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Discussion Starter #1
I am curious I bought the steve morris video and realize he used shims to make the brpv com on later. Where do you get those shims? If you want to make the brpv come in sooner where can you get softer springs or can you double up the power valve gaskets to shim out the power valve? Just another crazy thought since the csu power valve is fully adjustable can I just buy 2 of those? I saw the thread on brent davis power valves is that the way to go? There seems to be many ways to skin a cat i just want one that is good for the street at 12lbs of boost. Thanks for the great web site I usually spend hours looking for the answers so I dont repost
 

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Just use small washers to shim it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok trying to simplify things if anyone could give me some input. Can i merely get different spring from different power valves to change with the ones C&S supplied,anyone know if that would work?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well this may sound stupid but is there a way to tell which spring is in my power valves now? I cant thank you guys enough for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I guess a better question would be if my total boost is 12 lbs and this is a street car which spring should I use(from what power valve).
 

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Street car ?

BRPVs and a blower on the street is not always the way to go . I would try a standard PV in the primary and jet the secondary up . Alot of times you will go lean just before boost with a blower and BRPVs on the street at low boost levels .

Now the OTHER ones you mention work very well . If your using an air pump or CO2 to open the PVs then you know for sure when they are open . If you have a boost switch referenced at the hat to trigger the PVs you can get them , or it , to open while the motor is still in vac just before boost . Or you can open them later with an adjustment on the boost switch without having to take the bowls off .. If you just so happen to have a 7531 box , you can open them anytime you want at any vac or boost number with a click of the mouse .

This works ! Its just weather you want to rely on that outside air source working every time . You have to have faith . And if your car is quiet , you will hear the air pump running if thats the method you choose . Can be annoying for some guys .

I have a warning light that comes on if there is boost in the manifold and there is no air to the PVs .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My car is kinda noisy It does go lean until the boost comes in thats why I thought if I got the brpv to open sooner... Also the carb builder Roger told me to keep the carb square(all jets the same) I know what you are saying about the air pump but I would not hear it and I am trying to simplify things. Fuel injection sounds better all the time. BUt theres complication in itsel although the projectionIII sounds interesting.
 

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You have 2 BRPVs ?

If your only using one in the primary , you will have to jet up the secondary .

Is it just a wideband number your looking at or is it something you can feel ?
 

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If it is lean before and as in comes into boost, you need to go up on the main jet all the way around. If that fixes it but it is still rich at cruise, open out the idle air bleeds. What jets do you have in it now and what is the serial number off the carb?

Feel free to give me a call at 636-723-4996 and I will be happy to answer any more questions you may have.
-Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow was I happy to talk to Roger He is "the man" at C&S. For a while he had a phone answer man named Mark and now that he is gone I will trash him, he was rude and of no help to me which is why I turned to the forums for help. Thanks to all the responses I got and special thanks to Steve Morris. Roger informed me to up my jet size and this will help with going lean on rolling into the throttle.If the motor gets too rich under cruise with the bigger jets open up the size of the idle air bleeds. Before mark Roger had helped me with many tuning issues he was always informative and patient even if I wasn't spending a fortune with him. ROGER IT'S GOOD TO HAVE YOU BACK THANKS!!!!!!!! Mike He also informed me the only reason you would not want to go square in jetting is after a run and checking all 8 plugs if the was a fuel distribution problem then staggering the jets at that point would help.I hope this post helps others.
 

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Keep us informed .

I hope that cures your problem . You never said what the motor was doing when it was " lean " . Did it stumble , or are you talking about WB numbers ? I can tell you that my carb has 68 / 70 jetting and does not have a lean stumble going into boost .

I'm curious .......... what your jetting is now . Does it have 2 BRPVs ? and what size are the PVCRs .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
my wideband said it was lean there is not a stumble. My jetting is 74 square. It does have 2 brpv's the pvcr's are 63+52. When I mentioned that to Roger he said that is a good place to start. My wife has just finished her last chemo and beat hodgkin"s stage 3b so we have not had the car out to test it, the copilot reads the afr's under boost situations
 

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If it goes into boost without a stumble , hesitation , shutter , or anything else , then I wouldnt worry about what the WB says . IMO the only AFRs you should be worried about is in boost . Tune the car out of boost the old fashion way .......... seat of pants .

also out of curiosity ....... how lean does it get .
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Seat of pants feels great! I have no money left, did not want to hurt anything. A little paranoid I guess. Afr's were 15's then boost 12's. Cruise between 12-13. Thanks It also turns out the idle air bleeds are on the main body pressed in so I dont even know how to mess with that, drills maybe? N/A was much easier but not as much fun!
 

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If you have good throttle response and everything feels good off idle , I wouldnt touch the idle air bleeds .

If you can live with the slightly rich cruise and the gas mileage , then I would just open up the pvcrs to get the WOT afrs down some more .


JMO
 
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