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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much HP can I put thru these Competition Engineering ladder bars? I have these on the car now. What would make you nervous? I'm building a new rear end, so now is the time to upgrade ladder bars / brackets. I've been building everything with a 1500hp goal/limit in mind. They do have a lifetime warranty, but I sure don't want to break one either.





Thanks
Craig
 

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Heavy car, lots of HP, ladder bar suspension...............
1" OD tubing seems really small to me IMO.

If this were mine, at a min I'd use 1-1/4" OD tubing and very likely 1-3/8" OD with the best heims on the rears and a solid hiem up front.

Why not set it up for a four-link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
4-links not allowed for the class I'm going to run.

I'm building new adjustable ladder bars out of 1-3/8" moly and the baddest heims / rod eyes I can buy. Just trying to get some housing brackets laser cut now.

Craig
 

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Good !!
 

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Heavy car, lots of HP, ladder bar suspension...............
1" OD tubing seems really small to me IMO.

If this were mine, at a min I'd use 1-1/4" OD tubing and very likely 1-3/8" OD with the best heims on the rears and a solid hiem up front.

Why not set it up for a four-link?
Solid heim up front???
Never seen it done that way. I use solids on the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What about the RJ pro ladder bars?????????

They look very nicely put together........

360* rear brackets......

That was my original plan, actually TRZ makes some really nice strong ladder bars that are similar to RJ's. Unfortunately, the way my floor pan is, it won't clear that bend in the top tube and leave me much if any room for suspension travel. I'd have to re-do my floor pan.....again. So what started as a simple phone call to order new bars and brackets has evolved into fabricating custom housing brackets and custom bars. PITA. Hopefully it'll be worth the hassle.

Jeff,
I don't see why you couldn't use a solid rod eye up front IF you used a wishbone. The side-side movement with a track bar would probably put a rod eye in a bind though.

Craig
 

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The solid fronts from Alston are complimented with a step washer on each side that actually does the pivoting in the bracket. I really like them and use the same setup. I see no real need for a sperical on the front unless there is a torsional movement of the ladderbars. I feel a well designed set wont have any of that though. A ladder bar system should only pivot on one axis and no other. Nothing wrong with sperical bearings on the front I just like the durability of the solids. Especially with the 1" shank solids Alston uses on the front. Just be sure Craig when building your ladder bars that you place your intersecting tubes over the threaded weld bungs and not behind them on the front.
 

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I have never seen the car built yet, that over time does not flex and bend and bind on something. (rear ends bend no matter the brace, frames will take a set). Count me out on solid ends Heims are cheap, no more often than you have to change them. You will spend a lot more money on fixing a binding problem you cant find than a Heim cost. Plus I like the Idea of controlled rotation in a Hiem, more than on a loose bracket so a solid can rotate on top of a wearing bolt.

I am not talking about those cheap assed heims that come in kits that Keep the price down.
 

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I use a 7/8 x 3/4 56,000 lb. static load rodend on the front of the Ladder Bars I build. I have seen alot of bent 3/4 x 3/4 rodends over the years.

But I have used the Alston ladder bars previously and no problems with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I use a 7/8 x 3/4 56,000 lb. static load rodend on the front of the Ladder Bars I build. I have seen alot of bent 3/4 x 3/4 rodends over the years.

But I have used the Alston ladder bars previously and no problems with them.
Jeff, where do you get those? Or, more importantly, where do I get tube ends for the 7/8" thread? I saw RJ has some 7/8x3/4 but only in left hand and they were high $$$. I'd love to use them though on the front heims.

Craig
 
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