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Discussion Starter #1
After having a discussion with some friends about rod bolts recently, looked over my build sheet today and am wondering if I need to pull the motor apart and change the bolts to 2000.

540 cu BBC, N/A, 4.500 x 4.250, 14:1, 615g weisco pistons, Eagle H beam 785g and 6.385 long, lunati 4340 crank.

New motor has not been to the track yet, hoping to be around the 950 hp range, 8000-8500rpm, may end up putting up to a 300 shot on it later.

Have I gone past the limits of these bolts?

Thanks in advance for all responses.
 

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After having a discussion with some friends about rod bolts recently, looked over my build sheet today and am wondering if I need to pull the motor apart and change the bolts to 2000.

540 cu BBC, N/A, 4.500 x 4.250, 14:1, 615g weisco pistons, Eagle H beam 785g and 6.385 long, lunati 4340 crank.

New motor has not been to the track yet, hoping to be around the 950 hp range, 8000-8500rpm, may end up putting up to a 300 shot on it later.

Have I gone past the limits of these bolts?

Thanks in advance for all responses.
Yeah, I think I'd stop right now and change those bolts. It's the rpm and the weight of the recip assy more than the HP. One could calculate out the loads and compare with the bolt ratings, but I don't think it would be in favor of the 8740 bolt. You'll also need to re-check the rod bore on the big end. The 2000 will have more clamping force and might change the shape.
 

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At your desired Horsepower level and then adding the bottle don't waist your time on bolts for these rods. You need to purchase a better quality rod period. The Callies Ultra or an Oliver in a steel or I personally would like to see an aluminum in it GRP.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At your desired Horsepower level and then adding the bottle don't waist your time on bolts for these rods. You need to purchase a better quality rod period. The Callies Ultra or an Oliver in a steel or I personally would like to see an aluminum in it GRP.
The rods are something I questioned and since it will be apart I think I'd feel better if I changed them too.

Don't want to deal with aluminum, I had a painful experience with some.

Thanks for the recommendations, I had someone mention the callies today.

Any experience with Crower rods?
 

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If better rods are in your budget, it would be a nice upgrade but I wouldn't lose a minute of sleep keeping the Eagles, even with your combination.
Crower rods are excellent.
Callies Ultra, Oliver, both excellent rods as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Crower is great.

How does the rod bolt know how much power you're making?
I've seen your posts lol

There's a part of me that want's to forget about this and let it rip.

The rod bolt doesn't know, but the hole in my pocket and my wife will when i ventilate the side of the block.
 

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If better rods are in your budget, it would be a nice upgrade but I wouldn't lose a minute of sleep keeping the Eagles, even with your combination.
Crower rods are excellent.
Callies Ultra, Oliver, both excellent rods as well.

X2!

ARP2000's and let'r rip. If built right... the Eagles will take some serious HP.
 

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I have the Callies Ultra rods and they are very nice. I got mine from the guy in the post right above mine, great guy to deal with.
 

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Why not just run it for a while and change out when you freshen it ... you'll probably be into a rebalance etc. and if going nitrous might need a ring material change anyway.

Just keep the rpm down for a while... (out of the 8000 rpm range)

Likely you will need to consider valve train /spring issues as well at 8500 rpm.

Must have some serious heads for that that cubic inch to work at 8000+ rpm...?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why not just run it for a while and change out when you freshen it ... you'll probably be into a rebalance etc. and if going nitrous might need a ring material change anyway.

Just keep the rpm down for a while... (out of the 8000 rpm range)

Likely you will need to consider valve train /spring issues as well at 8500 rpm.

Must have some serious heads for that that cubic inch to work at 8000+ rpm...?
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, still getting my head around it. Just getting it drivable does come to mind. The problem with that is its been a loooong time and I know my foot will not go easy on the pedal. At minimal the bolts will be changed now that I know.

A few months after this motor was assembled the machinist moved out of state, it's been several years now. The guy that went through the heads valves, springs, port work and flow bench (not the machinist) is who recommended the cam that's in the motor.
 
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