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Discussion Starter #1
Are there any Trans issues to be had with clicking an engine off just past the finish line, and coasting to a stop, to be able to check a spark plug? I have a Turbo 400 in my car.
 

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Wayyyyy more left in it!
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I recall hutch posting something like "make sure you have moto-cross boots on, a good trans sheild, and a life insurance policy" in response to those exact question. Lol
 

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FUCKING ASSHOLE SINCE '61
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Are there any Trans issues to be had with clicking an engine off just past the finish line, and coasting to a stop, to be able to check a spark plug? I have a Turbo 400 in my car.
Doing that with a TH400........IS JUST PLAIN STUPID!

I have had to fix the damage caused by the shrapnel EXPLODING
the bellhousing and going through the dash, windshield and passenger door and window.

On my friends 1955 Chevy.

HE was EXTREMELY LUCKY not to be hurt!

Somethng about the internal "something" going from
ZERO to 7,000 rpm..........kablooeey........

DON'T DO IT!

Do a search for it, or Google it.

"Another reason for the use of the billet drum is preventing a drum explosion in the event that it would go into an overspeed condition when shifting from high gear into neutral under load, where drum speed can nearly double. Cast iron, in this situation, would simply explode at the nearly 14,000 RPM it might see. The hard anodizing of the direct drum increases the surface hardness, giving it more longevity. Aluminum is a naturally “soft” material, and the hard anodizing reduces wear that aluminum is prone to inside the lugs where the direct steels are located inside the drum."

I lifted this directly from HUGHES RACING TRANSISSIONN

Your Pal, Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So, what would be the proper way to slow it down without messing up the plugs to get a good read after a pass? Should I just slow down letting the rpms come down naturally , then kill it? Or will the plugs have been ruined by then and it can't be done. just looking for advice to properly slow car down and be able to read plugs after a pass.
 

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Trans with clean neutral?
 

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http://vid32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/photobucket-25031-1339557374849.mp4

This gives an idea of what's going on roughly when you kill the engine at the end of the track. Engine shuts off, drag in the converter brings the input shaft rpm down considerably. Watch the video and you can see the direct drum being driven.

This shows worst case scenario (input shaft stopped) which usually doesn't happen. But with 7000+ RPM driveshaft speed, you can get an idea what kind of over-speed the direct drum sees even with some input shaft rpm (idle in neutral for example). Either way can end up in a very ugly mess.
 

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Hey Steff , just let it coast down for a bit then click it off. You won't have any problem reading the plugs or doing damage to the trans. Throwing it in neutral or back to 2nd right in the lights is can be very dangerous. If you have aluminum drums in your trans then you have less to be concerned with.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanx for the input Guys! For the record, I wasn't going to shift it into neutral or anything like that, before clicking it off thru the lights. I was going to leave it in gear and just click the key off, to kill the motor. But, now I will let it slow down first, before clicking it off.
 

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I have a rossler 400 and I click it off in 3rd gear once I slow down to about 80 mph. Never had a problem and get good plug readings
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can click off the ignition at the stripe if you leave the trans in gear. It will just coast down as normal.


Hutch
That's what I meant in my original post. I guess I didn't explain it properly. Thanx!!
 
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