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That's it, I'm pulling the cam
DON'T ... NOT YET !!!!!

Reset the preload in all lifters before doing anything else.

Just be sure that the lifter you are adjusting is on the base circle of the cam lobe.
 

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... well .. yeah ...... I was just throwin' some chum to see if he had anything else to say ...

Got a cam from CC for a lift rule deal that was so crazy he might have ground it. Plotted on a graph the lobes were like you cut the top off of one and the bottom off another and put the two together, like paper dolls. At near mid-lift there was a distinct oblique angle where the two slopes met and the velocity changed. Nuts. It floated at 5000-5500 and their advice was add spring pressure, which reduced the torque nearly a ft. lb. per each lb. of additional seat pressure.

OP, see if you have any cold header pipes.
I've bought four of their 'shelf' cams over the years. Never had any issues. I do have a tool to check the cam's firing order.

So you spec'd a cam from them, and because you got a piece of shit, you think that's a regular occurrence? Don't choke on your own chum, yeti.
 

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I've bought four of their 'shelf' cams over the years. Never had any issues. I do have a tool to check the cam's firing order.

So you spec'd a cam from them, and because you got a piece of shit, you think that's a regular occurrence? Don't choke on your own chum, yeti.
LOL...!!!
 

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pontiaco

I believe you said this is a hydraulic roller? It sounds like a Singer sewing machine in the video. You need to address that. And look at the cam card and see if there is a 47S at the end of the grind number.
 

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OP ask for help with his BBC however he has posted a SBC part number that he is using in his engine? He must have written the wrong part number?


Steve
 

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Originally Posted by yeti
... well .. yeah ...... I was just throwin' some chum to see if he had anything else to say ...

Got a cam from CC for a lift rule deal that was so crazy he might have ground it. Plotted on a graph the lobes were like you cut the top off of one and the bottom off another and put the two together, like paper dolls. At near mid-lift there was a distinct oblique angle where the two slopes met and the velocity changed. Nuts. It floated at 5000-5500 and their advice was add spring pressure, which reduced the torque nearly a ft. lb. per each lb. of additional seat pressure.

OP, see if you have any cold header pipes.
I've bought four of their 'shelf' cams over the years. Never had any issues. I do have a tool to check the cam's firing order.

So you spec'd a cam from them, and because you got a piece of shit, you think that's a regular occurrence? Don't choke on your own chum, yeti.
You really are that stupid, aren't you. I didn't spec anything except the maximum lift and what the cam was for. CC was asked for their best cam for a lift rule and they supplied a cut and paste "custom grind" piece of junk that wouldn't turn over 5500 without severe valve float with 180# on the seat and 380# over the nose with only .480" lift. A monkey could have made a better lobe with a belt sander. Started with their advised installed pressure and when that didn't work added 30# and the engine lost 30 ft.lbs. and the valve float was no better. The lobe had a ramp jump in the middle of the lift. The rate of lift changed suddenly from one 5 deg. increment to the next. It didn't float over the toe, it floated on the way up the ramp. Comp Cams "custom grind" wasted a lot of money and dyno time. Too bad none of this helps the OP.



#7 was cold in the heat gun video. I would just swap 4 and 7 to see if it made it worse or better. No harm no foul if it isn't the problem and easy to do and undo.
 

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You really are that stupid, aren't you. I didn't spec anything except the maximum lift and what the cam was for. CC was asked for their best cam for a lift rule and they supplied a cut and paste "custom grind" piece of junk that wouldn't turn over 5500 without severe valve float with 180# on the seat and 380# over the nose with only .480" lift. A monkey could have made a better lobe with a belt sander. Started with their advised installed pressure and when that didn't work added 30# and the engine lost 30 ft.lbs. and the valve float was no better. The lobe had a ramp jump in the middle of the lift. The rate of lift changed suddenly from one 5 deg. increment to the next. It didn't float over the toe, it floated on the way up the ramp. Comp Cams "custom grind" wasted a lot of money and dyno time. Too bad none of this helps the OP.



#7 was cold in the heat gun video. I would just swap 4 and 7 to see if it made it worse or better. No harm no foul if it isn't the problem and easy to do and undo.
So why didn't you just suggest that in the first place, instead of taking your dick out and stepping all over it?
 

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OP ask for help with his BBC however he has posted a SBC part number that he is using in his engine? He must have written the wrong part number?


Steve
CB XR294HR-10

Comes up as a BBC cam
 

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Just shut the fuck up and quit shitting on the guys thread...
Cupcake --- do I need to explain to you, or better yet -- do you require a picture, colored in crayons, that shows that I'm trying to help the poster where as, you haven't offered any help to him at all.

Just let me know what your favorite crayon colors are !!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Alright guys I pull the motor and take it completely apart found that timing marks were dead on , cam was where it needed to be but the pistons were hitting the valves on every cyl, wtf? I triple check for piston to valve clearance so I don't get it, anyways just got the heads back from machine shop and everything is good , no bend valve or damage valve guides , there were barely touching . here is the other issue I found metal in oil filter and oil pan, more that what I'm comfortable with, but the bearings are super clean, I can't find any trace where the metal is coming from , It's got a scatt crank cast and king bearings, clearance are between specs, but I just can't find where metal might be coming from, push rods are clean.
 
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