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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

Looking for some input. I'm planning to buy a 16' open trailer to pull my 00 Mustang with my 04 Explorer V8. I have the tow package with a class 3 hitch and brake controller. I'm wondering how it will handle and wanted to see if any of you guys are using an SUV to pull your cars?

I was going to rent a uhaul but they won't rent to anyone using an Explorer. The towing capacity according to Ford is 7200 lbs. so I'm confused.
 

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dont go fast

dont try to stop real fast ..

do not turn

the suspension is not up to par untill overload bags as well as sway bars are installed

if it is "lifted" in any form, including ****** rims / wheels...then you are totally unsafe to begin with

the suv is top heavy...

what do you expect me to say.???
 

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how many safe tows do you want to have

untill you get into a situation that you cannot get out of due to some other stupid fucker on the road....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input Guys. Looks like I'll be switching over to an F series this winter.
 

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I tow with a 1500 Avalanche which is basically a re-bodied Suburban, it has tow package and has a tow rating of 7500lbs. The actual weight of my open trailer with car on it is right at 5200 lbs - handles it great. Would a 2500 truck be safer? Sure, but the moral of the story is that tow ratings are there for a reason and if you stay within them and you are (a) not an idiot and (b) don't drive like one you will be fine.

That's my .o2
 

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I tow with a 1500 Avalanche which is basically a re-bodied Suburban, it has tow package and has a tow rating of 7500lbs. The actual weight of my open trailer with car on it is right at 5200 lbs - handles it great. Would a 2500 truck be safer? Sure, but the moral of the story is that tow ratings are there for a reason and if you stay within them and you are (a) not an idiot and (b) don't drive like one you will be fine.

That's my .o2
That's what your tow rating says. It doesn't say anything about stopping. You will wish you went bigger the first time some dipshit does something stupid in front of you and you need to wow that bitch down in a hurry. And it WILL happen. Its not just about bigger power and stiffer springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's what your tow rating says. It doesn't say anything about stopping. You will wish you went bigger the first time some dipshit does something stupid in front of you and you need to wow that bitch down in a hurry. And it WILL happen. Its not just about bigger power and stiffer springs.
This question is from a total lack of experience but isn't that where the electric trailer brakes come in?
 

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This question is from a total lack of experience but isn't that where the electric trailer brakes come in?
Yes and no. Ideally the tow vehicle should be able to safely stop the rig without trailer brakes in case of an electrical failure. Tailer brakes are more meant to keep the trailer from trying to pass the truck under heavy braking.
 

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I tow with my 99 expedition. Plenty of stopping power as long as I drive smart and dont try stopping on a dime. This was an open trailer with a caprice on it
 

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Big difference between and explorer and an expedition though.
 

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I towed my 16' with my Explorer and never had an issue and it was only a v6 my buddy tows all the time with his 16' with a v8 and has never had an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I towed my 16' with my Explorer and never had an issue and it was only a v6 my buddy tows all the time with his 16' with a v8 and has never had an issue.
Did you or your bud do any mods or was that with the stock suspension?
 

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Ive towed with sketchy vehicles. Exploders will probably do alright towing a honda. I wouldn't tow too much with one
 

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Might be a reason U Haul won't rent to you. . . In general, ask yourself three questions: what is my tow vehicle worth to me, what is my towed car worth to me, what is my life worth to me? The roads are risky enough without compounding it with a marginal setup. If you go with a setup that is too safe, you might find it only just safe enough some day, maybe the first day. 3/4 ton or better, long wheelbase, etc. are good investments.
 

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Hey Guys,

Looking for some input. I'm planning to buy a 16' open trailer to pull my 00 Mustang with my 04 Explorer V8. I have the tow package with a class 3 hitch and brake controller. I'm wondering how it will handle and wanted to see if any of you guys are using an SUV to pull your cars?

I was going to rent a uhaul but they won't rent to anyone using an Explorer. The towing capacity according to Ford is 7200 lbs. so I'm confused.
I use a Mitsubishi SUV

In NZ and Aus [ plus most of Europe ] a smaller tow vehicle is very common.
We see Jap Vans and Aussie utes towing all the time.
The only issue I'd have with a Ford Explorer is fuel consumption.

A lighter trailer helps, preferably open centre vs flat deck.

Try to get a trailer with wheelbase central to the deck, so that the only weight on the hitch is "tongue weight" [ not the weight of the load ]
Over here in NZ "tilt" trailers are the most common type for car haulers.
We load them with the deck "at point of balance" , then move the car forward 3".[ this usually gets the best tongue weight ]
If you can option 4 wheel brakes , do it!

Have a look at your own history in the USA, towing behind cars was very normal years ago.
 

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Yes and no. Ideally the tow vehicle should be able to safely stop the rig without trailer brakes in case of an electrical failure. Tailer brakes are more meant to keep the trailer from trying to pass the truck under heavy braking.
No to prevent the trailer from swapping ends.
It is SUPPOSED to work together!

I tow a 40 ft, triple axle with a Crew Cab Dually 1 ton
24,000 RATED GVW, and that combination WILL stop on a dime!

Your Pal, Gary
 

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I towed my AMX on an open trailer for 1000's of miles behind my old 04 Grand Cherokee with the HO4.7 V8 with not a single problem. I also towed my 25' travel trailer with no problems until I upgraded to an F series this year. If you take your time on the hills and give space it will be fine. Giving space and taking your time should be the rule whenever you're towing it shouldn't matter what your driving! I did use equalizer bars to raises the rear on the jeep a little as I was running 20" SRT wheels.
 

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Did you or your bud do any mods or was that with the stock suspension?
No all stock setup. Car weighed 2700 at the time and my buddies is 2750
 

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We never use "Load Equalizer" hitches or couplers.
You are better off moving the vehicle on the trailer back or forward until there is between 100lbs min -200lbs max on the coupler.

Load your car on the trailer, then use a trolley jack, a piece of wood and a bathroom scale to lift the coupler off the hitch.

Use some rear jack-stands for safety [ with a bit of clearance ]
Move your car to get the ideal weight on the scales

If your trailer has rocker equalizer suspension [ in good cond ] it will tow nice and won't pitch up and down when going over bumps.

This seems to be a dying art in the states, I always see photos of long trailers with the wheels near the rear, and the way car too far forward.
Usually with a crew cab dually that's dragging it's ass.


Years ago I towed a Lotus Cortina all over the country behind a FWD Honda Accord.
The Tandem trailer weighed 880lbs and the race car weighed 1584lbs [ total 2464 lbs which was less than the Honda at 2800 lbs ]
The cops weigh bridged me because it was dragging it's ass in the ground , they were scratching their heads after they weighed it.

It was still dragging it's ass after I unhooked the trailer [ the weight of the toolbox in the trunk made it look overloaded ]
 
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