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your only seeing the rust hole from the outside . back side there will be more rust pitts so you will end up past the rot holes till there good steel to weld on. new steel is the right way . other then that clean the steel up good, then tap in the metal. fill with marglass push the glass as far up past the rot hole till filled . when done stand trunk lid lip side down then under coat the hell out of it use a under coat the will not dry out .clean out drain holes doing a fix like this may last one year to five
 

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Non Timebo Mala
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeh I know the rust usually goes farther up in, there are fairly large openings in the bottom of these ( the rust isn't very far past the holes luckily), The original deck lid is nearly rust free but one side is so bent up that it would be hard to fix, so patches can be cut from that one I would think.
 

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Former RJ instigator
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I'm sorry for a $100 and a two hour drive I'd had to pass on that one, from the looks of it, you're just going to be polishing a turd.

Media blasting it will show how bad it really is.
 

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Non Timebo Mala
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm sorry for a $100 and a two hour drive I'd had to pass on that one, from the looks of it, you're just going to be polishing a turd.

Media blasting it will show how bad it really is.
The lip area is the only bad rust on the lid the bottom side is nice and still has all the factory paint, and it's a hard piece to find, I'm in the process of finding someone local to media blast it.

I'd rather straighten a bent one than put a bunch if time in a rusted one.
The bent one is bent in the hinge area and the whole driver side at the back is caved straight in from hitting a tree. local body guy said I'd be better off finding another one and fixing any rust, when I first wrecked the car. plus I need a straight one anyway to realign the 1/4 and the area behind the bumper.
 

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After 6 months of looking, I’d go get it. It’ll be a pain to fix, but if you don’t have one and have been waiting 6 months, you don’t have much of a choice.
Ive been looking for about 12 years for a deck lid for my 67 cyclone..
 

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If you gota do it then after you fix the rust holes get some frame rust killer and coat from Eastwood comes with long spray tubes to get into the rusted areas Great stuff for those hard to reach places.
 

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if you can find someone that can dip it in a tank to rem the rust, you would be better off-you have to find good metal that will take a weld-I have cut up two trunks to make one, working the underside is rough
I have used muriatic acid and dipped stuff in, removes rust, but don't do it inside, or near anything you don't want getting surface rust, lol
 

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Where in North Carolina are you? Im in Burlington. That deck lid can be dipped, media blasted all in town here IF you want that done. I can fix that one PROPERLY for you to use. DR
 

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El Diablo
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Don't try to fix each hole. Cut the entire lip off at the body line and replace it.
If he needs an opinion about a hole, do you really think you gave him good advise? No offense to the OP, but I don't think he's ready to remove the whole lip of the hood and replace it correctly without warping the sheetmetal, metal finishing, etc.
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In this case, I would replace the immediate areas of damage with rectangular patches to retain the correct placement of the hood sheetmetal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where in North Carolina are you? Im in Burlington. That deck lid can be dipped, media blasted all in town here IF you want that done. I can fix that one PROPERLY for you to use. DR
Thanks for the offer I'm about 2 hours west in Wilkes county, I'll see how it goes here first.

if you can find someone that can dip it in a tank to rem the rust, you would be better off-you have to find good metal that will take a weld-I have cut up two trunks to make one, working the underside is rough
I have used muriatic acid and dipped stuff in, removes rust, but don't do it inside, or near anything you don't want getting surface rust, lol
The taking 2 to make one deal is what will probably happen this area has zero rust on my other one so it can be used for the major rust areas and the small places could be patched otherwise

If he needs an opinion about a hole, do you really think you gave him good advise? No offense to the OP, but I don't think he's ready to remove the whole lip of the hood and replace it correctly without warping the sheetmetal, metal finishing, etc.
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In this case, I would replace the immediate areas of damage with rectangular patches to retain the correct placement of the hood sheetmetal.
No offence taken friend, I'm still learning how to weld so you're right about me not being confident in doing something like that.



I appreciate everyone's advice, I wish I could have found a better one but sometimes you'll just have to deal with what you've got. I'll update on how it goes once I get it blasted.
 

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Were you trunk latch is located,take out the latch and there is a tool product that we used It is called Telescope Rust Finder, you can see what's on the other side for repair...Rust Never Sleeps:)
 
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