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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where is the best spot in valve covers to drill holes for a oil puke tank with breather?

I currently have a baffled hole in the front on one valve cover and one in the back on the other cover with push in breathers installed (so baffled holes are actually on top of the valve cover). Looking to add a remote puke tank, and am wondering if the two holes that are on top with a baffle will work best, or if I should plug them and instead drill a hole in the front of each valve cover, use a baffled fitting like this moroso one

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/22635/10002/-1

or this STAR machine one

http://www.starvacuumpumps.com/products/STR.06.11.001

I want a setup that will work best for venting crankcase pressure while sucking the least amount of oil. My valve covers have been powdercoated, so I want to avoid welding bungs on them if possible, but if that is the only wayt to do it properly, I will have it done
 

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Prob not what your interested in, but I used fuel cell fittings. They aren't baffled but a lot cheaper and most remote cans have a drain.
 

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Oh and I'd say engine front of valve cover I've drilled, tapped and put a fitting in the front of the head on a sbc and each time I've checked it after a drive and a few runs the line out is dry. Still those heads have a really open pushrod area, but the fitting is pretty much flush with the bottom and it's just a standard pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The reason I want it baffled is so that I am not pulling a ton of oil....But then again, I am not sure that with the fittings in the front of the valve covers I will pull a lot of oil.

Also wondering what size is suitable for line...-6? -8? I can't see the lines passing THAT MUCH oil that I would need bigger, but I am not sure
 

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Depends what size the hole in your breather your using is and some remote cans have big clamp on ones like this moroso with a single 10an http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85402/overview/ I plan to make my own, because of the tight area and use an R2C breather I already have so bigger than 8an would be pointless for me because of the small hole in the valve cover style breather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I really don't want to weld on my valve covers as I just had them powdercoated this winter, but I am thinking it is probably best to weld a bung on top of my already baffled breather holes in the top of my valve covers and then run lines to a vented catch can.
 

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Pretty sure Moroso has some bungs that are nutt'd from behind and have nylon washers for either side to make a seal .... those have a tendency to loosen, so getting them tight is crucial

I would definitely have both bungs at the front as the oil travels to the back upon acceleration ... I would make the line sizes a minimum of -8,... -10 or -12 preferred
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
A bulkhead fitting may be a good option
Dylan, the link I posted is for a bulkhead fitting that is baffled so that I am not just sucking a ton of oil. Going to order 2 of them now, along with the other lines and fittings and hopefully plumb it all up by the end of the week if it arrives on time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I likey ......;)
I did some measuring, and it does not look like the Jegs or Moroso fitting will work on my valve covers.

Is it ok to just weld a bung to the front of the valve covers, and then have lines going right to a puke tank?? Or do the bungs need to be baffled to avoid sucking excessive oil?
 

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Not sure if it will work on yours, but I think you have a sbm so the fuel pump area is similar to sbc. I am going to run a single -12 hose from my fuel pump block off to a catch can. I have read of people doing this to evac the block as well and it seemed to work as good as doing the valve covers.


Good luck with it dude.

James
 

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I have mine on the front, like you describe and no baffles..... I have them as close to the top as possible and they pull "very little" oil. In fact, no oil till I make a pass... After 2 runs at 7500 I'll get about 2-3 ounces of oil, normal street driving is just a trace

James, ... fuel blockoff is a good idea also(I have a -10 plumbed into mine) as it maintains an equalized pressure through-out the engine..... but don't omit the V-covers as the evac is there to pull moisture from the system along w the crankase pressure.
 

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GZ has a bolt on breather and oil fill cap that would work
i don't get oil sucking through it, or should say hardly any
have heard that is also a good sign of a sealed motor
also i don't rev past 6k either and i do have oil restricted p-rods with the moroso chrome valve covers (they are called baffled), and a stud girdle
 

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Dylan, the link I posted is for a bulkhead fitting that is baffled so that I am not just sucking a ton of oil. Going to order 2 of them now, along with the other lines and fittings and hopefully plumb it all up by the end of the week if it arrives on time.
I gotta start clicking links lol my bad bro
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not sure if it will work on yours, but I think you have a sbm so the fuel pump area is similar to sbc. I am going to run a single -12 hose from my fuel pump block off to a catch can. I have read of people doing this to evac the block as well and it seemed to work as good as doing the valve covers.


Good luck with it dude.

James
Yes it is an SBM and does have the block off plate. I know some drill into there as a vacuum port, never though of using it for the catch can though. I feel like it would suck too much oil there though? But I am no expert and could be way off

I have mine on the front, like you describe and no baffles..... I have them as close to the top as possible and they pull "very little" oil. In fact, no oil till I make a pass... After 2 runs at 7500 I'll get about 2-3 ounces of oil, normal street driving is just a trace

James, ... fuel blockoff is a good idea also(I have a -10 plumbed into mine) as it maintains an equalized pressure through-out the engine..... but don't omit the V-covers as the evac is there to pull moisture from the system along w the crankase pressure.
Really? I assumed that I NEED to have a baffle behind the bung otherwise the oil has a straight shot into the line and will all end up in the catch can.

So you run V/C breathers, bungs on the front of each valve cover to a puke tank, and a line from the fuel pump block off as well going to a puke tank?

GZ has a bolt on breather and oil fill cap that would work
i don't get oil sucking through it, or should say hardly any
have heard that is also a good sign of a sealed motor
also i don't rev past 6k either and i do have oil restricted p-rods with the moroso chrome valve covers (they are called baffled), and a stud girdle
You mean that hardly any oil sucking through means a good sign of a sealed motor? I have seen the bolt on breathers, might have to look again.

I gotta start clicking links lol my bad bro
No worries bra! I sent you an email!
 

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You mean that hardly any oil sucking through means a good sign of a sealed motor? I have seen the bolt on breathers, might have to look again.
from what i have been told yes, provided you have decent vacuum reading, i get about 12-13 on the gauge, about 3-4 at idle (1000rpm)

or it's you have some great baffling to prevent the oil consumption
i'm running basically the same setup when i had the PCV and the pcv catch can would suck some oil.
since i dont have an open breather (lock on oil cap fills that hole in the VC), and using the GZ pump setup now, i get a very small misting into the pump with my setup. maybe i got lucky????
after running the car all weekend (Street weekend toy car) when i open the catch can, hardly anything comes out, maybe like a very small eye droplet so to speak. since i use clear hose on the pump i can see oil discoloration and fumes venting out the overflow tank
my spark plugs look cleaner too since using the pump setup compared to the PCV setup used last summer

you should discuss your issues with any of the vacuum pump companies and get their professional input.

i've become a fan on vacuum pumps on performance motors now, there are so many benefits, provided you can swing the cost.
 

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Yes it is an SBM and does have the block off plate. I know some drill into there as a vacuum port, never though of using it for the catch can though. I feel like it would suck too much oil there though? But I am no expert and could be way off
I'm no expert either .... ;), all's I can speak for is from what I observe from the results of trial and error from myself and others I've seen doing the like

As far as the block-off plate, I don't think there's as much oil there as you're thinking .... and the negative pressure/vacuum being applied is not like "windage", I think the only way for it to become a windage state is when the pressure in the crankase overcomes the neg pressure being applied by its source




Really? I assumed that I NEED to have a baffle behind the bung otherwise the oil has a straight shot into the line and will all end up in the catch can.

So you run V/C breathers, bungs on the front of each valve cover to a puke tank, and a line from the fuel pump block off as well going to a puke tank?
At this time I do not have baffles, only bungs that are connected to -10 fittings and line going to the c-can.... One V cover is 90'd to a T on the other, having one line available to go to one side of the can... the fuel block-off plate has a line going to the opposite side. I draw neg pressure/vacuum from the top of the can with the exhaust collectors that are T'd into a single line(my vac reading is taken from this T)... All the lines off the engine and can are setup to make the oil go " up-hill " in order to make it past the can, or into it for that matter

I figure if there is little to no windage, then gravity can work in it's favor also, and so far it works very well.

Over this winter I will baffle the V covers because that's where I believe it's coming from at the full passes (2-3 ounces). Being an abundance of oil up top for an extended period without them is asking alot ... hopefully after that, all's I'm pulling is water
 
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