[mindinfection]

I KNOW ITS A DUMB QUESTION BUT I HAVE NO EXPERIENCES WITH A THE CHEV VORTEC ENGINES

WILL A GEN 1 STYLE SBC CAM FIT A VORTEC ENGINE??

I THOUGHT THE VORTEC ENGINES HAD DIFFERENT HEADS N INTAKE MORE THAN HAVING A DIFFERENT SHORT ENGINE

PLEASE SCHOOL ME OR ADVISE ME ON THIS MATTER

CHEERS

 

[JWRE1]

The vortec engines have a hydraulic roller with a retaining plate in the front. They also do not have a fuel pump lobe and the block usually isn't drilled for a fuel pump rod. You can however drill the block using a special fixture if desired. If you run an aftermarket cam you will need to do one of two things. Either order the cam with the step ground in the first journal for the retaining plate along with the bolt pattern for the matching timing set (the bolt pattern is moved inward to clear the retaining plate) which is offered by most cam companies for little or no charge, or install an aftermarket timing cover that is capable of supporting the load of a cam button as the factory cover is plastic.

 

[JWRE1]

One more thing, the vortec came with cam bearings designed for use with the steel cam cores it came with, Clevite P/N SH-1349S, but they also work better with cast iron cores. However, any SBC cam bearings used before the LS will all interchange.

 

[mindinfection]

THANKS FOR THE INFO
MUCH APPRECIATED
CHEERS

 

[dfarr67]

Watch gasket sealing in particular timing cover if not using vortec plastic. No provision for coolant bypass- but that is fixed with a drilled hole- not sure about head gasket coolant holes. Yes it is gen1 but there are more differences than you think.

 

[Honk if parts fall off]

You can use a regular gen 1 cam and timing chain. I do on the engine in my car.

Any SBC head and intake will bolt on. If you use a Vortec head, you have to use a Vortec style intake.

It's a one piece rear main seal, but an adapter is available to use a 2pc rear seal crank.

 

[qtrpounder]

use the correct cam and the retainer plate. its much better than a button, imo. I also like the factory style lifters and the spider, they weigh less and dont have to use a link bar. alot of guys will disagree, but I used that stuff in a 7200 rpm motor for 3 years in a street /strip car.

 

[Honk if parts fall off]

[Q,5UOTE=qtrpounder;24244946]use the correct cam and the retainer plate. its much better than a button, imo. I also like the factory style lifters and the spider, they weigh less and dont have to use a link bar. alot of guys will disagree, but I used that stuff in a 7200 rpm motor for 3 years in a street /strip car.[/QUOTE]

"Dont" is spelled "don't".


My 355 has been to 7,900 rpm, has made over 1,100 hp and been 8.50's at 159 mph in a street car that is nearly 3,600 lbs. This is since 2008. That's 6 years if you're counting.

gen 1 cam and button is just fine.

 

[JWRE1]

You can use a regular gen 1 cam and timing chain. I do on the engine in my car.

Any SBC head and intake will bolt on. If you use a Vortec head, you have to use a Vortec style intake.

It's a one piece rear main seal, but an adapter is available to use a 2pc rear seal crank.

[Q,5UOTE=qtrpounder;24244946]use the correct cam and the retainer plate. its much better than a button, imo. I also like the factory style lifters and the spider, they weigh less and dont have to use a link bar. alot of guys will disagree, but I used that stuff in a 7200 rpm motor for 3 years in a street /strip car.

"Dont" is spelled "don't".


My 355 has been to 7,900 rpm, has made over 1,100 hp and been 8.50's at 159 mph in a street car that is nearly 3,600 lbs. This is since 2008. That's 6 years if you're counting.

gen 1 cam and button is just fine.[/QUOTE]
Not one of the above posts ever stated that a Gen 1 cam with a button would not work. They did however recommend running a cam with the retaining plate because it would be more reliable, easier to set up, and give less timing fluctuation from increased endplay from timing cover flex. So just because you chose not use a retaining plate which is the same cost, and also proven to be a better method, their's no need to talk a guy into running a cam button just because you made the mistake of using one. I really hate to sound like an asshole, but I don't understand people who try to talk someone into going with an outdated method that even requires more time to setup when the new method is proven to be better and costs the same. Sorry man, maybe I'm just missing the point of backtracking.