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Caster/Camber plates and drag set up

9203 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Matt Hill
I am considering picking up a set of these to help optimize my results in drag racing my car. What are the benefits of these in terms of performance and safety for a street/drag car? Will I see much difference in ET installing these or just a more stable settled car down the track? Any tips on initial settings primarily for racing and would you attempt to adjust at the track then re-adjust for the drive home or is that even required? Let me know what you guys have done or are doing. BTW the car is an 85 Mustang. with 70/30 in front and 50/50 out back.
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Caster is not a wear angle. So more or less caster will not effect ET, it will only make the car stable and help the steering wheel return to center. Uneven cross caster will cause a pull and cause steering input, which will cause scrub to occur.


Caster needs to be 0 at the ride height the car is going down track. Cross camber needs to be 0, or again the car will pull and the steering input will cause scrub.

The above will usually cause a pull to the right on a regular road due to road crown. You'll also see what looks like too much negative camber at static ride height.


Unless your current alignment is so outta wack, there should really be little ET gain.


And don't forget Toe, but you didn't ask about that.
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Caster is not a wear angle. So more or less caster will not effect ET, it will only make the car stable and help the steering wheel return to center. Uneven cross caster will cause a pull and cause steering input, which will cause scrub to occur.


Caster needs to be 0 at the ride height the car is going down track. Cross camber needs to be 0, or again the car will pull and the steering input will cause scrub.

The above will usually cause a pull to the right on a regular road due to road crown. You'll also see what looks like too much negative camber at static ride height.


Unless your current alignment is so outta wack, there should really be little ET gain.


And don't forget Toe, but you didn't ask about that.
Shouldn't that second one be chamber?
Caster is not a wear angle. So more or less caster will not effect ET, it will only make the car stable and help the steering wheel return to center. Uneven cross caster will cause a pull and cause steering input, which will cause scrub to occur.


Caster needs to be 0 at the ride height the car is going down track. Cross camber needs to be 0, or again the car will pull and the steering input will cause scrub.

The above will usually cause a pull to the right on a regular road due to road crown. You'll also see what looks like too much negative camber at static ride height.


Unless your current alignment is so outta wack, there should really be little ET gain.


And don't forget Toe, but you didn't ask about that.
caster at 0...I would not want to drive it !!! NFW !!! you want as much + caster as you can get in it 8-10 would be great, but won't get there...but you want + 3+ both sides being equal, camber 0 toe 0...
You want at least 5* pos caster in a drag car.
Set up with the maximum caster you can get, then adjust for 1 to 2 degrees camber and maximum of 1/4 inch toe in. Caster makes the car stable at speed.
Steer plates are expensive , but make things easy . You can achieve similar results with a spindle mount camber caster tool like below. I use trammels ( I made ) , jack stands , string and this tool:

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caster at 0...I would not want to drive it !!! NFW !!! you want as much + caster as you can get in it 8-10 would be great, but won't get there...but you want + 3+ both sides being equal, camber 0 toe 0...
If you understand alignment angles then you know thats a typo.
Well, I guess I now have to get some kind of low-buck, yet effective alignment tools. The shop full of hot rodders and racers that I've used for every alignment for myself and my customers has now closed. I'm interested in hearing more about what everyone is using...
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