; in areas where there is wet fuel, especially floors, it can be beneficial. Just arbitrarily burr finishing an entire intake is not. Smoke and mirrors IMO.
Take a clean rag and acetone on you next sanded manifold and tell he how long it takes to get it clean. Where black shit quits rolling out it.
Its as simple as doing your own AB dyno test. Its not that hard to find a customer that will let you do it. Put it on burr finish first, then sand it, what you would do anyway, and when you see the time spent sanding, cleaning, and count the cartridge rolls used, ask yourself was it worth it to gain nothing or possibly lose power.
I like to sand the turns under the carb, even bull nose dividers, makes it look cool easy to clean. I just cant figure out when common sense became contraversial.
 

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Take a clean rag and acetone on you next sanded manifold and tell he how long it takes to get it clean. Where black shit quits rolling out it.
Its as simple as doing your own AB dyno test. Its not that hard to find a customer that will let you do it. Put it on burr finish first, then sand it, what you would do anyway, and when you see the time spent sanding, cleaning, and count the cartridge rolls used, ask yourself was it worth it to gain nothing or possibly lose power.
First you say impossible to get out no matter how much you clean, now you're saying you can wipe it out with acetone. Make up your mind. My point was, if you can't get it out by cleaning, it's not coming out. Besides, if you're getting resin impregnated in your aluminum, you're burning the roll. I don't do that. I've probably ported a hundred intakes or maybe more so this ain't my first rodeo. It's what I do for a living and I usually flap-finish my intakes after cartridge roll anyway. If the intake is right, the finish isn't going to make a hill of beans other than wet fuel areas. Save that nonsense for those who don't know any better.
 

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I'm curious why guys who finish everything with abrasives care why some of us bur finish , I mean the undertone sometimes is that we're just a bunch of hacks, when really in 95% of the port, you are just wasting time and taking the customers money for nothing. But that doesn't bother me, I don't have to bring it up or try to knock someone who uses abrasive. I'm just curious why you guys care?
 

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If I'm porting something, I get scared when using a burr, as they cut so fast! I'll just use the burr to rough it in, then do the last of it with a cartridge roll. I respect the guys who port more often than I do, and can quickly do the entire port with a burr. That's one reason you won't see any 'burr finish' from a lot of guys... including me... unless we go back afterwards and try to add it when we're finished. lol
 

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I thought burs cut slow. lol I'm pushing on them trying to make them cut faster, at least in cast iron. A nice new bur does cut pretty fast but once you do a couple sets of cast heads they are dull.
 
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