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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I degreed my cam today. 454+.030 with small dome pistons .100cc 148 oval heads 112cc Chambers 9.2 in comp.
Cam is Lunati 60211

http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpec.aspx?p=60211

Checked it both for intake centerline and valve opening.
Intake centerline was as the card 106 when I checked it. Max lift .020 before and after
80+132/2=106

The valve opening at .050 was 2.5 degrees of
In open 2 degrees BTDC
In Closes 35 degrees ABDC
2+35+180=117 so .050 dur is 217?

Ex open 50 degrees BBDC
Ex Closes 6 degrees ATDC
-6+50+180=224 so 050 duration is 224? Or is it 6+50+180=236?
Why do I get differnt 050 numbers than the cam card?

Shall I levae the cam as it is now? Or advance it?

Marcus
 

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Always rotate in one direction. Have some kind of resistance on the camso the chain is always tight while being driven. Always creep up on the .050 lift while turning in the driven manner. If you miss the number back it up way past and rotate again in the driven direction. (usually cw) should be .050 either side of the nose not .020
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Problem solved it was the tool I used that gave me slightly late readings cause it isnt same shape as the lifter(thanks Mike Lewis for the suggestion to try direct on the lifter). When I checked on the lifter body they where spot on. I used one of this.


Marcus
 

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we only use the round nose deal for a original set up...but when actual putting it together for the fifth time in order to check actual degrees as well as actual piston to valve.. we use ALL of the actual pieces / lifters / pushrods / rockers.....GASKETS....

actually the the use of that "tool" should have just made opening late and closing early.. if the nose was slightly smaller than the actual lifter...
 

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you CAN still use it to get accurate ext closing and intake opening


..during the overlap phase if it is at split overlap..

but as said.. we do not use it for much of anything else

aslo as you know, if the roller wheel is larger as if it was a .904' setup.. then it will be a LOT more off.....

it is GREAT that you now know the differences as well as understand what I have been preaching for years and years....
 

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The image is missing, we’re you using a lifter bore tool with dial indicator ? Those aren’t as accurate as going off the actual lifter? I’m using one of those tools for my .903 lifters , I had to advance it 4 degrees for it to come out to 108.5 using the ICL method . Should I be checking it the old way with a magnetic stand and pushrod n dial indicator or will the ICL be the same and only the actual events differ cause of the size of the wheel Being used?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The image is missing, we’re you using a lifter bore tool with dial indicator ? Those aren’t as accurate as going off the actual lifter? I’m using one of those tools for my .903 lifters , I had to advance it 4 degrees for it to come out to 108 hai f the ICL method . Should I be checking it the old way with a magnetic stand and pushrod n dial indicator or will the ICL be the same and only the actual events differ cause of the size of the wheel Being used?
Thread is 9 years old.
Yes I used a tool, learned to always use the actually lifter or st least same size wheel. The tool is never correct imo.
 

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Thread is 9 years old.
Yes I used a tool, learned to always use the actually lifter or st least same size wheel. The tool is never correct imo.
My cam card said to advance it 4 degrees to start with , I started straight up just too see and it was 112.75, then I went 2 more and it was 110.5 , went two more and it was 108.5, pretty much what card said it should be , I did read if checking cam timing events then the tool isn’t as accurate cause od the size of wheel cam was ground for, in my case .903, and my tool is for .842/.875, I bought a bigger o ring for it to sit tight in my bigger bore and it’s solid .
 
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