Not really worried since its been 2 years but some say no way a wheel should be welded. I'm bitching because I paid for new wheels not scabbed together wheels. Probably the worst part is the reason I bought new was because I bought used and found a weld on them and didn't think it was the best idea to run a welded wheel. Also a heads up to check over even brand new shit.
I cleaned up the wheels real good and the other one has 3 small spots like that. Looks like melt through from were the halves are welded together. I didn't break them down since screws are already in but pretty confident that is what happened. Looks like I may have jumped the gun but still never seen anything like this. Hopefully a call Monday morning will clear this up.
That's what I've always thought to. I don't think it was cracked I think it was just melt through from welding the 2 halves together. I didn't break the tire down to look but pretty sure that's what it is.
Brake dust. I run aerospace engineering dual rear calipers, and they create a shit ton of dust. The wheel drums are formed, and they must have found a split during the inspection process. I'm really surprised they could cert a repaired wheel. Gonna have a look and my Sanders wheels today.
Ok my brother has a 496 BBC in race has been fighting a ignition pop. Changed magnetic pickup on crank trigger with .050 gap, wheel in going right direction, rotor is in phase, checked grounds, changed plugs, cranked car in pitch dark to see if anything was arcing on plug wires and nothing. Fuel...
as title states
over weekend we tried out the car i put together over the winter for the wife to index race with and it went 7.20's at 95mph trapped 5500 rpm , i was curious what is roughly the rpm gain going to the 1/4 mile ? Local track we will be racing at is 1/4 mile but not open yet
Currently using a Simpson Hybrid that is a few years old. Want to upgrade to something newer this year for myself and or my son who is about the same size. What are you using,and what do you recommend?