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Discussion Starter #1
Guys what kind of Modifications are all of the high HP guys doing to an 8.8 rearend to get them to hook and to go low in the 60ft besides pulling timing. TY
 

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I’ve been low 1.24-1.26 and a 1.22 with a stock housing with control arms and poly upper bushings. Lol. Might be a miracle but it worked well. This was with single adjustable strange shocks

Now I’m going with all the add ons. Welded axle tubes
TeamZ brace kit
Solid bushings
Lower control arm brackets
Lower bracket brace
Spool.
Coil overs.
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I’ve been low 1.24-1.26 and a 1.22 with a stock housing with control arms and poly upper bushings. Lol. Might be a miracle but it worked well. This was with single adjustable strange shocks

Now I’m going with all the add ons. Welded axle tubes
TeamZ brace kit
Solid bushings
Lower control arm brackets
Lower bracket brace
Spool.
Coil overs.
im making 60ft passes @ 1.27-29 rite now with a beefed up 8.8,DA shocks & aftermarket uppers and lower control arms..im at the point to when i put more fuel to my car i blow the tires off so after that i pull timing out to make a decent pass i dont pick up any ET, im running in 5.70's now i just cant cross that threshold to get around mid 5's..i know turbo/n2o guys are leaving with way more power than me and not blowing the tires off..what kinda set-up do they have on their rearends..seems like its a secret lol
 

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I agree. My combo was about the same. Running 5.70’s. But it had trans issues etc. I feel it was probably a 5.50 combo easily with no drama.

what’s you Ic, and anti squat %?
What car is this on ?
What’s the combo ?
What rear spring ?
what’s the front consist of?
How much power ?
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the rear end is not your problem, you need suspension work
could u explain plz..i have SA coil over struts on the front and DA coil over shocks on the rear thats the only adjustments i have on the rear my thinking is i need some adjustment on the rear for the upper and lower control arms like a 4 link setup to where i have no adjustments on the upper or lowers
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I agree. My combo was about the same. Running 5.70’s. But it had trans issues etc. I feel it was probably a 5.50 combo easily with no drama.

what’s you Ic, and anti squat %?
What car is this on ?
What’s the combo ?
What rear spring ?
what’s the front consist of?
How much power ?
I dont know the IC and anti squat % bc i have no adjustments on the upper and lower control arms they are still in the stock location on my 93 foxbody, combo-582 BBC(1000hp) with 2 sp pg with 4.30 gears..rear spring-130lbs..the front has coil over struts with 325lbs spring on them
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I’ve been low 1.24-1.26 and a 1.22 with a stock housing with control arms and poly upper bushings. Lol. Might be a miracle but it worked well. This was with single adjustable strange shocks

Now I’m going with all the add ons. Welded axle tubes
TeamZ brace kit
Solid bushings
Lower control arm brackets
Lower bracket brace
Spool.
Coil overs.
i see where u have aftermarket lower control arm brackets for some sort of adjustment am i rite?
 

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883 Posts
My car’s previous rear combo was all miss matched. (Bought it when I was younger etc )

It had steeda double adjustable upper control arms- poly bushings
Maximum Motorsports lowers with Delrin bushings.
Stock GT springs.
a TeamZ ARB.
poly bushings in the upper diff housing
strange single rear shocks.
Pinion angle at about -2

All stock mounting locations.

front is tubular k member and arms.
Lakewood 70/30’s with a 150lb 14” coil over spring.

it would be regularly in the high .2x’s and been a bunch of 1.24’s. And a 1.22. 900-975whp combo.

if you have stock control arms and bushings. That’s a problem. Lots of deflection there.

if it’s a race only car. I’d switch to all Heim joint stuff.
you don’t need to throw the kitchen sink for parts at it, but you need some for sure.

*depending on your goals. *
Bare minimum. I would do
Double adjustable lower control arms.
double adjustable upper control arms.
anti roll bar (personally the best item I’ve ever installed).
poly or solid diff bushings.

I try and guide My customers to buy the best they can afford and buy it once. So you aren’t re-doing things.
Racecraft, TRZ and TeamZ are my go to.
You could also do UPR or Wolfe.

All that stuff is bolt on. Once you get after it and wanna fine tune it. Then you can look at diff brackets. Torque box kits etc. (Or for different surface/ prep tune ups).
 

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My newest combination I’m changing the entire drive train and suspension, electrical etc.

I will be changing all the rear to one manufacturers components. And all solid joints. I will be bracing the diff, and doing all the add on brackets etc for multiple mounting locations.

but this has been a long drawn out process. Lol. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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I think you're at the limit's of your current rear suspension. At this point you need to make a commitment to completely going through your rear set up to gain the adjustablity you need. You can't go half way and expect good results. I would look at a set of da fronts as well. Controlling the front plays a large roll in how the over package will work. It sound like its also time to plot the car so you know all the relative info on how the car sits, and then can start to adjust for an AS number that works for your combo. Or, you live with the current 60's and just need to make way more power down track.
 

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Premium Member
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
My car’s previous rear combo was all miss matched. (Bought it when I was younger etc )

It had steeda double adjustable upper control arms- poly bushings
Maximum Motorsports lowers with Delrin bushings.
Stock GT springs.
a TeamZ ARB.
poly bushings in the upper diff housing
strange single rear shocks.
Pinion angle at about -2

All stock mounting locations.

front is tubular k member and arms.
Lakewood 70/30’s with a 150lb 14” coil over spring.

it would be regularly in the high .2x’s and been a bunch of 1.24’s. And a 1.22. 900-975whp combo.

if you have stock control arms and bushings. That’s a problem. Lots of deflection there.

if it’s a race only car. I’d switch to all Heim joint stuff.
you don’t need to throw the kitchen sink for parts at it, but you need some for sure.

*depending on your goals. *
Bare minimum. I would do
Double adjustable lower control arms.
double adjustable upper control arms.
anti roll bar (personally the best item I’ve ever installed).
poly or solid diff bushings.

I try and guide My customers to buy the best they can afford and buy it once. So you aren’t re-doing things.
Racecraft, TRZ and TeamZ are my go to.
You could also do UPR or Wolfe.

All that stuff is bolt on. Once you get after it and wanna fine tune it. Then you can look at diff brackets. Torque box kits etc. (Or for different surface/ prep tune ups).
my upper and lower control arms are aftermarket with heim joints in the ends and a solid aluminum bushing on top of the rearend but they are mounted in the stock location on the car(no adjustments)
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I think you're at the limit's of your current rear suspension. At this point you need to make a commitment to completely going through your rear set up to gain the adjustablity you need. You can't go half way and expect good results. I would look at a set of da fronts as well. Controlling the front plays a large roll in how the over package will work. It sound like its also time to plot the car so you know all the relative info on how the car sits, and then can start to adjust for an AS number that works for your combo. Or, you live with the current 60's and just need to make way more power down track.
ive just ordered this combo kit that should get me my needed adjustment what do think of this
S-BoxCombo
LS Box SnubSnub Nose Lower S-Box 2.0S-BoxSept2017-6SBoxSept2017-6SBoxSept2017-2LS&SBoxSept2017-2SBoxSep t2017-1LS-BoxSept2017-4LS-BoxSept2017-3SBoxSept2017-4
SKU: SBoxCombo
$674.95
The Newest Version “S-BOX 3.0 Combo”—3/16″ thick arm mounting points!! ADJUSTABLE UPPER & LOWER CONTROL ARM MOUNTING POINT REPLACEMENT KIT for Fox & SN95 bodied cars. NOW with 7 adjustment holes in each lower and 5 in each upper side. 3000 hp capable!!! All Lowers are sold in an updated SNUB NOSE version for extra tire clearance when used with Mini Tubs!!!
Click on the thumbnails to the left to enlarge the photos.
See “DETAILS” & ” ADDL. PHOTOS” tabs below for more info
You may also see Install article link below.

ADD TO CART
Categories: Ford, Suspension Parts. Tags: adjustable, chassis, Fox,
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My newest combination I’m changing the entire drive train and suspension, electrical etc.

I will be changing all the rear to one manufacturers components. And all solid joints. I will be bracing the diff, and doing all the add on brackets etc for multiple mounting locations.

but this has been a long drawn out process. Lol. 🤦🏻‍♂️
i know what u mean lol
 

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205 Posts
That’s a very nice kit you bought you should also look into some lower brackets for the rear end an anti-roll bar if you don’t have one and then the front suspension plays just as big a role in the launch as the rear so sa probably won’t be enough get a set of da and some travel limiters because when it does hook up with the power in it, it’s gonna want to wheelie either way good luck should be killer when you get it dialed
 

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ive just ordered this combo kit that should get me my needed adjustment what do think of this
SKU: SBoxCombo
$674.95


ADD TO CART
Categories: Ford, Suspension Parts. Tags: adjustable, chassis, Fox,
Definitely a step in the right direction. All the control arms need to have adjustabilty and should probably be rod ends at this point. If the car has any "roll" at the hit, an ARB might be a good investment at the same time.
 

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78 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
That’s a very nice kit you bought you should also look into some lower brackets for the rear end an anti-roll bar if you don’t have one and then the front suspension plays just as big a role in the launch as the rear so sa probably won’t be enough get a set of da and some travel limiters because when it does hook up with the power in it, it’s gonna want to wheelie either way good luck should be killer when you get it dialed
ty ive heard that foxbodys are nose heavy and rite now itll pick'em up about knee high..i hope that kits gets me the adjustment i need so i can apply all of my power
 
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