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Discussion Starter #1
I’m ready to squirt some paint on my car. Well kinda, lol. First off I’m no painter but I’m going to give it a whirl. Tools are in place, where do I start?

There’s no sheetmetal to repair or replace, that part is all new. There are some new fiberglass parts on the car and it was spray bombed black.

I guess sanding the car down is going to be my first step??
 

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if the new sheetmetal is in E-coat and is nice enough to suit you as is...can just be sanded,sealed and painted...same with new fiberglass IF its really nice...if the gelcoat is cobbly and spotted in with spray can shit sand them up real nice with 180-220 and prime...may want to wipe everything down with cleaner before sanding...new sheetmetal isn't typically a problem but I think there can be release agent on fiberglass
 

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The fiberglass is going to need some attention with filler here and there as the quality is less than stellar. The quarters will need some attention as well because the wheel openings were cut apart and stretched. So with that being said, start at one end of the car and work toward the other end?

The car had full quarters installed so I’ll need some filler to work those areas. What’s the best pick of poison today for filler?
 

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I use U-pol Flylite Gold but I'm a tightwad...Rage Ultra is probably as easy sanding as it gets for double the money
 

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We’ve used Rage Gold at the shop for a long time; it’s not cheap but is a quality product. I used it on my car that I painted in 2002 and no shrinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rage gold it will be!! This process will probably take me 3 months to complete because of my funky work schedule. But as I progress and have questions I’ll be in and out of this thread. I’ll post pics for you guys to laugh at along the way.
 

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Some e-coat on panels can be of questionable quality; if it were me for peace of mind I’d DA it all to bare metal, apply a quality epoxy primer immediately(PPG DP90LF as one example), and do one panel at a time. Also make sure to use a spot blaster on all your welds prior to priming. That way you will have a solid base to begin with. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Some e-coat on panels can be of questionable quality; if it were me for peace of mind I’d DA it all to bare metal, apply a quality epoxy primer immediately(PPG DP90LF as one example), and do one panel at a time. Also make sure to use a spot blaster on all your welds prior to priming. That way you will have a solid base to begin with. JMO
Thanks for the solid advice. It’ll be a month before I get started because my job gets in the way of fun time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A few more questions for you guys. How much paint will it take to paint the entire car? 68 nova. And is it ok to use epoxy primer on fiberglass parts?
 

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Depending on color one gallon mixed 1:1 should do it. If its transparent like blue, green you will require more or at least buy more. Cheap paint covers less than good paint which is obvious.
Don't use shit epoxy and yes epoxy over fiberglass is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks jester! White tri coat is what I’m going to use. If i can find a ppg dealer close to me to purchase paint. The only dealer close closed up after 50 yrs. I’ll use ppg epoxy primer to do the job.
 

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If your looking for a Pearl White, I'm pretty sure there is one in Base clear/2 stage--maybe Toyota/lexus? I would steer away from a tri-coat, more steps and more things to go wrong especially as a new painter.
 

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Before purchasing any PPG products, contact YB member NuKidOnDaBlock. He can usually hook you up with PPG stuff at very good prices,..better than you can get on your own.

As far a white 3 stage,...it's not all that hard IMHO. It's way easier than doing 3 stage candy colors, where you put a metallic base down first them apply the really transparent candy color, (tinted clear), on next,..then you clear it. It takes talent and practice to do a candy job without blotchiness and striping.

3 stage pearl white, however,....is done by spraying a solid white base first, (easy step),...and then a transparent pearl white mid coat on next which doesn't tend to blotch much at all. It just gives the solid white base some dazzle. It covers well, and adds the flake to the already white base, then you clear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Before purchasing any PPG products, contact YB member NuKidOnDaBlock. He can usually hook you up with PPG stuff at very good prices,..better than you can get on your own.

As far a white 3 stage,...it's not all that hard IMHO. It's way easier than doing 3 stage candy colors, where you put a metallic base down first them apply the really transparent candy color, (tinted clear), on next,..then you clear it. It takes talent and practice to do a candy job without blotchiness and striping.

3 stage pearl white, however,....is done by spraying a solid white base first, (easy step),...and then a transparent pearl white mid coat on next which doesn't tend to blotch much at all. It just gives the solid white base some dazzle. It covers well, and adds the flake to the already white base, then you clear it.
Very inspiring reply Frank!! I think I’m going to give it a whirl. It’s not like I’m going to sema. :-D
 

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Agreed X2 Pearl white is more forgiving than candy and pay attention to your speed,overlap, and air pressure once you get gun dialed in. Also if you are consistent with mid coat coverage you could paint car disassembled, I've done white diamond pearl this way and no issues. Just something to think about as a new painter.
 
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