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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well the wagon build has officially started.
I'm no pro and this isn't built to be a dedicated race car. Just a really fun 1600hp street car that I can Race every weekend with cold a/c and kids strapped in the back.

Drove all the way to Arkansas to pick up a parts car for hard to find parts. Interior panels, glass, doors, chassis wiring, rear hatch, roof rack, window assemblies, etc. The wagon I'm picking up for the build is "drag car", all lexan, no inner doors, no interior, no roof rack, no functioning lights, no writers, etc. So it's cheaper and easier to buy a parts car. Did I mention I got it for $300? Would cost me $1600 to buy glass alone without a parts car so it was a smart decision. To bad there is no title and so much rust. I could have built this one...


Got it home and went to work removing what I need. The parts car has no title and the floors are completely rotted out so she's going to the scrapper after I'm done.


Removed the interior first with the help of my little buddy.


It all needs restoration and will be dyed afterwards. Undecided what color yet.


Here's a brief list of what it's got.
Adjustable struts and coil overs on the front, tubular k member, caster/camber plates, manual rack, solid adjustable upper/lower rear control arms, rear drag springs, 33? Spline Moser axles, spool, c clip eliminators?, removable steering wheel, etc.

Time to get to work. Gonna tear out the cage work, aluminum tin work, and strip this thing bare. I'm starting from scratch. Chopping off the front end from the strut towers forward, cutting out the floor, and parts of the firewall.


Mean green ugly machine


Interior shot. Going to utilize the donor wagon wiring harness integrated and cut down with my own harness to use with a sn95 dash and Fairmont steering column. Should be interesting.... cuz I'm going for a factory look.


From the back. All this shit is coming out too. Going to put a large fuel cell under the car and utilize the factory fuel door.

Ripped out most of the tin work




Got the dash and wiring out.


I'll be keeping the quick release hub but that's it from this steering column.


And you can see why I'm going to rip out the cage and start over. I'm undecided if I wanna build a 25.5 chassis or 25.3 it'd be easier to get the kids in and out of a 25.5 and 7.50 is probably faster then I'll ever go so I'll likely do a 25.5....


getting this bitch torn down to a shell. Going to chop the front end off, build a tubular front, and mount the shell on a rotisserie.




Got her completely torn apart. Only item left is suspension which I will remove once the rotisserie is built.




My project for tomorrow is to combine the driver front door from the parts car with the driver door from the green car.

The green door is gutted. And the parts car door is to damaged to repair. I'll be cutting out the inner door skin out of the parts car door and welding it into the green door so I can have a functioning window.




Got started on the inner door skin swap. I'm only taking what I need and eliminating any unnecessary sheetmetal.

Cut out the donor to size and held in place with clamps


Welded in place. Got half of it smoothed out already and squirted a little primer on it to prevent rust for now. Everything will be sand blasted later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Been doing a little nick nack work on the wagon. I'm currently filling all the factory tooling holes in the car and any other holes I run across so I can have a perfectly sealed cabin. I'm doing this for two reasons primarily. 1 I'm just anal like that. The factory used the holes for the machines to hold the sheetmetal while being spot welded together and it's more economical to use rubber plugs then to patch them. 2 I don't want any smoke entering the cabin during or after a burn out. It's the little details that no one will ever think about our see that matter to me.
Most people think all these plugs in the floor pans are water drain plugs but that is false..
I've done most on the driver side A, B, and C pillars and I'm starting the floor pans now. Picking up a tig welder/plasma cutter combo next week to do the passenger side and see how they compare.

Making plus from 18 gauge steel and utilizing tack welds to avoid any warpage.




















Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content


What is coming next it's pretty cool. Or at least I think it is. Since I need a new floor pan and a new Fox pan(which is a direct fit) is $600+ ive decided to source a sn95 car to pull one from. I'm doing the sn interior so center console brackets will already be in place, I'm moving the dash mounted e brake to the center console so the e brake location in the floor will be correct, and the e brake mount in the trans tunnel is already in place.

I just purchased a plasma cutter and a tig welder so this will be a fun project to break them in on. Should be here next week.
Fortunately Clayton has a sn parts car I'm getting the floor pan from in exchange for some labor. so I'll be chopping that one up to replace the wagon pan. I'll be doing through floor subframes at this time as well.

Here is a photo showing the differences between Fox and sn chassis. Red is sn95 only, white is exactly the same as Fox chassis, and yellow is sn vert only.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I haven't made much progress but I do have the donor floor pan 85% out of the mustang.

Only thing left to pull it is drilling out the spot welds that secure it to the frame rails and cutting the firewall. I'll be taking sir of the firewall with it just in case I need a little extra material.


View looking aft at the rear seat structure.


Driver side seem


I finally got around to filling my mig bottle and buying an argon bottle for the tig. Went ahead and purchased some tig consumables, tungsten, 4043 filler rod, and some er70s2 filler rod. It was an expensive day.


And I made a little tool for beating bearing races in to place. My first tig weld in many many years. I was a little kid the last time I had a tig torch in my hand and I must say this shit still isn't easy...
Mild steel 1 5/8" .120" wall tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Donor floor pan is out in one perfect piece. I left a little extra material on the front side so I could carefully break it apart at the seam working on the shop floor rather then in a cramped up mustang.


My son is there every step of the way. I left the frame rails from the mustang on the floor pan for now. I'll be removing those and completely sand blasting this floor pan before reinstalling in the wagon.


I used a 3/8" drill bit to remove the mustang pan because I didn't care about any sheetmetal behind the floor pan but I pulled out the spot weld kit to remove the wagon pan since I need to take special care not to drill through the frame rails. You can see in this pic it has subframe connectors. I'll be removing just before I go in with the new floor pan. It's helping to keep the structural integrity of the car right now. I'll be doing through flour subframes connectors after the new floor is complete


I played with the new plasma cutter to remove a few pieces of the old wagon pan to have free access to see what I'm working with without stopping, getting out of the car, and crawling under it to see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So there's alot of work to be done on this floor pan before going in the car...

Removing the frame rail from the driver side.


And the frame support doubler.


Frame rail removed. You can see the spot welds are not evenly spaced and are pretty random with no pattern. This leads me to believe they were done by hand and not a machine.


Now to drill off the forward section(firewall portion) that won't be used. I checked up some wood to prevent bending the metal while drilling. At this point my drill bit was getting a bit dull.


Peels right off after filling off the door welds.


Picked up some blasting media and time to clean up the bottom side


Got about 1/3 of the floor done before calling it quits for the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So after pulling a few measurements and thinking everything through in my head I've got a plan for the floor structure that we'll be 25.5 legal and be a hell of a lot stronger than factory.



The subframe connectors in there now will be coming out as well as the 1x2" cross brace that the previous owner added.


I found more rust in the rear seat brace so I'm going to have to build a new one from 2x3" tube
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got some metal for the subframes and floor structure. Using 2x2 .083, 2x3 .083 wall, and 1x4 that I still need to locate somewhere.


finally got all the tar mat off the floor pan. Next will be to finish working out a few dent and dings then filling all the unnecessary tooling holes.


Will be sand blasting both sides and giving a nice coat of 2k primer before installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got 18 holes in the floor pan patched up.


Down to bare metal and welds ground down.


And 2 coats of primer. I've still got more work to do on the floor pan but I wanted to get it in primer ASAP to prevent surface rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Slowly picking away at the wagon. I've got a 3 week vacation coming up soon so I'm hoping to get a good portion of the floor structure built and the floor pan reinstalled.

Getting ready to cut out some cancer and install a new patch panel. It's pretty rough.


And the patch panel. Still have a bit of body work to do on the panel before it's ready to cut to size and weld in.


I found a substantial amount of cancer in both rear seat pans so I've cut them out completely and I'll be building one from scratch. This will also allow me to brace the lower torque boxes internally and integrate them directly into the floor structure.


Chopped out the hunk of shit cross brace and subframe connectors.


I'll go ahead and mention the port work on the heads is complete. Sheppard did a kick ass job. I'll post pics once I get them in hand. Also getting a custom cam ground along with the springs, locks, retainers, etc. So other then $1500 rockers the top end of the motor will be pretty much compete. All I lack to get the bottom end together is pistons, pins, rings, and a few small items plus machine/balance
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally test fittingg the sn95 floor pan after removing the remaining pieces of roll cage from the door sills.


And now it's time to get started on the door sill structure. These will tie directly to the through floor subframe out riggers in the front and rear and I'll also tie them directly to the lower torque boxes.


Since no one makes 1.3"x4" .083" wall rectangle tube I'm making my own from 2"x4" .083" wall. This size will sit directly into the door sill structure perfectly. Everything cut out.


Doing a little sand blasting and prepping for some primer on the door sill structure.


Cut to length. After I cut down and weld it to the correct width it will sit flush and tie into the 1/8" plate with plug welds that the front outrigger will attach to. It slides in behind the lower torque box that I will also plug welds to. Then I'll run bracing from there.


Burned up my second 4.5" angle grinder making these cuts. Going to pick up a DeWalt 10amp grinder tomorrow that should be better suited for the work I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got a new angle grinder so I can continue. This thing has some balls for a 4.5" grinder. Notching out .63" from the center to get the 1.3" width I'm shooting for. Took into account the cutting wheel thickness..


Pretty nice fit up for 212" of cutting on both sides by hand.


Dead nuts 1.3" I'm happy with that.


And on to welding this thing back together. I would rather have tig welded this for more practice on tig but I'm out of argon so mig will do. Doesn't have to be pretty as it will all be ground off.


Capped both ends so I won't have to worry about moisture on the inside of these.


And all ground smooth. Time to mask it off and shoot it with 2k primer. The areas near welds I'll use weld through primer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Inside the door sill frame primed. And the reinforcement piece in primer where it won't be welded and weld through primer in areas near welds. Drilled several holes on the top and bottom of the door sills to add plug welds.


All burned in. After using the weld through primer I'll never use that shit again. Absolute bullshit!!! Took twice as long to weld due to weld impurities, popping, and bubbling welds! It's fucking worthless. Made the welds look like shit too.


Don't use this shit. $30 per can of bullshit. It's like trying to weld through a sheet of glass.


After cooling my temper I put a gauge on it to make sure nothing moved during the welding. Spot on 90* I'm happy with that despite the rough welding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Decided to tackle more rust repair before I start the passenger door sill structure.

It's not pretty...




Had to cut out a fairly large amount of material to get to clean metal.


I'm replacing this in 3 pieces. First piece in, cleaned, and primed.


View from the backside


And the second patch in on the A pillar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And I'm finally reaching the end of the passenger firewall. Turned out to be quite a bit of work.

Decided to take this in 4 pieces rather then 3 to make things a bit easier. Hand forming 18 gauge steel isn't easy without and English wheel, brake, or planishing hammer.


Final test fit before burning it in.


Hoping that by theme tune I'm done no one will ever be able to tell this area was patched.


And the last piece I like to call the airplane. Lol


Gonna burn it in and grind everything smooth tomorrow then on to my last patch before I start the passenger door sill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No major progress to report. Mark informed me that my springs, locks, keepers, etc have come in. Just waiting on the cam. Should be ordering pistons, oil pump, and lifter galley spacers very soon.

Now the wagon.
Buttoned up the driver firewall rust repair and squirted some rattle can primer on it to keep the rust out while I'm making other repairs and such. The whole car inside and out will be getting sand blasted one the chassis work is complete.


And an interesting finding that I didn't notice while I was doing the driver door sill is the inner rocker is galvanized. Nice job Ford. Didn't expect that.


The passenger door sill reinforcement has been built and I'm currently ready to weld it in. No pics cuz it's the same as the driver side pretty much.

I found this little nest inside the passenger sill.
Ended up pulling out about 5 pounds of crap farther back behind the torque box!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The final view of the wagon without a floor pan.


And the final view of the sn95 floor pan


After some tweaking I've started burning it in with plug welds. I am not attaching this floor pan like factory. This isn't a factory car anymore. I will be completely seam welding all the way around it along with the plug welds.


A look at how I've been pulling the floor pan to the existing structure. As you can see there is a 1/16" gap between the floor pan and the frame rail.


After drilling #10 holes in between each plug weld I fastened some draw clekos to draw the sheetmetal to the structure it is to be welded to.


And the floor pan is 100% complete. Tomorrow I'll be starting on the through floor subframe connectors. After all welding is complete in the floor area I may go back and grind down the plug welds...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sand blasted the rear torque boxes in preparation of welding In the frame rails.


Got the driver side burned in. Not the prettiest but it'll Damn sure do.


Coated the frame rails and torque box structure with zinc weld through primer before welding them in. I've found the zinc primer welds much better then the copper.


Then got the passenger side tacked in place. Tomorrow I'll weld it out, do the rear outriggers, then start on the rear seat structure that ties both sides together.


My blower is here!! It's a magnesium case billet aluminum rotor mooneyham 14-71 blower. It's twice the size of my 6-71 on the blue coupe and 1/3 the weight.


 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Started on the rear outriggers. Got a mock up seat in place for placement of the rear outriggers to the main hoop. I'll be running Kirkey pro street seats but a stock seat will do for mock up.


Rear outriggers all burned in. And lower seat belt mounts welded in.


Now I've started on the rear seat brace. This will attach both door sills together as well as tie each subframe connector together. I'm also utilizing the rear seat brace as a point to brace the rear lower torque boxes.


All tacked in place. Still need to trim the center for driveshaft clearance.


Making sure this thing is strait as be while welding


And a final pic for now.
 
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