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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
The engine and radiator are both in OEM location. Engine is not high. 4 gallons in and level still goes to bottom of tank when turn electric pump on, with no thermostat or restrictor plate. Comes back up to top of tank when turn off pump. Radiator is wide albumin 2 row. Just curious.
All I can say is I'm not sure with the info I have. It could be that there is an air pocket trapped and when you turn on the pump, the air pocket gets pressurized and reduces in volume. Then when you turn the pump off, the pressure drops again, the air pocket expands and pushes the water back into the radiator.

I'd run the pump, fill the radiator, then put the radiator cap on. There would still be air trapped but when the engine heats up and the pump is running it should purge the air out into the radiator and when the engine gets hot enough the system pressure will force the air out into the reservoir.
 

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Here's something I've always wondered. What's the effect of stacking coolers (trans/oil/intercooler/radiator condenser) in front of the radiator on a street car?

On the LSA powered 96 Impala SS I am building I'll be running a fairly large trans cooler, an oil cooler, AC condenser and air to water heat exchanger for the blower. I've mounted trans/oil coolers away from the fans before in high air flow areas but I know to be most effective they should be mounted right against the radiator to take advantage of the fans. I assume the same would be true for the heat exchanger, but I worried about having so much in front of the radiator. How much is too much to have running right against the radiator though? What kind of spacing should I have between the trans/oil coolers, AC condenser and heat exchanger?
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Here's something I've always wondered. What's the effect of stacking coolers (trans/oil/intercooler/radiator condenser) in front of the radiator on a street car?

On the LSA powered 96 Impala SS I am building I'll be running a fairly large trans cooler, an oil cooler, AC condenser and air to water heat exchanger for the blower. I've mounted trans/oil coolers away from the fans before in high air flow areas but I know to be most effective they should be mounted right against the radiator to take advantage of the fans. I assume the same would be true for the heat exchanger, but I worried about having so much in front of the radiator. How much is too much to have running right against the radiator though? What kind of spacing should I have between the trans/oil coolers, AC condenser and heat exchanger?
What are your intentions with the car? If it's cruising and drag racing, then it's not too hard. Your car is similar to mine except you have the air conditioning condenser and I don't have a oil cooler.

The answer I have will be long with a lot of information based on 10 year of observing and collecting data. To give you a good, in depth answer I will have to work on it for a few days when I have time. Hopefully I will remember to finish it no later than this weekend. The answer will talk about having lots of fans and what heat transfer loads will be and when since they change depending on what you are doing with the car.
 

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The engine and radiator are both in OEM location. Engine is not high. 4 gallons in and level still goes to bottom of tank when turn electric pump on, with no thermostat or restrictor plate. Comes back up to top of tank when turn off pump. Radiator is wide albumin 2 row. Just curious.
Fill it with the pump on, let it circulate for a minute or two and put the cap on it while the pump is on. Empty your puke tank before the first warm up.
 

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Aluminum radiator core design...any thoughts on the size of the tubes in the core. I'm ready to order an upgrade radiator today and am leaning towards Be Cool due to good reviews and impressive tech support. They claim 2-1 inch tubes is the best. Griffin, Dewitts etc vouch for 2-1.25 tubes and a little thicker overall core. The multiple .5 inch tubes don't make sense to me and I suspect they are Chinese.
 

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If you have room for sufficient width and height, then I think two 1" tubes is best. If you're height and/or width limited, then you have only one other dimension to grow. Another thing to think about is single pass or multi-pass.
 

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If you have room for sufficient width and height, then I think two 1" tubes is best. If you're height and/or width limited, then you have only one other dimension to grow. Another thing to think about is single pass or multi-pass.
I cut and hacked room for a 31x19. I had a 26x19 2 row x 1.25 tube before.
From what I've gathered multi-pass shines in mechanical water pump high rpm programs like dirt track and off road trucks.
I have an electric water pump pro street setup that gets hot at cruise mostly.
 

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I cut and hacked room for a 31x19. I had a 26x19 2 row x 1.25 tube before.
From what I've gathered multi-pass shines in mechanical water pump high rpm programs like dirt track and off road trucks.
I have an electric water pump pro street setup that gets hot at cruise mostly.
What does your spark timing look like at cruise? Delayed spark advance at idle and part throttle can cause an overheating issue.
 

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I cut and hacked room for a 31x19. I had a 26x19 2 row x 1.25 tube before.
From what I've gathered multi-pass shines in mechanical water pump high rpm programs like dirt track and off road trucks.
I have an electric water pump pro street setup that gets hot at cruise mostly.
What does the electrical side consist of --

12 or 16 volt battery?
what amperage does the alternator output at engine idle speeds?
is the elec fan pulling air through the rad?
what kind of fan are you running?
is it in a shroud?
 

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What does the electrical side consist of --

12 or 16 volt battery?
what amperage does the alternator output at engine idle speeds?
is the elec fan pulling air through the rad?
what kind of fan are you running?
is it in a shroud?
12 volt but marginal alternator. I'm stepping that up and going to power the water pump directly of the alternator like the fan. Its a massive 16 inch puller with a shroud. With the new wider radiator I can do dual fans but im pretty sure this setup will cure it even with some of the core uncovered by the shroud.
 

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12 volt but marginal alternator. I'm stepping that up and going to power the water pump directly of the alternator like the fan. Its a massive 16 inch puller with a shroud. With the new wider radiator I can do dual fans but im pretty sure this setup will cure it even with some of the core uncovered by the shroud.
If your alternator is marginal now, that is not ideal. If you have access to a "clamp-on" style current meter, I recommend you use it to measure exactly what the alternator is outputting at engine idle speed, with all electrical components on.



A safe range of output amperage, at engine idle speed, is 80 to 120 amps. This should cover a single fan application. If you go to dual fans, you'd want to go to the higher output range to ensure all electrical components are happy. An under-voltage condition is just as bad as an over-voltage condition.
 

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The engine and radiator are both in OEM location. Engine is not high. 4 gallons in and level still goes to bottom of tank when turn electric pump on, with no thermostat or restrictor plate. Comes back up to top of tank when turn off pump. Radiator is wide albumin 2 row. Just curious.
Fill with electric water pump no t-stat
1) Fill the radiator to the top
2) Turn pump on
3) Fill rad to the top
4) Let pump run for 10 minutes (you do not need to start the engine unless you have a T-stat.
5) Fill rad to the top
6) Install rad-cap
7) turn water pump off (never take the rad-cap off unless the water pump is on)
You will not get a accurate water level in your system unless the water pump is running, electric or belt driven.

If you run a thermostat drill two 1/8" holes in the flange of the thermostat. This will help the air in the engine escape while filling when cold.
 

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Monte Carlo guy has a big block with headers stuffed into a spot where a small block lived, IIRC. One thing the BBC with headers does is block airflow through the engine compartment where it once could flow freely. The low pressure area a the base of the firewall between the body and the ground is a designed flow path for cooling system air.
My Sunbeam Tiger has this issue. Nowhere for the air to go once it is in the engine compartment. Hood is louvered, but that is minimal. I have seen the Tigers are used in racing with the hoods propped open. I am going to try that soon.

Any thoughts on adding an oil cooler? The car has a 10 qt sump and a remote filter now.
 

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Been reading all the posts here and never imagined all the factors affecting cooling.
I am a newbe on the site but seems I am not alone when it comes to cooling issues.

Running a Ford Dart Iron Eagle and having some temperature issues running in 90 degree temps
When just cruising. It is installed in a 93 Mustang with and air dam to direct airflow upwards
Into radiator.

Engine is a 427 cubic inches with a vortech blower and AFR 220 heads. Running a Holley HP efi.
Engine dynoded at 780hp on engine dyno. Ignition was set by engine builder so I don’t think
Ignition is issue.

Cooling is a 3 core aluminum radiator with twin Derale fans and using their shroud.
Running 80/20 anti- freeze mix
With no thermostat. Edlebrock water pump just changed no difference.
Was running a 160 degree stat, took it out and saw no difference. Brought fans in early
On temperature with controller no difference.
Car has no heater (water to air intercooler now in this space). Bypass routed back to pump
But I will check lower hose for collapse Thanks for that info.

Seems ok for a while but after it seems to get heat soaked it will go between 200 and 210. Doesn’t
Seem to get any hotter but makes me very nervous. Gauge is mechanical but agrees with the Holley
Datalogs so I don’t think there is an instrumentation issue.

If I let it idle it will come down to about 190 and stay there.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #117
My Sunbeam Tiger has this issue. Nowhere for the air to go once it is in the engine compartment. Hood is louvered, but that is minimal. I have seen the Tigers are used in racing with the hoods propped open. I am going to try that soon.

Any thoughts on adding an oil cooler? The car has a 10 qt sump and a remote filter now.
I would add a oil temperature gauge first especially with that large a sump. You can have a lot more problems with oil never reaching a good temperature (190-200 minimum) then if your engine runs 200-210. My 8 quart capacity engine takes a long time to reach 200.

If you don't have a oil temp gauge to confirm the temperature, I would first recommend seeing if you can't get a better, more powerful fan or adding a pusher fan. I have a full engine compartment (though not as bad as yours) and don't have and problems with just the Contour fan setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Topfun thanks for the information! I do not have an oil temp gauge. Sounds like I need to get one!
I've learned a lot about oil temperatures since installing my gauge. With a 8 quart sump, it's surprising how long it takes for the oil to get up to 200 deg F. I've noticed once it warms up, the oil temp tends to stay close to the water temp during most stop and go driving. However, driving long stretches on the highway the oil temp will reach as high as 250-270 deg F.

I also noticed the oil temp goes higher as the oil ages. When I was running Amsoil, it would level out at 250ish. After a few thousand miles it would go as high as 270ish.
 

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Go to strewert water pumps web page. There tech section has all the info you would ever need about cooling. There the best mech water pumps in the biz.
 
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