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Discussion Starter #1
Put some -6an fittings in my tranny where the lines hook up and made a hair line crack in case, must have been a hair bigger OD. How can i fix it ?? It leaks just alittle, Should i get a new case ?Are can i get it welded ? Are would jb weld work ???
 

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Honestly , you need another case. You put a tapered fitting in a case with a straight thread. That usually breaks the casting. Next time , thread the hole with a pipe tap first then install the fittings.


Hutch
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually it was a strait thread on the end i put in the tranny and a -6an on the end that hooks to the tranny lines.For some reason it made a hair line crack. Sorry for the misunderstanding, but like you said probably need a new case. Thanks
 

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I would drill a small hole at each end of the crack also.
Good idea, though I would assume it split from the threads around, thus just drill a small hole at the end of the crack before welding.

Why GM uses it I'll never know, but the OE case thread is British Pipe Parrallel(BSPP). Same thread pitch as pipe thread, but not tapered like regular NPT.
 

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same thing happened with my th350. didn't crack thru the whole threads but I epoxied it and its been good for 5 yrs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's what this is my personal turbo 350. It was what looked like a regular npt thread gong in the tranny and a -6an going to the cooler. I simply backed mine out and put in new fitting ,cranked car and was gonna inspect it for leaks and yep had a leak. But it looks like it split long ways on the top line. I think I'm gonna pull it out and V it and get it tiged then put that jb weld over the tig weld. That should get it for sure, I don't believe its gonna be under a lot of pressure. So it should hold
 

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That's what this is my personal turbo 350. It was what looked like a regular npt thread gong in the tranny and a -6an going to the cooler. I simply backed mine out and put in new fitting ,cranked car and was gonna inspect it for leaks and yep had a leak. But it looks like it split long ways on the top line. I think I'm gonna pull it out and V it and get it tiged then put that jb weld over the tig weld. That should get it for sure, I don't believe its gonna be under a lot of pressure. So it should hold
I would say you need to find a better welder if you feel you need jb weld over it
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lol !! Ya never know ,and at 140 that's the last thing I wanna be thinking about. Just put the jb over it to be sure there is no pin holes.
 

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I would say you need to find a better welder if you feel you need jb weld over it
YOU ever try and weld a tranny case with oil on it and gms shitty aluminum.......... NOT the easiest task...... for a proper weld it needs stripped, cleaned real well and welded........jb it to be safe
 

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JB weld is a contaminent to the welding process, very difficult to remove all the JB product to repair after it has been applied. If You put JB on the weld I doubt Your welder will stand behind his work.
Virtually any product like JB is going to do the same, my personal favorite is the epoxy head porters use, it can be bought at a marine store.
Carl
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I doubt the welder is gonna stand behind fixing a screew up like that anyway. If it leaks again I will for sure change the case but thanks for the info
 

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YOU ever try and weld a tranny case with oil on it and gms shitty aluminum.......... NOT the easiest task...... for a proper weld it needs stripped, cleaned real well and welded........jb it to be safe
And your point is ? Did I say how I would have done it ? There is the right way/best way, and the wrong/easy way. you choose yours.
 

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Easy guys . The right way to do this is a new case. The risky way is welding that die cast oil impregnated crud and a furthur bandaid is putting some glue (JB) on it. I really think its unsafe to even consider using a potential leaker at the races. You could be taking a big chance with your car and another racers car running something you know could go out on you at any moment like that. You make the final decision but cheezy half assed fixes I can't approve of them here .



Hutch
 

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When we were doing alot of circle track (Yuk!), the racers use to over tighten the tapered 1/8" pipe fittings to tight into the case and split the cooler areas on the case, being we knew they would end up braking the case anyway, we would pull the front pump, then thread and install set screws in the two holes in the front of the case behind the front pump, and not run a cooler if you can get away with it. Just a thought to make a last attempt to save a case. Burt
 
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