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Discussion Starter #1
I am wondering who is a good shop to do carbs for my car.
It is a 65 A/FX Belvedere. It has a 426 hemi with 10.5 to 1 compression. It has two 770 cfm holleys and has a cross ram manifold what are your suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am looking to make the car a little faster. It currently runs 11.2-11.5. I would like it to run 10.5-10.8. It is a 3300 pound car with dana 60 with 4.30 gears and a 28 inch tall tire. any suggestions to reach my goal
 

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Unless the carbs are really messed up you won't pick up that much with a carb change. Cam change, head work, converter... How is the traction with it?
 

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a quality carb on your setup will be similar to nitrous. your car is slower, so you have the ability to make up more time than a faster car.

from the top of the line AED to the braswell i have, i only gained 3 and a half HUNDRETHS, running low 6's 1/8 mile. huge gain for me, but dont expect a carb to do what you are asking. you need some more motor or more gear.
 

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What intake are you using,is it the original factory crossram or the newer MP one ? I spoke with AED about them,they have experience with them.
 

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Unless the carbs are really messed up you won't pick up that much with a carb change. Cam change, head work, converter... How is the traction with it?
X2 , If you get a second out of carbs, i wanna know that carb builder !!!
 

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Now that would depend on just how bad what he has now is.
Well, he has ran 11:20 with them in a 3300 lb. tank, so they gotta be working fairly well, dont ya think ?
 

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I dont know those can be pretty bad assed.

I really dont know hell it could be a Barton motor for all I know. None of us have seen it to know, and you cant base it off a static comp figure
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I know i am not going to gain a second by bolting on carbs. I am just wondering if it will help me. And it is a stock compression hemi. with mp performance aluminum cylinder heads. It is a old factory aluminum crossram from 1964. The cam is a solid roller i don't have the specs right now. It has custom headers with merge collectors. It is a 3500 stall converter which is quite tight. I am also considering looseing the converter up as it was built for street use. I am also considering a race weight fiberglass hood. Is there any more suggestions you guys have. I also think the 60 foot could be improved it is in the 1.6 area
 

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I'd start with the converter and see what happens....
 

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If you can read a micrometer, have a set of number drills and are literate enough to follow written instructions, get the Mopar Performance engine book and do exactly as it says in the carburetor instructions for the particular engine, intake manifold and carburetor numbers you have. If you have the correct original carbs and they haven’t been molested, they should already be configured as per MOPAR specs.

The re-popped “same as original” carbs Holley is selling in recent years may be a little goofy with the wrong size idle air bleeds, but the main jets, power valve channels and secondary metering plates should be correct.

The carbs are specifically ‘left’ and ‘right’ because they are stagger jetted, staggered power valve channels and staggered in the secondary main restriction, different for each side of the engine. They cannot be interchanged, L & R. In fact, if they are mixed up, on the wrong side, the car will be several tenths slow.

If you have 3116’s or 4235 and 4236 (L & R pair), it would be a good idea to be sure they are blueprinted to Mopar’s original Race Hemi specs before you throw the baby out with the bathwater and let some yahoo “improve” them. I’m not saying they can’t be tuned, but the original calibration is where to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The cam specs are Intake duration 262.6 and .5733 lift. Exhaust is 262.6 duration and .5568 lift. and If i do carburetors I plan on buying new ones instead of having the originals messed with.
 
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