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Discussion Starter #1
Im building my first C4 here and need a little insight. My main question is should the High/Reverse drum be able to move slightly when the endplay setup? My endplay is .013 but if I try to add a thicker selective #1 washer I have no enplay what so ever. Thanks in advance.
 

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Im building my first C4 here and need a little insight. My main question is should the High/Reverse drum be able to move slightly when the endplay setup? My endplay is .013 but if I try to add a thicker selective #1 washer I have no enplay what so ever. Thanks in advance.
I like the end play tighter than .010 myself, the tighter you make it the better the line pressure is all the way around.

My AOD ended op at .005 when I finally found the Black washer to try out.

The OEM units are like .050 or more sometimes.

Same thing for manual units, I used to set up T-5 units with a slight preload but OEM

they were all over the place and loose.
 

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Billy438Stroker
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Ok to explain.. #1 is the plastic wsher on the back of the pump. It has nothing
to do with overall endfloat...
#2 is the small washer on the end of the stator support.. It is the one to govern
overall endfloat . If you want to check assemble everything in the case ,hi/rev
drum can be left out at this stage. Put an old pump gasket on and bolt the pump
down with a couple bolts. Now take a reading.Repeat this till you get the correct endfloat.
The #2 washer you have found now is the one then that will stay.. Remove the pump
and fwd drum from the case. On the bench now with the back side of the pump
facing up,fit the hi/rev and forward drums over it with the #2 small washer in place.
No #1 washer is fitted yet..
Now take the whole assy and flip it over so the pump is now upwards and fwd drum
is down on the bench. Look between the hi/rev drum and the pump and there will be
a gap between say .060" to maybe .120" or more sometimes.. Find a # 1 plastic
thrust that is a snug fit in there. Thats it. Hope that clears it up.
The shims are available from trans parts places
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok to explain.. #1 is the plastic wsher on the back of the pump. It has nothing
to do with overall endfloat...
#2 is the small washer on the end of the stator support.. It is the one to govern
overall endfloat . If you want to check assemble everything in the case ,hi/rev
drum can be left out at this stage. Put an old pump gasket on and bolt the pump
down with a couple bolts. Now take a reading.Repeat this till you get the correct endfloat.
The #2 washer you have found now is the one then that will stay.. Remove the pump
and fwd drum from the case. On the bench now with the back side of the pump
facing up,fit the hi/rev and forward drums over it with the #2 small washer in place.
No #1 washer is fitted yet..
Now take the whole assy and flip it over so the pump is now upwards and fwd drum
is down on the bench. Look between the hi/rev drum and the pump and there will be
a gap between say .060" to maybe .120" or more sometimes.. Find a # 1 plastic
thrust that is a snug fit in there. Thats it. Hope that clears it up.
The shims are available from trans parts places
Thats whats odd here. After some google searches I found those EXACT directions and following them. I had this thing apart 15 times last night. I understand the #1 selective is supposed to not have anything with endfloat but it will sure close the gap to .000 if I throw in a thicker #1. My .013 is without the High/Reverse drum in place and dial indicator on the input shaft. Should the High/Reverse drum have any movement after setup? When I say movement I dont mean a lot just enough to say shes not snug.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes the high/ reverse will move whatever the endfloat is . The #1 as selected should be a snug fit .
Thanks Greg. I also noticed something else that has me a little worried. If you look at the (tabs) on the end of the shell you will see the high/rev drum is not going far enough into the shell. I had it apart several times again last night and thinking the piston in the forward drum may be causing some clearance issues. The piston is a very tight fit and you cannot move it by hand while in the bore. The TCI kit I bought has an oring for the inner piston seal and what I took off was a square cut.
 

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Billy438Stroker
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5,634 Posts
I do see the clearance between the direct drum and plastic washer changing, because when you have the pump laying on the table and sit the direct drum and fwd drum on the stator/pump, Your gona have say .012 like some I do .... But after you bolt the pump to the case, that will change for 1 reason! You have the pump gasket , which is .015 thick.... So' if I'm looking at this right, That will change the direct to plastic washer .027.....
 
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