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Discussion Starter #1
I am just wondering what every ones thought are on ARP Moly Lube getting on the bearing?
What kind of damage could happen?
Just a crazy Question!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
O- I am not worried just looking for opinions is all! :)
 

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I wipe up the excess with a lint free rag. other then that not much to worry about.
 

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I'm pretty sure ARP claims that it can be used as an assembly lube.
 

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If you take a dab of the ARP moly and rub it between your fingers you will feel a grit. Also take a piece of clean clear lexan and rub a dap of ARP moly on it. It will scratch it like fine sandpaper. I personally hate any type of grit in my new builds no matter how small. When I use the ARP moly I make sure after final assembly any excess is cleaned off. There is actually much better lube to use.


Keith
 

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CMD Extreme pressure lube for everything. :D Actually a lot of data sheets lately on rods and other fasteners have been suggesting to use the CMD stuff instead of the ARP lube... I've been using it on pretty much everything for about the last couple years... not cheap though.
 

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CMD Extreme pressure lube for everything. :D Actually a lot of data sheets lately on rods and other fasteners have been suggesting to use the CMD stuff instead of the ARP lube... I've been using it on pretty much everything for about the last couple years... not cheap though.
How do the torque specifications compare between the two lubricants, on a fastener that stretch can't be measured?
 

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I can't answer that. I haven't done a back to back to see what the difference is on a head stud for instance, between ARP and CMD. I don't use it on a fastener that's spec'd to be torqued with 30 weight oil, I use 30 weight oil. If the block was honed with ARP lube on the threads, I use ARP lube.

It needs to be used on the fasteners during the machining processes, and you then duplicate it in your processes off the machine, otherwise you're asking for trouble.
 

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some use peanut butter ( from catapillar) on threads, but never on bearing surfaces.

I usually use arp black moly on threads and bearings.
and on lifter bores/ roller wheels-needles
but never on a crank or dampener SEAL.
 

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I use the ARP lube on fasteners. One of teh reasons for cycling fasteners a few times is to burnish/polish the threads fro smoother tightening. I suspect that the tiny amount of grittiness in ARP lube may actually help with this.

On parts that will lubricated by oil I assemble with oil. Not a big fan of all the various potions and elixers. If the engine is gonna be sitting for a while I'd spin the pump before starting it.

As long as some kind of lubricant is used I suspect that anything will be OK. On some subjects the process is more important than is the actual method.
 

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ARP now has another or changed their bolt lube and also the way you torque.

Called ARP ultra torque................ fastener torque lube
 

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some use peanut butter ( from catapillar) on threads, but never on bearing surfaces.

I usually use arp black moly on threads and bearings.
and on lifter bores/ roller wheels-needles
but never on a crank or dampener SEAL.
i was aondering how the torque compared with it. I have never tested it on a 3/8 bolt, but i was usung it on head bolts that went to 1200 ft lbs an rocker crabs that where 650. its alot thicker than arp molly. they also have some stufffor bearings. I know TAF and TAD teams use the peanut butter
 

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CMD Extreme pressure lube for everything. :D Actually a lot of data sheets lately on rods and other fasteners have been suggesting to use the CMD stuff instead of the ARP lube... I've been using it on pretty much everything for about the last couple years... not cheap though.
X2, this stuff is the best!

I just got a big tube of it from Jesel.
 

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I use the ARP lube on fasteners. One of teh reasons for cycling fasteners a few times is to burnish/polish the threads fro smoother tightening. I suspect that the tiny amount of grittiness in ARP lube may actually help with this.

On parts that will lubricated by oil I assemble with oil. Not a big fan of all the various potions and elixers. If the engine is gonna be sitting for a while I'd spin the pump before starting it.

As long as some kind of lubricant is used I suspect that anything will be OK. On some subjects the process is more important than is the actual method.
X2 on this.

I like CMD Extreme Pressure Lube but it's a pain in the ass to buy in any quantity compared to ARP Moly Lube and to date I have N-E-V-E-R had any issues related to using ARP Moly Lube or any indications of premature wear, etc. either. The whole deal is to use only what is needed and don't drown the engine with the stuff when you assemble it.

The Detroit Diesel "peanut butter" is an excellent lubricant too, but same problem as with CMD - It's expensive and more of a pain in the ass to get ahold of.
 

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I haven't done a back to back to see what the difference is on a head stud for instance, between ARP and CMD.
I have.

For those that actually have a stretch gauge and use it usually find they have to pull more than recommended to get the desired stretch when using ARP lube. It's usually not a lot more but more none the less and more often than not. With CMD lube, the desired stretch is pretty spot on with what is recommended and at the recommended torque spec.

On head studs, I fought for a while trying to keep heads sealed without going absolutely nuts with the torque. I switched from ARP to CMD and used the same about of torque. I couldn't measure the actual clamping force but the results spoke for themselves. On main studs, I could measure the amount of distortion in the bearings at the same torque so I had to adjust accordingly. Same for the rods. It didn't take long before I had adjusted to CMD and quit using ARP lube as a whole. I won't use ARP lube on anything these days.
 

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X2 on this.

I like CMD Extreme Pressure Lube but it's a pain in the ass to buy in any quantity compared to ARP Moly Lube and to date I have N-E-V-E-R had any issues related to using ARP Moly Lube or any indications of premature wear, etc. either. The whole deal is to use only what is needed and don't drown the engine with the stuff when you assemble it.
I don't know what's deemed "expensive". I buy this stuff (big tubes) at half a dozen at a time from Kurt Urban.

http://www.kurturbanperformance.com/assembly-lube.html
 
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