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Discussion Starter #1
im building an 393 ford this winter just wondering what you guys per fur eagle or scat plus whats the max hp and rpm i can run

heres my combo iv got so far
AFR 195 race ported heads dss forged pistons and H beam rods dont plan on going over 7k World product intake big cam "solid roller" race motor only about 12.5.1 too 13.0.1 CPR 1 7/8 headers

just like to have everyones input on the crank shaft idea iv heard guys doing just fine with cast cranks i plan on having everything double checked and balanced when the time comes to putting it together
 

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I would used the Scat cast steel lightweight crank if you were going to go with a cast crank on your build. My rep at Scat (Brian) told me not to take it past 7500 rpm, well in a IMCA Modified build we were turning that crank 8200 rpm on a tacky track all seanson. We pulled the crank out after the season was over and put a Callies Compstar Comet crank in for strength & durabilityreasons, but the Scat crank visually appears in perfect shape (all though we will wet mag it before attempting to re-use it if we get in a bind again). The engine was never dyno'd just track tested, but my customer/sponsored driver said that it pulled harder than his 406 that dyno'd "supposedly" 646 HP from a previous builder (so take this with a grain of salt).
 

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turning thos rpms what rods did you use?
Here is the run down on the engine:

-GM 509 block machined & prepped by myself
-4.165" bore x 3.5" stroke for 382 cid
-Scat 9000 series cast steel lightweight crankshaft
-Scat 2-ICR6000-7/16-2000 I-beam rods w/7/16" ARP2000 capscrews
-Mahle SpeedPak -4cc dome pistons
-EQ 220 heads mildly ported for 2.055"/1.6" valve combo
-Cometic 4.200" bore x .040" thick MLS head gaskets
-Erson custom grind cam spec'd by me with their .375" lobes
-Edlebrock Super Victor ported by myself
-Crane 1.6 Gold billet rockers
-Smith Bros 5/16" pushrods
-Morel EDM lifters
-SA Gear timing chain

Final compression was 14.04:1 and was running a custom BLP carb on alky.
 

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What block are you going with? Do you already have this crank?
 

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We made 711 hp with one then sprayed it with 400hp. Never broke the crank or the stock block!!!!! Zero balance is a key part and keep from deadanation.... Good luck....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
block out of an 95 f-150 roller block and i dont have the crank yet im waiting on my next check to buy everything but changing my mind on some parts trying to get all the power i can with out spray or boost
 

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I don't think I'd use that block or even build a 3.85 stroke engine.
You'll find with a little looking around that you can build a 408 that has less of a piston wieght than any 393ish engine has. Litewieight is is the key thing here.
That late roller block is really sort of weak compared to other 351's......
 

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Cast Eagle 3.85 crank here with Scat I-beam rods and DSS pistons. In a 1971 block. It's worked fine with no issues so far in a street/strip Foxbody. C-4 with a PTC 8" custom verter and 3.55 gears.
NA shift at 5800 with 10.60's. With a 100 shot shift at 5800 and go in the high 9's.
Pretty reliable and no issues.
Can't wait to get a Cleveland based combo in it again....lol
 

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I've ran both. The Eagle broke and cost me a motor the Scat is still good to go.
 

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I had a 3.85 stroker eagle cast crank..In a 69 Windsor block, probe pistons, comp solid fltp cam and otb vic Jr heads and intake combo went 6.80's in a 3000 lbs 83 gt mustang..never went over 7000rpms..
 

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Cast Eagle 3.85 crank here with Scat I-beam rods and DSS pistons. In a 1971 block. It's worked fine with no issues so far in a street/strip Foxbody. C-4 with a PTC 8" custom verter and 3.55 gears.
NA shift at 5800 with 10.60's. With a 100 shot shift at 5800 and go in the high 9's.
Pretty reliable and no issues.
Can't wait to get a Cleveland based combo in it again....lol
I know kind of an old thread, but Tater were you footbraking or using transbrake?
 

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Wow, old Thread alert lol. That old 393 combo was a trooper n was in the car up until last Fall with only new valve springs! I was foot braking back in the day n about 4 yrs ago I swapped to a G Force g101 manual trans/Ram adjustable clutch. After a steep leaning curve n more than a couple broken 8.8” ring/pinions we swapped in a Quick Performance fabbed 9” n put a Racepak in the car n got a grip with the clutch. With me in the car it weighed 3125 at MDIR scales and it was running 10.0’s at 133 mph in 95 degree heat. Which I thought was pretty impressive for what the engine combo was. Well, I had a brain fart n over revved the engine by mistake n on the Racepak it recorded 8,720 rpm’s for a couple seconds. I tried to finished the season out last year but 6 passes later one of the Eagle Sir I beam rods decided it was game over n practically trashed the entire shortblock but I managed to get the heads redone/salvaged. I currently have a 351C 4V 14-1 solid roller combo in the car and in the process of getting a Dart 9.5” deck Windsor 438” combo coming together but still collecting parts for that. The last couple seasons on the Racepak I was shifting the 393 around 7,200-7,400 n in 1/4 mile tracks going thru just above 7,400 with a 4.71 gear. I’m thinking if I hadn’t over rev’ed it that it’d still be running today. FWIW, I stayed on the valvetrain parts n was running Jesel shafts n good name valve springs. Looking back putting the G Force g101 trans in my car was the best move I’ve made as far as making the car Fun again. Not cheap to do but we’ll worth it, IMHO!!!
 

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I was wrong in the yrs ago post. I had a Scat cast 3.85” crank n stock 351w length Eagle I beam rods. Not sure how I mixed that up.
 

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We made 711 hp with one then sprayed it with 400hp. Never broke the crank or the stock block!!!!! 🤔Zero balance is a key part and keep from deadanation.... Good luck....
👍🤫😉
 

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Wow, old Thread alert lol. That old 393 combo was a trooper n was in the car up until last Fall with only new valve springs! I was foot braking back in the day n about 4 yrs ago I swapped to a G Force g101 manual trans/Ram adjustable clutch. After a steep leaning curve n more than a couple broken 8.8” ring/pinions we swapped in a Quick Performance fabbed 9” n put a Racepak in the car n got a grip with the clutch. With me in the car it weighed 3125 at MDIR scales and it was running 10.0’s at 133 mph in 95 degree heat. Which I thought was pretty impressive for what the engine combo was. Well, I had a brain fart n over revved the engine by mistake n on the Racepak it recorded 8,720 rpm’s for a couple seconds. I tried to finished the season out last year but 6 passes later one of the Eagle Sir I beam rods decided it was game over n practically trashed the entire shortblock but I managed to get the heads redone/salvaged. I currently have a 351C 4V 14-1 solid roller combo in the car and in the process of getting a Dart 9.5” deck Windsor 438” combo coming together but still collecting parts for that. The last couple seasons on the Racepak I was shifting the 393 around 7,200-7,400 n in 1/4 mile tracks going thru just above 7,400 with a 4.71 gear. I’m thinking if I hadn’t over rev’ed it that it’d still be running today. FWIW, I stayed on the valvetrain parts n was running Jesel shafts n good name valve springs. Looking back putting the G Force g101 trans in my car was the best move I’ve made as far as making the car Fun again. Not cheap to do but we’ll worth it, IMHO!!!
How does the cleveland combo
Run?
 
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