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Discussion Starter #1
We've got a 8.2 deck small block ford were moving over to CnP.

Is the 3 wire explorer 5.0 cam sync sensor a direct drop in?

Any idea where to get pigtails for this so I can make a nice plug in harness?
 

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I'm not sure about the 8.2" SBF deck height thing, but...
If you want sequential injection, you can run a Price Motorsport Cam Sync unit:
http://www.pricemotorsport.com/html/...chronizer.html (Price Motorsport)
It's the Explorer cam sensor - single pulse per rotation (1x) cam signal.
The distributor shaft is .531" diameter and he can sell it without the gear.
The pigtail wiring connector is Motorcraft WPT196 (3U2Z-14S411-NA).
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...FT_WPT196.html (RockAuto)
http://info.prestoliteperformance.co...010_74397G.pdf (Distributor Gears - 36 & 37)
Most importantly, it is compatible with Holley EFI (Digital Falling) and it looks good too.

If you want a distributorless ignition system, Holley's DIS or CNP ignition is a great conversion.
If you decide on a distributorless ignition system, we'll discuss it in further detail then.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It seems like he builds stuff to work with the taller engines. And 5.0 stuff just drops in, of course we need a bronze gear for our cam and not oem stuff.

"For those of you that already own a 302, this billet cap may just be the answer you have been looking for. It comes with 2 stainless steel socket head cap screws and washers. It also fits our new Camshaft Synchronizer."


 

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I bought a 1996 explorer cam sync unit off amazon. It was $35. Brand new. I believe it was made by Richporter. Change the distributor gear. Also there was some debri like media blast or sand in the end of the shaft so clean it up before install. Works good. I ended up going the the junk yard and getting the connector.
 

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I'm not sure about the 8.2" SBF deck height thing, but...
If you want sequential injection, you can run a Price Motorsport Cam Sync unit:
http://www.pricemotorsport.com/html/...chronizer.html (Price Motorsport)
It's the Explorer cam sensor - single pulse per rotation (1x) cam signal.
The distributor shaft is .531" diameter and he can sell it without the gear.
The pigtail wiring connector is Motorcraft WPT196 (3U2Z-14S411-NA).
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...FT_WPT196.html (RockAuto)
http://info.prestoliteperformance.co...010_74397G.pdf (Distributor Gears - 36 & 37)
Most importantly, it is compatible with Holley EFI (Digital Falling) and it looks good too.

If you want a distributorless ignition system, Holley's DIS or CNP ignition is a great conversion.
If you decide on a distributorless ignition system, we'll discuss it in further detail then.
Do you know the part number for the correct line up tool for the Price Motorsport cam sync?

Thanks Shane
 

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Do you know the part number for the correct line up tool for the Price Motorsport cam sync?
The alignment tool isn't necessary for aftermarket (Holley) EFI.
 

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Hey Danny. Wouldn't it be nice if we could get a sticky for these crank/cam Holley EFI posts?
I thought about that...but a "sticky" implies too many people have trouble with a product, or the product lacks good instructions. But maybe I'm wrong.
 

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I've alway looked at them as a quick reference for information that's been covered many times. Good POV though. Never looked at it that way. Carry on.
 

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I have one more question. Once I have the engine rotated to (Cam Sync Location = 56 + 90 + 90/2 = 191 degrees BTDC #1).

How do I line up the half circle on the cam sync drive? I would think this is
where you would need the alignment tool to set it properly.

Thanks for the help. I may be over thinking and complicating the issue...

Shane
 

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I have one more question. Once I have the engine rotated to (Cam Sync Location = 56 + 90 + 90/2 = 191 degrees BTDC #1).

How do I line up the half circle on the cam sync drive? I would think this is where you would need the alignment tool to set it properly.
In the EFI software, you'll set the Cam Sensor Type to "Digital Falling". So align the trailing end of the semicircular vane (in the direction of rotation), with the center of the Hall-Effect sensor.
 

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In the EFI software, you'll set the Cam Sensor Type to "Digital Falling". So align the trailing end of the semicircular vane (in the direction of rotation), with the center of the Hall-Effect sensor.
Hi Danny, I've read these posts, on the 60-2 and price motorsport cam sync .

Could you list the steps on installing them. I'm pretty clear on the 60-2 install, but the price motorsport part for the cam sync is not so clear. So when installing the cam sync you turn the engine back from TDC about 110-250 degrees and set the half circle part so that it's edge is in the middle of the sensor window. So when the engine runs in the direction to fire the half circle moves out of the middle of the sensor to an unblocked spot to fire the injector. And set it to falling in the software. Also does the 60-2 wheel get set as falling as well. Also when you set the tooth # 10,11 or more, is the tooth set in the middle of the crank sensor or toward the falling or raising edge.

Thanks for any help here.
 

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The idea is that before the crank speed missing tooth comes up, the ECU sees a trigger point telling it which cam cycle it is on. The EDGE OF THE TOOTH is the trigger point, and in the case above digital falling is when the sensor sees the edge of the tooth fall away (so the trailing edge in the direction of rotation). The half-moon is just one really long single tooth.

With a Hall Effect sensor, think of the signal as looking exactly like the toothed or half-moon wheel, where the base circle is 0V and the raised tooth (half moon section) are 5V or 12V (depending on the sensor and ECU). So rising and falling are the same physically and electrically.

So in the example above, Danny is telling him to put the center of the SENSOR on the falling edge of the half-moon raised area, then set the software to look for that falling edge (if you had it looking for the rising edge it would take another crank rotation before it would see it!). Holley wants this signal to be at least 50 crank degrees (at least 8 teeth) before the missing tooth.

So once you've got your 60-2 crank wheel phased per the instructions, turn the engine back at least 50* before the missing tooth passes the sensor (which should be around 60* BTDC) and that will put you at least 110* BTDC. Now line up one edge of the cam position half-moon with the center of the sensor itself, and then choose which edge you lined up in the software (rising or falling).

Hope that is helpful.
 

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The alignment tool isn't necessary for aftermarket (Holley) EFI.
I have always used the tool and never had an issue. Put the engine where it needs to be, put the cap on the cam sensor to lock it in position, and install it into the block.
 

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The reason it isn't necessary is the aftermarket ECUs have a wide range where seeing the cam sensor trigger event will work, whereas an OEM application is looking for it to be very close to a certain value (the designed use of the tool). It's not that you shouldn't use it, it just isn't really needed as long as the event is between 110-250* BTDC ignition (for Holley, per their literature).
 

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Danny,
On a Ford small block normally aspirated application with CNP, how effective would using the Holley Universal Cam Sync, Part Number 556-123 in lieu of a cam sync distributor?
I am considering it for a new SBF race engine that has a Jesel Belt.
 

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They both accomplish the same thing. The engine will run the same with either cam sync sensor.
 
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