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Discussion Starter #1
I kicked a rod out of my stock block 496 last night. I am looking for a real world opinions on some options. My 496 made 810 at the crank with 13.2 compression so I am not going backwards. Looking at Shafroff, Ohio Crank, Nyes and Steve Schmidt short blocks, 540-565. Who has had good results with who? What are you running? My pig is a 3500lb 2nd Gen F Body. Ran 10.1x on the old bullet. May as well step up a little and get my license. I don't run NO2. I have Dart 360 heads, Dart intake and a Howard's roller cam (.730 lift) to throw in there too. What say you?
 

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I'd go with an NFR short block.... I mean, why not?
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I'd go with an NFR short block.... I mean, why not?
Nick, I respect your opinion more than many on here, so talk to me. What are you thinking? I know you can build some bad ass shit but I am not some high dollar guy. I just race the local stuff in the 6.50/6.0 class or 10.50,/9.90 stuff. I am in Ohio. Let me know.
 

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Nick, I respect your opinion more than many on here, so talk to me. What are you thinking? I know you can build some bad ass shit but I am not some high dollar guy. I just race the local stuff in the 6.50/6.0 class or 10.50,/9.90 stuff. I am in Ohio. Let me know.
I'm glad you at least replied! I know geographically with me currently here in Boise isn't exactly ideal but I do think I can help. First off, I do want to try and get one thing straight. What you said above has literally been my biggest struggle going into business for myself. I can't tell you how many people have told me, "I'd like to get and or have my engine rebuilt by you but I don't think I can afford it." I say,"Really, how much am I?" Then everyone say, I don't know which in turn I say, then how do you know you can't afford me. Just because I have made a name for myself building Pro Stock engines doesn't mean I'm expensive. Are you buying a Pro Stock engine? lol NO! If anything my shop rate is cheaper than most just because I don't have as much overhead yet. I've done several Sportsman engines from brackets to whatever and even some circle track stuff. I've even been working for a guy who restores cars and have rebuilt, upgraded and or just restored those engines. Yes, my passion is Pro Stock but my love for the industry is flat out building engines no matter what they are. The only reason why a Pro Stock engine costs more is because there are countless hours involved and the same goes for a Comp Elim. engine.

So tell me what you have or now that it's broke had for a short block combination. Then tell me what would be the ultimate goal and or best case scenario even if it's over your budget. Then we can work from there and get within your budget. I have all the resources with most manufactures which include Dart and Manley. If you would rather email me with everything, that's fine. Even if in the end if I'm not the best fit, at least you gave me a shot at it...

Nick

Nick Ferri Racing
[email protected]
704-838-6275
Instagram: Nick Ferri Racing (ngnbldr)
 

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"Yes, my passion is Pro Stock but my love for the industry is flat out building engines no matter what they are. "(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you Nick. I didn't mean to offend you by stating that you may be out of my budget without asking questions first. The fact that you build high dollar winning engines doesn't mean you can't or won't build bracket race engine for no name people like me.
The current bullet that has now expired was a stock block stroker 496. It had a Molnar crank and rods, Mahle pistons, 13.2 compression. Howards Cam, .730" lift (I can pull the cam card if you need exact specs). Dart 360 heads that were done by the head designer at TEA, fresh set of Trick Flow springs just went in (TFS 16414 springs) with Ferrea valves. He actually built the whole motor. It has a Dart intake with a Gary Williams 950 carb. It made 810hp at the crank. It is in a heavy 2nd Gen Camaro - 3500lbs., with a 4.30 gear in a 9"
I believe it may have hydro locked #5 cylinder but I have not pulled the motor yet. The rod is hanging outside the oil pan though. It let go on the 5th pass after the rebuild at about 1200'. I had 38` of timing with 2` taken out with my digital 6 box. I was just trying to slow it down with timing to run 6.50 for a TNT pass. I was at about 7000 rpms when it let go. I usually go thru the traps at 7200-7400 on a 28x10.5 slick. It usually runs 10.1x at ~131 or 6.4x in the 1/8th.
I may as well step up a little and put it in the 9's so I am thinking a similar set up with more cubics inches will get me there. The 360 heads should easily support a 540-565cu in. motor. Car has a 10 point chromoly cage that certed to 8.50. Let me know your thoughts, if you need more or specific information, just let me know. Thank you for you thoughts and what you offer to this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nick, can you build me a 3000+ hp engine for my dragster? I'm on a budget though, so I can't afford much more than $2500, and need to make payments.....
Not to get in a pissing match but this has nothing to do with my comment. I did not and was not referring to anyone building me a decent short block that will help meet my goals for a stupid cheap price. Refer to the ones I was looking at. None of them are near that price range nor was I asking them to be......
 

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Not to get in a pissing match but this has nothing to do with my comment. I did not and was not referring to anyone building me a decent short block that will help meet my goals for a stupid cheap price. Refer to the ones I was looking at. None of them are near that price range nor was I asking them to be......

Dude, don't get your panties in a wad...I was joking with Nick about the part of his comment regarding other people saying crap like that to him.... not directed at you.....lighten up....
 

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Thank you Nick. I didn't mean to offend you by stating that you may be out of my budget without asking questions first. The fact that you build high dollar winning engines doesn't mean you can't or won't build bracket race engine for no name people like me.
The current bullet that has now expired was a stock block stroker 496. It had a Molnar crank and rods, Mahle pistons, 13.2 compression. Howards Cam, .730" lift (I can pull the cam card if you need exact specs). Dart 360 heads that were done by the head designer at TEA, fresh set of Trick Flow springs just went in (TFS 16414 springs) with Ferrea valves. He actually built the whole motor. It has a Dart intake with a Gary Williams 950 carb. It made 810hp at the crank. It is in a heavy 2nd Gen Camaro - 3500lbs., with a 4.30 gear in a 9"
I believe it may have hydro locked #5 cylinder but I have not pulled the motor yet. The rod is hanging outside the oil pan though. It let go on the 5th pass after the rebuild at about 1200'. I had 38` of timing with 2` taken out with my digital 6 box. I was just trying to slow it down with timing to run 6.50 for a TNT pass. I was at about 7000 rpms when it let go. I usually go thru the traps at 7200-7400 on a 28x10.5 slick. It usually runs 10.1x at ~131 or 6.4x in the 1/8th.
I may as well step up a little and put it in the 9's so I am thinking a similar set up with more cubics inches will get me there. The 360 heads should easily support a 540-565cu in. motor. Car has a 10 point chromoly cage that certed to 8.50. Let me know your thoughts, if you need more or specific information, just let me know. Thank you for you thoughts and what you offer to this forum.
An87442, believe me I didn't take any offence to you budget comment. I know exactly what you meant when you said it so again, absolutely no offense taken. I think what you listed above is fine and to replace everything and even upgrade it all is all very durable. FinnishFireball actually has a great suggestion with his comment about Dart/World. They are now selling short blocks to fit certain applications. Lucky for me I am a Dart dealer! So I would suggest getting me as much cylinder head information that you can. Then what I will do is reach out to my contact at Dart and pretty much list all the above information that you have already given me. I would also like to know more about the drive train in your car. Two speed or three? What does the converter stall at? Trans brake or not and so forth. Don't think you are boring me because there is really no such thing as too much information when building an engine. How big are the headers and collectors? Again, if it pertains to the engine which pretty much the entire car does, then list it. What I would do is generate a spread sheet with all that information above and the stuff I requested and more if you can think of it and email me your list. Also, what fuel do you run or are also willing to run? I can compare Dart's short block with just getting a block and buying a rotating assembly as well. I feel that you have a lot of options with none of them breaking the bank. The only catch is if you go through with this, you then have to buy a Pro Stock engine. HaHa!

Nick
 
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Nick, can you build me a 3000+ hp engine for my dragster? I'm on a budget though, so I can't afford much more than $2500, and need to make payments.....
Yes I can! I'll charge you $2500 for exactly what you asked for. You make a payment of $10 a month with an interest rate of 1000% compounded daily. I have no idea what the math comes out to be but I'm guessing I'll be okay in the end. Unfortunately, the end will probably be past my lifetime. lol

Not to get in a pissing match but this has nothing to do with my comment. I did not and was not referring to anyone building me a decent short block that will help meet my goals for a stupid cheap price. Refer to the ones I was looking at. None of them are near that price range nor was I asking them to be......
Dude, don't get your panties in a wad...I was joking with Nick about the part of his comment regarding other people saying crap like that to him.... not directed at you.....lighten up....
Like Mark said, he in no way was trying to derail the thread at all. It was merely a jab at my struggles with doing this on my own. People truly do feel like what they have will be below me and cost a fortune. I look at things the opposite way and tell people. If I do your engines, your going to get a fair competitive price and the plus side is. You also get the 20+ years of experience in doing Pro Stock engines applied into building yours. There are a lot of what I would say are, more engine assemblers out there than actual builders, there is a difference. I could call Jegs and or Summit today and order every part I need to put an engine together and it will run but that's an assembler for the most part. Knowing the tricks of the trade that most people don't and will never know it what separates the two.

Nick
 
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Discussion Starter #14
An87442, believe me I didn't take any offence to you budget comment. I know exactly what you meant when you said it so again, absolutely no offense taken. I think what you listed above is fine and to replace everything and even upgrade it all is all very durable. FinnishFireball actually has a great suggestion with his comment about Dart/World. They are now selling short blocks to fit certain applications. Lucky for me I am a Dart dealer! So I would suggest getting me as much cylinder head information that you can. Then what I will do is reach out to my contact at Dart and pretty much list all the above information that you have already given me. I would also like to know more about the drive train in your car. Two speed or three? What does the converter stall at? Trans brake or not and so forth. Don't think you are boring me because there is really no such thing as too much information when building an engine. How big are the headers and collectors? Again, if it pertains to the engine which pretty much the entire car does, then list it. What I would do is generate a spread sheet with all that information above and the stuff I requested and more if you can think of it and email me your list. Also, what fuel do you run or are also willing to run? I can compare Dart's short block with just getting a block and buying a rotating assembly as well. I feel that you have a lot of options with none of them breaking the bank. The only catch is if you go through with this, you then have to buy a Pro Stock engine. HaHa!

Nick
The 360 heads have 1.88 exhaust and 2.30 intake Ferrea valves. Trick Flow 16414 springs. Longer than stock BBC length pushrods (Ron will get me the length). They are old 360's from about 10years ago or so. Ron said he thinks they have 115cc chambers. Part# on the head looks like 1-014-2. Below that is E277N 0142R. Whatever is between the N and 0 can't be read because the push rod hole is drilled right there. Dart PN 454 girdles. Comp Cam steel roller rockers and Comp Cam push rod guides with BAM bushed lifers. Heads were massaged and flowed a little over 400cfm
The cam is a Howards roller. Intake .765 - 301 duration. Exhaust .714 - 304 duration lashed at .022 hot. Lobe center 110, intake center line is 106. It is not a 4/7 swap cam. Do you offer a TB cam..LOL (A 1Gary Special offering if you remember him before he passed away)
Tranny is a 3spd TH350. Ultimate converter - believe it is spragless. Stalled at 5800rpms. I leave on a TB usually at 4600-5000rpms.
Headers are Hedman ceramic coated - 2" OD primary, 4" collector. I run a 3" straight exhaust through Flowmaster muffler super series 40 mufflers
I run 110 fuel and would prefer to stick with 110 as I run that in my Grand National too.
Fuel system is an Aeromotive A1000 pump. -8 lines to supply and return. Return style Aeromotive regulator at 6.5psi. -6 to the carb. This is on a stock sumped fuel tank thst is vented.
Ignition is all MSD, Digital 6 box and billet distributor with a bronze gear and 8.5mm wires.
Oil pump is a standard Melling M-77. Oil Pan is a Hamburger 8 quart. Currently with a hole in it....LOL
Manual brakes, disc all around and manual steering. I have a CVR 55GPM electric water pump and single electric fan. Crank pulley is a 6-1/2" billet specialties with and ATI Super Damper Part# ATI917060. I run an alternator. Head gaskets are Fel Pro MLS .039" compressed.. Mahle Piston# 929906710 - 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm file fit rings. They were gapped for a 150-200 shot just in case I ever wanted to spray it to a mid to low 9 sec. pass.

If I missed anything just let me know. I don't have your email address so it is all right here. Oh and I'd be rather proud, and the only one, at my local tracks to be sporting a Nick Ferri Pro Stock motor. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dude, don't get your panties in a wad...I was joking with Nick about the part of his comment regarding other people saying crap like that to him.... not directed at you.....lighten up....
Panties aren't in a wad, I wear tighty whities😃. But yes I took it as directed to me, like I wanted a reliable, quality motor at a Skip White price. That is not me. I do believe you get what you pay for. And yes there a lot of people that want the high end parts at penny's on the dollar and then they want to devalue the time and labor in it to put it together. I beleive in paying a fair price for a reputable product. Just look at the list I provided Nick. I am not cheap but I don't have deep pockets either. As Nick said there are engine builders and engine assemblers. I can and have assemled motors but I am not an engine builder. On a daily driver or restore then I am fine. But if I want a performace motor with critical tolerances and the necessities to offer that, then I will pay someone much more experienced than me. So if my reply to you seemed out of line then I apologize, but yes I thought you wanted me to have Nick do work for me at a less than reasonable rate.
 

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The 360 heads have 1.88 exhaust and 2.30 intake Ferrea valves. Trick Flow 16414 springs. Longer than stock BBC length pushrods (Ron will get me the length). They are old 360's from about 10years ago or so. Ron said he thinks they have 115cc chambers. Part# on the head looks like 1-014-2. Below that is E277N 0142R. Whatever is between the N and 0 can't be read because the push rod hole is drilled right there. Dart PN 454 girdles. Comp Cam steel roller rockers and Comp Cam push rod guides with BAM bushed lifers. Heads were massaged and flowed a little over 400cfm
The cam is a Howards roller. Intake .765 - 301 duration. Exhaust .714 - 304 duration lashed at .022 hot. Lobe center 110, intake center line is 106. It is not a 4/7 swap cam. Do you offer a TB cam..LOL (A 1Gary Special offering if you remember him before he passed away)
Tranny is a 3spd TH350. Ultimate converter - believe it is spragless. Stalled at 5800rpms. I leave on a TB usually at 4600-5000rpms.
Headers are Hedman ceramic coated - 2" OD primary, 4" collector. I run a 3" straight exhaust through Flowmaster muffler super series 40 mufflers
I run 110 fuel and would prefer to stick with 110 as I run that in my Grand National too.
Fuel system is an Aeromotive A1000 pump. -8 lines to supply and return. Return style Aeromotive regulator at 6.5psi. -6 to the carb. This is on a stock sumped fuel tank thst is vented.
Ignition is all MSD, Digital 6 box and billet distributor with a bronze gear and 8.5mm wires.
Oil pump is a standard Melling M-77. Oil Pan is a Hamburger 8 quart. Currently with a hole in it....LOL
Manual brakes, disc all around and manual steering. I have a CVR 55GPM electric water pump and single electric fan. Crank pulley is a 6-1/2" billet specialties with and ATI Super Damper Part# ATI917060. I run an alternator. Head gaskets are Fel Pro MLS .039" compressed.. Mahle Piston# 929906710 - 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm file fit rings. They were gapped for a 150-200 shot just in case I ever wanted to spray it to a mid to low 9 sec. pass.

If I missed anything just let me know. I don't have your email address so it is all right here. Oh and I'd be rather proud, and the only one, at my local tracks to be sporting a Nick Ferri Pro Stock motor. :cool:
Perfect and I think that just about covers it all... Let me do some homework and I will get back with you. I thought I put my contact information on my original reply but if I didn't, here it is.

Nick Ferri Racing
[email protected]
704-838-6275 cell
 

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I kicked a rod out of my stock block 496 last night. I am looking for a real world opinions on some options. My 496 made 810 at the crank with 13.2 compression so I am not going backwards. Looking at Shafroff, Ohio Crank, Nyes and Steve Schmidt short blocks, 540-565. Who has had good results with who? What are you running? My pig is a 3500lb 2nd Gen F Body. Ran 10.1x on the old bullet. May as well step up a little and get my license. I don't run NO2. I have Dart 360 heads, Dart intake and a Howard's roller cam (.730 lift) to throw in there too. What say you?
There is no way you made 810hp at the crank and only went 10.1 @ 3500 pounds. Well, maybe with 2.42 gears and 145+ mph out the back door! Lots of ET/MPH calculators on the Internet, check them out. Timeslips don't lie.

Sorry, maybe I mispoke. If that engine was dynoed at sea level and you race at Brandimere that may make sense...............
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Perfect and I think that just about covers it all... Let me do some homework and I will get back with you. I thought I put my contact information on my original reply but if I didn't, here it is.

Nick Ferri Racing
[email protected]
704-838-6275 cell
Thanks Nick, I'll wait to hear from you. I looked in your first email signature for an email address. You had put it in the 2nd reply. so I missed it. Oh and just to mention, I have steel rods, not to aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
There is no way you made 810hp at the crank and only went 10.1 @ 3500 pounds. Well, maybe with 2.42 gears and 145+ mph out the back door! Lots of ET/MPH calculators on the Internet, check them out. Timeslips don't lie.

Sorry, maybe I mispoke. If that engine was dynoed at sea level and you race at Brandimere that may make sense...............
I am familiar with theoretical Wallace Racing Calculators. I guess my dyno sheet lied but I am pretty sure at 6900 it says 810.6hp.....
96330
 

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I am familiar with theoretical Wallace Racing Calculators. I guess my dyno sheet lied but I am pretty sure at 6900 it says 810.6hp.....
View attachment 96330
And you believe it? What altitude do you race at and what altitude was the engine dynoed at? Their fuel consumption can't be right either. Only 164 lbs/hr for 810hp? Don't matter to me, but if you actually put an engine in there that makes over 800hp you will be going low 9's, have a license and legit car? ;)
 
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