[Gitdowns]

Is there a better tubing than just auto parts tubing? Using an Eastwood 37* double flair tool and the tubing splits on the outside edge of flair.

 

[XSPSI]

Cunifer/NiCopp: 3/16"/4.75mm OD tubing x 25 foot coil copper nickel brake line

Prep is the key...just make sure the ends are square, deburred, smooth and clean.

 

[SMJr]

Your not trying to double flare stainless tubing are you? It won’t work and only requires a single 37* flare with a tubing nut. Any 37* flare will always be a single flare with a tubing nut. A drop of oil beneath the flaring cone will also help make smooth flares.

 

[Gitdowns]

I have a good deburing tool, its the coated type steel tubing. I thought all brake tubing had to be double flaired.

 

[SMJr]

45* flares for steel tubing should be double flared. Stainless steel tubing is nearly impossible to double flare without cracking. 37* flares used on steel/stainless only require a single flare backed up by a tubing nut inside the hydraulic nut. 👍

 

[Gitdowns]

Everything i have ever been told or read says ALL brake line must be double flaired since it is high preasue.

 

[rickbr]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B085GG7KZP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title l just used this bent really nice and so far so good.

 

[Eman85]

All brake line I've used is double flared. I will use NiCop line whenever possible it's so much easier to work with and no corrosion problems on street cars.

 

[DualQuadDave]

You want serious brake line, the stainless from online tube is insanely strong. Makes anything else you buy look like china dogshit. Warning, you will need a serious flaring tool, like a Master Cool.

 

[onslaught]

I can buy a lot of $5 double flares from my local brake shop for the cost of a proper flaring tool that can replicate that same flare.

 

[BigLar368]

You want serious brake line, the stainless from online tube is insanely strong. Makes anything else you buy look like china dogshit. Warning, you will need a serious flaring tool, like a Master Cool.

This is what I used when I built the brake set-up on my car. The burst rating was 10K PSI. All my lines are 1/4 and they are double flared. I had one of those high dollar tools that did not work worth a shit. Maybe I was using it wrong. I borrowed a cheap KD Tools double flare kit and had zero problems flaring the ends. I did have one or two flares crack but it was always something I did wrong. Till this day zero leaks.

 

[GTAShief]

I can buy a lot of $5 double flares from my local brake shop for the cost of a proper flaring tool that can replicate that same flare.

That's understandable. Some don't want any junctions in their brake lines though. 😉

 

[app01]

You want serious brake line, the stainless from online tube is insanely strong. Makes anything else you buy look like china dogshit. Warning, you will need a serious flaring tool, like a Master Cool.

Did you mean Inline tube? If so I had them make some SS brake lines and 1/2" SS Fuel line for my 70 Mustang and it was excellent.

 

[DualQuadDave]

Did you mean Inline tube? If so I had them make some SS brake lines and 1/2" SS Fuel line for my 70 Mustang and it was excellent.

Correct, Inline tube. I use their stuff in all my builds. It works for sure

 

[onslaught]

That's understandable. Some don't want any junctions in their brake lines though. 😉

I might have misunderstood but what I meant was, I prebend all my lines and let the man at the brake shop flare the ends rather than doing it myself.

Used to be 2 bucks a flare.

 

[GTAShief]

I might have misunderstood but what I meant was, I prebend all my lines and let the man at the brake shop flare the ends rather than doing it myself.

Used to be 2 bucks a flare.

Oh. Gotcha.

 

[Kenny B.]

Steel brake tubing is manufactured from a flat piece of steel that is rolled into a tube and fused,much like the way common chassis tubing and exhaust tubing is made. It requires a double flare to prevent leaks at the point where the seam is.

Stainless steel tubing is a DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) product,and has no seam. A proper 37º flaring tool will only form the flare without squeezing the flare any thinner,making it equally as strong as a double flare on steel tubing,when used with a tube nut behind it.