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www.ULTRA-CARBON.com
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I currently have a Rodeck SBC aluminum block, very happy with it. Wondering how the Brodix aluminum SBC blocks compare. What are the good points and the bad points of these? What should I look out for or be aware of when looking to buy one. What kind of power level are they good up to?
 

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We have used many over the years. Haven't had any problems yet. Mostly have used them on late model dirt engines in the 8-900 hp range. Have use a few in drag race type aps, with out any problems. Most important with any block is to check everything before useing, line hone, decks, lifter bores, cam bearings, oil gallies, threads, bores, crank to block clearance etc. just check everything then check again.
 

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I used a Brodix aluminum block in my Outlaw car it was solid alum with water in the heads only. Beat the crap out of it with about 2500hp twin 88mm turbos and 43 psi never had any problems.
 

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I have one in a street car at 427ci. Probably as strong or stronger than any of the alum. blocks out there and a lot more affordable also.
 

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After hearing what Mr Hockey had to deal with I wouldn't use that block.
Before you make your mind up on what is spoken on this site, you might call Brodix and get the whole story. You are not getting the full story from Mr. Hockey. The rod broke in the engine and damaged the block then he had his own person do the repair not Brodix. Then he is mad because Brodix will not take care of it now that the repair was not done correctly.
 

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Drag Week Survivor
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Before you make your mind up on what is spoken on this site, you might call Brodix and get the whole story. You are not getting the full story from Mr. Hockey. The rod broke in the engine and damaged the block then he had his own person do the repair not Brodix. Then he is mad because Brodix will not take care of it now that the repair was not done correctly.

I'm not going by what is spoken on this site. I know him personally, i've heard his story first hand and based on the original problem I would not be using that particular block. I have no need or want to hash this out with you or anyone else. It's not my fight and I stand behind my opinion that I would not use that block.

Also I have never heard Marc "bash" Brodix here or in person.
 

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Thanks "Honk". Also a little pissed that when Brodix tried to fix the block that had core shifted somehow they didn't take the time to see where the hole was actually at before they plunged an oversize bit into it so they could add larger sleeves resulting in a larger hole as well as part of another several thousandths away, thus rendering what was a block that was down on power via cylinder distortion but usable, totally JUNK.
Don't forget about the 5 sleeves that were original Brodix sleeves in their original holes that somehow didn't have enough press fit in them suddenly after 27 1/8th mile passes and a few 1/4 mile passes, at least attempted passes as noted in my log book. Somehow when that GRP rod hit the bottom of the 5 and 6 sleeve it had enough speed and power to shift the cylinders and mess up those 5 sleeves, but Brodix will try to tell you that my guys either slammed those sleeves back in cold after the repair to 5 and 6 or they didn't remove them at all.
Not bashing, just the facts. Stick with an iron block or fill the aluminum block to the top, and for gods sake don't get it repaired by anyone other than Brodix, not Fulton, Allen Johnson, NOBODY, because that will give them an out to point fingers.
Thanks for ruining months of therapy. Dart Iron Eagle TTF!
Marc
Schankweiler
 

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Oh yeah if you do some internet research you will find some reputable engine builders that aren't happy. PM me for more information and names if you want.
 

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i sold one to a fellow years ago when they first came out ('99 IIRC?)..sent it to ODDYS for machine work and assembly..he had never seen one yet at the time,but was very happy with quality.

but like a said...that was years ago....


alan
 

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www.ULTRA-CARBON.com
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the input fellas. I wasn't trying to start a way or open old wounds. Was just thinking about building a spare aluminum short block. Saw a Brodix for sale for $1500 in the buy/sell section and wondered if I should do it. Guess I'll hold out til a Rodeck comes along.
 

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I have a 9.300 brodix block never been hurt still at 4.135 bore and i split it from the mains to the deck on 5 out of the 8 holes block is now scrap alum.
i guess i should take pics of it for you to see they split from the main stud bolts up as I am a engine builder and this is my personal engine Brodix says they may help me out with this since its never been hurt one can only hope since i don't have the 4k to buy another one. I still think its the best block in the business as for as cast blocks go but just not enough material between the sleeves just I guess there not made for Nitrous engines.
 
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