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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a stock block 383 using two foggers a 32 and a 24 jet. I am looking to upgrade my block and gain some cubes. I can get a smoking deal on a Bowtie Block and make a 421 out of it. Is this block any better than a stock block? It has 350 mains and Billet caps. Is a Dart block that much better. I am trying to get in the 5.50 range, I am close now, but feel I will need the cubes and maybe spray it a little harder. Thanks for the input.
 

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SOFA KING WHAT?
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The Bow-Tie block will handle quite a bit more than the stock block. Our 410 combo has been 5.62/123 @ 3100 + lbs on an 82 jet with 23 dgeree heads, you should be able to run 5.20's with a 32 and 24 jets in 2 foggers on a 421 as long as the rest of the parts are there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im at a tick over 3400 race weight me in it. I know it's heavy it's getting a big tgime diet over the winter. I am just hoping for 5.50 to stay competetive around here, but 5.2's would be great. I know my Pontiac raised runner heads are hurting me right now, but will still probably stay with 23* stuff as it seems to be easier for me to tune. I figured if I could make the stock block live, then a Bowtie block should stay alive too. So $400 fresh from the machine shop sound like a good deal? Thanks.
 

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That sounds like a killer deal for a bowtie block like Drag Radial said i dont see a problem with mid 20
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You guys gonna help me pick out the rest of the parts in it?..lol Heads cam etc? I think I am just about at the limit for my current combo and knowledge...lol actually probably beyond my knowledge
 

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SOFA KING WHAT?
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Yes between Enrique and I and a few more guys we can help you out and keep another 23 degree brother from turning to the darkside! LOL
 

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EFI/N2O JUNKIE
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$400 for a fresh Bowtie block? What happened to it? I spent $3000 for mine years ago! If he has more, let us know!
 

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I can give you the run down on mine if you want. It made 767 @ 7600 on nuts after running it all season. 23 degree here also. Probably real close to 800 when it's fresh. And I'm with the other guys, that's a steal on the block.
 

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SOFA KING WHAT?
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I can give you the run down on mine if you want. It made 767 @ 7600 on nuts after running it all season. 23 degree here also. Probably real close to 800 when it's fresh. And I'm with the other guys, that's a steal on the block.
How are you running this year? I know last year you kinda hit a wall on the ET gain after changing some stuff around.
 

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Man, that's a steal on that bowtie block. I've been kind of keeping my eyes out for one myself. Let me know if you find any other deals like that. And I'm not too sure what it equates to or if it means much to you, but there's a guy around here with a 23 degree procharged aluminum bowtie block running high 7's in the 1/4 mile. fast enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah this is a great deal. He was gonna put it in a sn95 car and got a smoking deal on a Boss block 347. HHe aid it was in his way. I am having the machine shop check everything first.

OK so what do I need. I run 275's most of the time. I have a very worked set of Pontiac 867 raised runner heads, a Comp cam Solid roller, Jesel shaft rockers. I normally run JE pistons, and haven't had a problem yet. So what stroke and rod should I use. I think I have a cheapy Ohio crank now and Callies CompStar 6"rods. I run a pg and have a custom Neal Chance Converter. Will the heads do? what's a good cam, and I guess I should buy custom pistons for a better ring package? Thanks for the help guys. Money for the most part will not be the issue, but with that being said I am not going to drop an ignorant amount of money on parts b/c the thrown together stuff I have now works well enough I know I don't have too. No need for a set of Boggs heads or nothing...lol
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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thats a crazy steal for the block..def get it checked out..for cracks in the webbings and stuff..shit if its fine and you get it for 400$ thats just nuts..i thought i got a deal on a rocket block one time for 1k..lol
 

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How are you running this year? I know last year you kinda hit a wall on the ET gain after changing some stuff around.

I finally found the damn problem after searching for 3 years. Believe it or not, the rear caliper was slid over to the inside too far on both of the back brakes, not letting the inner piston disengage when I let off the brakes. So for the last three years I been running with the rear brakes on. Man I feel like a dumbass!!!! They were engaged so much that if you had the rear tires off the ground and the car running in gear it wouldn't even rotate the tires. Had to give it gas, and when you let off they would stop instantly! Guess that explains why the car never would mph.

Went out to try it and found the Edelbrock controller won't run 6 solenoids ..... got a piston and a head gasket. Got it all back together tonight, going to drop the motor in tomorrow and may go test tomorrow night.
 

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I finally found the damn problem after searching for 3 years. Believe it or not, the rear caliper was slid over to the inside too far on both of the back brakes, not letting the inner piston disengage when I let off the brakes. So for the last three years I been running with the rear brakes on. Man I feel like a dumbass!!!! They were engaged so much that if you had the rear tires off the ground and the car running in gear it wouldn't even rotate the tires. Had to give it gas, and when you let off they would stop instantly! Guess that explains why the car never would mph.

Went out to try it and found the Edelbrock controller won't run 6 solenoids ..... got a piston and a head gasket. Got it all back together tonight, going to drop the motor in tomorrow and may go test tomorrow night.
glad you got it all figured out...let us know how it runs 2mrrw....thanks
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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I finally found the damn problem after searching for 3 years. Believe it or not, the rear caliper was slid over to the inside too far on both of the back brakes, not letting the inner piston disengage when I let off the brakes. So for the last three years I been running with the rear brakes on. Man I feel like a dumbass!!!! They were engaged so much that if you had the rear tires off the ground and the car running in gear it wouldn't even rotate the tires. Had to give it gas, and when you let off they would stop instantly! Guess that explains why the car never would mph.

Went out to try it and found the Edelbrock controller won't run 6 solenoids ..... got a piston and a head gasket. Got it all back together tonight, going to drop the motor in tomorrow and may go test tomorrow night.
man its always the little things that fuckin get you..i remember your threads on the car and stuff..i wonder what it would of ran with your 867s then..
 

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I finally found the damn problem after searching for 3 years. Believe it or not, the rear caliper was slid over to the inside too far on both of the back brakes, not letting the inner piston disengage when I let off the brakes. So for the last three years I been running with the rear brakes on. Man I feel like a dumbass!!!! They were engaged so much that if you had the rear tires off the ground and the car running in gear it wouldn't even rotate the tires. Had to give it gas, and when you let off they would stop instantly! Guess that explains why the car never would mph.

Went out to try it and found the Edelbrock controller won't run 6 solenoids ..... got a piston and a head gasket. Got it all back together tonight, going to drop the motor in tomorrow and may go test tomorrow night.
Converter/line pressure had nothing to do with it?
 

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what are the details on the block ? how old, what bore, what main, what lifter bore? what is the deck at ? you bringing it to the next fontana race ?

Yes i can bring it to the next fontana race. Not sure how old probadly 5 years, standard cam,std deck,842 lifter bores. i think its 4.170 bore but needs to be bored out and cleaned up. was racing it last weekend, I have the crank,rods and pistons if interested. 3.750 stroke,6" rod,ross pistons. I have been 8.73 ET with this short block 410ci. I will post pic later Shawn 702-355-3670
 
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