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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys, let me say right up front that I'm no whiz at steering geometry, so please bear with this question. My '69 Torino has 16" between the pivot point for the tie rods, and 18.5" between the pivot point of the lower control arms. Isn't this a poor set-up? I am putting a Chevy Corsica power steering rack on it because that type of rack makes it easy to change the spacing of the tie rods to suit and am curious if I should change the spacing to match the contol arms. Am I missing anything important here? Many thanks for your thoughts!!
 

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Those old Torinos, Mustangs, Mavericks and stuff have big bump steer issues. Just like the old Novas do. Reduce the travel is all I know to do if you use stock suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
how close are the inner tie rod pivots on the rack to the control arm pivot points? may be able to correct it with the rack.
I'm using the rack specifically because I can change the location of the pivot points. This type of GM rack is completely different than any other rack I've seen, the rack drives both inner rods from a plate in the center of the rack. So if I build a new center plate (easy) I can space the tie rods at any distance I want. My noob question is : Is matching the lower control arm center to center distance my only goal here? Are there other considerations for handling I should be aware of?? I understand caster, camber, and toe, but some of the more advanced suspension theories and practices are beyond me at the moment. Thanks for the replies and any help!
 

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if you draw an imaginary line between the pivot points for the upper and lower control arms vertically your inner tie rod pivots should be in within that line. you also want to have your tie rods parrallel with the lower control arms.
 

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Street car?

Don't be surprised if the car drives like a pos if all you change is the bump steer. There is so much camber change on those old cars that the factory put in the bump steer so the car will go strait down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if you draw an imaginary line between the pivot points for the upper and lower control arms vertically your inner tie rod pivots should be in within that line. you also want to have your tie rods parrallel with the lower control arms.
If I draw a line between the upper and lower arm pivot points, the tie rods pivots are about 1 1/4 to the inside of that line. This is how the car was made, with all factory stuff. The tie rods are pretty close to parallel to the lower control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Street car?

Don't be surprised if the car drives like a pos if all you change is the bump steer. There is so much camber change on those old cars that the factory put in the bump steer so the car will go strait down the road.
THIS is exactly what I was afraid of! I couldn't believe that the factory made it this way without a reason. I am not planning on throwing out the whole front suspension for an expensive aftermarket setup, at least not yet. So, is the bottom line that I put the rack in and set the tie rods to the same inner pivot point to maintain all the factory relationships, or is there room for improvement without throwing everything away and starting over???
 

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if you want to go to the effort you can change ball joint locations it can be improved but remember that was a bias tire car it was shit from word go. Its been done in the old stock car days
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if you want to go to the effort you can change ball joint locations it can be improved but remember that was a bias tire car it was shit from word go. Its been done in the old stock car days
It is my understanding that some of the expensive aftermarket stuff moves the location of the ball joint. I looked at doing the Shelby A-arm drop, but it put the bolt holes right smack on an overlapping seam which I didn't like....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The car is 98% for the street, with some weekend drag racing thrown in. I am not even going to try to make the car handle like a Corvette, but I'd like to get what I can out of it..
 

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Honestly unless you are going to re-engineer it, just put it factory. There is much more going on in a front suspension than just camber caster, and toe.
Is factory setup ideal? Not even close, but it does work.
 

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If your going to set it up for corners the car will be pretty stiff and the bump steer will not be as great
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Honestly unless you are going to re-engineer it, just put it factory. There is much more going on in a front suspension than just camber caster, and toe.
Is factory setup ideal? Not even close, but it does work.
How about the "Shelby" 1" drop of the upper arm? I wasn't going to do that, should I reconsider, FWIW?
 
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